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A vise which can be a free stading table vise, carving knife or files (I perfer files), drill bits for eyes and hanges, bits for eye sockets (if you want the eye into the body), saw for lip in the bait and for cutting lips if that's what you want to do, sand paper, paints, sealer, clear coates. More detail This changes.

Dale

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You initial selection is fine.  I would rather have a variable speed control dremel than the engraver.    All sorts of other things you can use .   A good  selection of sharp knives can handle most everything.   I like using the dremel and a handful of various bits for detail work.

Knives pick your poison.  I typically use flex cut as cheap, hold an edge, and find the handle shape comfortable to use.   Really boils down to personal preference usually.  Some like to just make their own carving knives.

If better tools is the goal a Foredom  is generally considered near the top of rotary tools for power carving.  This would be more geared towards doing a lot of carving/detail work.   For quick removal you will want something like the Saburr Tooth Buzz Out wheels and their carbide burrs.  A mix of carbide burs, some Swiss diamond, blue cermacut, and ruby carvers  would really round it out.    

 

 

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Going to get lots of opinions on best bang for the buck knife.  Like I mentioned earlier going to come down what you like and what you value.  Some guys will use a name to validate it being the best bang for the buck then many are all about how cheap it is as being the best.

Flex cut, , Hock,  Helvie, Cape Forge, Warren, Pfeil, Butz..... and plenty others from commercial high run type of knives to guys making small batches of hand made carving knives.   I typically use the Flex cut as they run on sale frequently and easy to get for a good price. Would be hard pressed not to get a good knife in the 20 to 50 buck range.  

I use several Hock plane blades in my Krenov style block planes and am sold on their overall quality of product and wouldn't hesitate to buy their stuff.  Have wanted to try the Cape Forge at some point but run a little more.

Better tools comment prior was in reference to using a dremel engraver.  I use knives mainly and most cranks aren't exactly detailed so they really go quick once you get it down.   For detail carving prefer the rotary tools.  

I only use 4 knives for the most part and after sharpening them well just use a leather strop for the most part after.  I keep the baits I want to work on in small box with a tray up top and two plano boxe beneath it with various cranks or top waters I am working on.   Portable and lets me work while watching TV.  Doing anything in small batches becomes less productive for me so I try to work a series of baits as you get into a groove and know to take x passes on the right, left, bottom, etc.. and easier for me to keep things consistent.

 

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Anthony, I'm probably in the minority here but I much prefer a good flat bench chisel. The lures in my avatar  were made with wood in one hand, chisel in other, then few strokes with a file, does take practice and is a bit dangerous, a good idea when hand carving is a kevlar chain mail filleting glove. I actually have one and keep promising myself to use it for hand carving ! Might be best to go carving knife route though if you don't fancy using and sharpening chisel....glider

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I too used a chisel at least at first and if I am working with something like balsa,  but I had a variable speed dremel for decades before I was lure making, it's a great tool to have for numerous applications.

 

But now I do most of my rough shaping with a bench disk/belt grinder fast and much easier to keep the rough shape “square”

 

Depending on the size of the lures you do you will probably have to handle lead eventually but you can get away with just a decent sized lead ladle and either a plumbers torch or a camp stove.

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I have got making a bait to about 10-20 min. I'm done with shaping a bait of normal size.  This is after cutting the wood with the bandsaw. All I use is one heavy rasp/standard file (not going to call the file by name), set of gouges and a set of miniture files. Then the detail, this can last 10-30 min. to 4-8 hrs (gill plate, scales, eye socket and mouth area). Started playing around with this much detail a few months ago. Unless you are going to use it as a master to pour resins, it seems to be a lot of work.

I will use sanders , dremal or whatever is needed. Mainly tho by hand.

Dale

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Yep I looked up for the reason of the name for the file some years ago. The name come from it being a irregular cut. Being between course cut and the next finer cut file (finishing cut). Same for a pipe that is not used in a particular industry. Its considered a .........size.

Man we come up with things to talk about. Files are about making hard baits tho. Whew....... we did a FYI without getting too far out there.

Dale

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I have a few files but they are designed for sharpening drill bits, saw blades, etc... have used them a few times on wood but of course less than ideal.  I do have a solid set of riffler rasps that I like to use however.  

Some new rasps are something I have been wanting to get at some point.  Just have held off as it can add up and haven't bitten the bullet yet.  I figure once I decide and try to make a few Maloof style rockers will procure (treat myself) one or two.   Darn hobbies add up.    

 

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