gliders Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Hi folks,Maybe should be in homebrew tools but thought I maybe get more feedback here ! Having decided to move from bandsaw to table saw for the bigger lip slots, I have decided more discretion and less valour the way to go. So,I have decided to build a decent sled and lip cutting jig ,as I'm about to build sled I thought I'd run a few ideas by you all . I've had a good dig back here and elsewhere and surprisingly there's not that much . I want to be able to adjust forward and back by a few mm keeping everything perfectly square. Shims between a fixed block behind angled block would be 1 solution, I also realise even easier would be just clamp lure to a block on sled and then unclamp and move forward. I would prefer not to use shims but maybe best. I'm willing to put time in to get right....here's one idea I'm looking at........thoughts appreciated. ..glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 I'm thinking if I make back block fixed and slot made in angled block with bolt through back block and angled block slot thus allowing angled block only, to slide forward and back may be reasonable solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dauds Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Am I reading your diagram correctly? Flat bottom lure blank sits nicely on the angled block. Nose "grounds out" on the floor of the sled. Lure blank held against the back block to keep the cut square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) Exactly dauds. Should add , just a sketch nothing to actual scale at moment, I could make several blocks for various angles or 1 adjustable block. Edited March 8, 2017 by gliders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dauds Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Well then, I think it's a fantastic design that will serve you well. And yes, I believe if you make the angled block itself moveable with a slot concept and a thumb screw for ease, you will be able to get a wider cut with multiple passes that will be at the same depth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dauds Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Here's a prototype I made about a year ago. It worked so well, I never remade it. Yes, I know I should upgrade and beef up the safety a bit. Regardless, I don't have a sliding slot as you came up with, only a fixed point, but the slot on the ramp should work just fine. Also, it gives you the opportunity to use a different ramp to get different angles. (first attempt to upload pics here, hope it works) So, we seem to think alike. Who should be more scared: you or me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 If your stock starts out rectangular, why not just set the saw blade at the angle and height you want, and lay the blank against the miter fence with a sacrificial wooden extension with a stop block? That way you can have multiple sacrificial fence extensions for different lip slot angles and heights. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dauds Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 I guess the truthful answer would be, "I never thought of that." In my case, I was trying to find a way to cut the slots after shaping the lures almost completely instead of beforehand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) Mark if you do it that way you can only make 1 pass with exact size blade for slot ,2 passes gives 1 step etc. Unless you make what l reckon would be a pretty complicated and less user friendly jig. The aim is adjustable slot widths with 1 blade,appreciate idea though. I've edited this,had idea of adjustable bar rather than various angled blocks- bad idea, not user friendly! Duad- thanks ,pics fine, I also cut slots before shaping mark. Edited March 8, 2017 by gliders 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Mark,it could be done the way you suggest by raising/lowering blade for each pass by measured amounts,but I thought it would be a pain in terms of user friendliness. ...glider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Easiest way is to make the two slides smaller, by the amount the blade likes cutting the exact slot size. This way you never have to adjust anything, you just move the jig to the opposite side of the slot and run again. Just my $.02. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 I'm like Mark, sense he suggested it to me some time back. I just have a end block that moves to except any length block of wood up to 12" in length. I have a few wing nuts to tighten. I took a old metal rule and glued it to the cross piece of wood. I cut it right on every time and to the depth I want. I have a gauge for blade height. It just slides over the blade and all I need to do is the math, but I already have the numbers on a sheet for all degrees that I use. Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) Got you dale, definitely another option,musky glen I think I follow you, sounds interesting. Dauds minimalist design sled appealing also, however, having just added a bigger table saw I reckon I might as well build a reasonably substantial sled which I can use for other purposes. Any more suggestions welcome, late night here and plan building tomorrow evening, so if anyone can help with better designs or improvements then please do ,thanks ....glider Edited March 9, 2017 by gliders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) A simple fence with t track allows the positioning of two stops on your cross cut sled. You can make different angle inserts to sit in your crosscut sled if needed. I prefer crosscut sled for this type of work and if so inclined a simple toggle clamp to hold the blank. For cutting the lip slot lay you rectangular blank on the sled and push forward to the stop and make first cut. The second stop would be located on tail end and you push the blank back to hit it and then make your 2 nd pass (or in reverse order doesn't matter). No having to readjust things just need a plie of rectangular blanks of the desired length. For baits you make frequently just mark the stop positions on the fence face with pen and mark the bait style. Edited March 9, 2017 by Travis 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Travis,1st thanks for input, if I understand correctly ,do you mean using 2 stops as opposed to having angled block adjustable? So in other words still using angled block but just to hold angle,then use front stop for pass 1 and back stop for pass 2 ? Hard to visualise some of these ideas including musky glens but I think I get both. I want to get underway today, so would you agree that building a crosscut sled is a sound 1st step ? Reason I'm asking is that I don't want to make sled then realise I should have built differently to accommodate jig ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Problem with angled blocks and the use on test materials are the tendency for the material to shift if not designed properly. It is doable for sure but you just have to design jigs to firmly hold the blank from my experiences as frequently the wood will want to climb up the angled block (ramp). I like sleds as find them much more stable and more repeatable results than most miter gauges the typical DIY guy has on their table saw. I will run out to the shop and take some pictures. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Thanks travis, definitely using sled. Not decided best option for holding blank ,was thinking of incorporating into back block on sketch, or maybe rear sled fence ?....glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) 18 hours ago, gliders said: Mark,it could be done the way you suggest by raising/lowering blade for each pass by measured amounts,but I thought it would be a pain in terms of user friendliness. ...glider I use a shim to adjust the depth of cut, so I don't have to readjust the blade height. Just a thin strip of the right thickness wood, placed under the blank to get the different depth. I do that with a drill press, too, so I can deepen a hole a precise about after I lock the press height at the top of my lure blank. That lets me make eye and rattle recesses the same depth on both sides. Edited March 9, 2017 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 I am still open to ideas mark , trying to weigh up best options, so thanks. Hope to have small sled designed and built 4-5 hours from now, then onto jig after that ...?.glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 I tried cutting lip slots after shaping and at a angle using stop blocks and a sliding fence against the sled fence. These all had issue's like what Travis describe. I then thought to just go as simplistic as possible. Mark was commenting on drilling ballast before shaping, because I had blow outs on the sides of the bait. So I thought why not just do it all at that time. My sledd can be adjusted all the way to straight (vertical position) out of the nose of the bait cut. Remember I know where I want to cut it with my paper template glued to the block of wood. No matter what Gliders I hope you get it the way you want it. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dauds Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) It seems most here opt for a lip cut on (lack of better term) rectangular stock. Does that mean the lip slot location then dictates the rest of your shaping/ carving? EDIT: Perhaps a topic for a new thread; not intending to veer from gliders' original intent with this topic. Edited March 9, 2017 by Dauds don't want to get discussion off track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Thanks dale,the easiest thing would have been sticking with bandsaw ! But I've always fancied for the bigger cranks I make that a decent tablesaw jig/sled would be superior. Going down the route of vertical blade and therefore angled blank to achieve slot width adjustability meant I needed a bigger table saw ,blades,jigs,sleds etc!. I'm still undecided about design of the actual jig/contraption /method. The sled is almost done so I'm looking to crack on. On a different note-muskie glen,do you mean you're using mitre fence instead of sled ?..........glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Duad,I think most cut while blank flat sided so as to achieve straight across cut ,certainly it's what I do. On the bandsaw I find it makes no difference if rectangular or outline shape as long as it's flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Gliders, If you'll make the part of the jig that holds your lure blank where you can slide it to the left or right then you can make the lip slot to fit whatever thickness of lip material you want. All you would have to do is have a stop block that positions the jig in the desired location. If your saw blade cuts a 1/8" kerf and you need a 3/16 slot just position the jig against the stop block and make your first cut. Then loosen the jig and slide it away from the stop block enough that you could then place a 1/16" shim between the stop block and the jig and tighten it back down. Now just run it through the saw again and you have a 3/16" slot. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Thanks ben,thats pretty much what I'm thinking, if i have blank on jig, then move/adjust jig ,forward or back to allow for various slot width using 1,2 or 3 passes, I'm thinking If i get design right then I would still have shim/ stop option. My reason for vertical blade/ angled lure blank versus angled blade/ flat lure blank is the former only needs 1 adjustment ,forward or back as opposed to angled blade which would need forward or back and up or down be it the blank or blade or jig to achieve same goal. Its surprised me that there's actually not more table saw setups out there. I've toyed with idea of moving from bandsaw to table saw for maybe 2 years and think I've seen 3 or 4 setups. .........glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
