Dauds Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Yeah... I feel bad. My initial advice was based on my jig/ sled for a fair sized flat-sided muskie bait. Obviously, a whole new dimension added for a bait that will have contoured sides. Can't believe that didn't "click" in my mind until just now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Hey dauds,thats what this jig is for,will be along similar lines probably. This is specifically for big lures with 3mm + lexan . The majority on T.A make mostly bass size lures I suppose, others make everything so different requirements. Again, thanks all for input. Will check in tomorrow and see if anyone got anything else,cheers.........glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 O.k guy's, I've built sled for table saw, let the avalanche of wondrously designed lure blank jig contraptions begin ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Anytime now the designs will be pouring fourth...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Yes I cut and drill in the retagluar shape once I know where everthing goes in the bait. I dont use a band to cut anything over a 1/32" or what circuit board thickness is. Circuit board fits tight and perfect for me in the cut. Your comment Gliders got me to thinking about a resaw blade that I have for 1/16" or 3mm cut. The teeth are off set and wore down some, but the blade is 1 1/4" wide. For cutting the slot that would be fine. The band saw is the way Gliders, thanks for getting me to think about that. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Been using bandsaw for some time dale,great for small to medium cranks ,not so much for 3-6mm lexan bills. It works o.k ,I have no problem with misaligned slots at all. However with a well designed jig setup and table saw, a perfect slot should be guaranteed every time, Any size,width or depth. I'm convinced that done properly it will be a superior method. (Plus I've just bought a bigger table saw and built a sled for this!) Also it might be possible to do 2 or 3 at a time......step up mcgiver. .....glder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 This is what I have at the minute guy's , not to scale. The adjustment would be by moving back block with angle blocks attached using bolt and slot possibly, and maybe stops for different width slots. I know the right hand angleblock not strictly necessary but it would give support and ensure repeatability. This is just 1 option I came up with and does not include any means of angle adjustment or fixing to sled ,nor does it include a means of clamping blank to jig yet If necessary. Interested to hear any thoughts ,(was thinking Vman might have an opinion but he seems to have went soft !) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Seems like a good solution to me Gliders. With all your blanks starting off with square corners a simple 90 degree cut at the appropriate angle in the block would guarantee repeatable results. Making the angled block one piece would also help ensure consistency. A simple spring clamp would work as a mean of attaching the work piece to the sled keeping things simple. Nice work. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Thanks ben,had learn how to make a sled and ensure it ran true to blade etc. ,took a while but got there ! The reason for 2 blocks was so blade can pass between them. They would be fixed to back block and back block able to slide left and right for varying slot widths using more than 1 pass. Rather than angled blocks flush to sled bed, maybe I could have both on seperate bolts and raised off bottom allowing angle adjustment ? The left block could just be a straight bar and the right block a simple right angle section. Thanks again ben and any other thoughts appreciated. ..........glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Nice work Gliders, I have one like that. Not As Nice, I just put plywood together and boards. What I put in one of my post is that I have blocks/stopping that will adjust. You can do that here too I would think. I also have mounted clamps to hold the block in place, this keeps the fingers out of the equation. I'm wondering what angle wedging would do for you. The problem with that is the wedging would need to pivot. Suggestion; put marks on the fence closest to you which would be degrees of angles that you will want. A square block of wood being placed in the same spot, then can be pivoted to the desired angles and clamped. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Thanks dale,I'm in process of doing something along those lines at the minute . Probably the easiest way of angle adjustment would be pivoting the complete jig ,could then fix angle in various ways. I'm going to put together with bolts so allowing for adaptation if needed. I reckon quick release clamp may be the easiest solution for holding blank if needed ,don't want to lose any more fingers, I'm running out.......glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Hi folks,for anyone interested I managed to come up with a sled/jig that gives me adjustment for width,angle and by raising /lowering blade also depth of slot. This gives me the range of angles I need but could be adapted for more. I haven't added anything to clamp the blank down, but down several tests just holding in position and so far so good. Here's some pics and thanks for letting me bounce some ideas about, .....glider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 With a 8 or 9 inch blank for scale- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) This is the sleds that I made. Its setting in a miter slide gauge. I use this one for more than 45° which is not often. Sorry for the clutter, I'm change old tackle boxes to new ones. This is one that I use most for baits. The blade in the saw is 1/16". I can put a fence on this one and cut quite many at a time. As it is, I can cut 7-3/4" blanks at a time. This one adjust in as many directions as you would want. All position locks down for safety. I thought this could give you some ideas. Sorry about the pic's being side ways, I've got to figure that out. First time that I could send an pic from my phone. Yipppy!!! Dale Edited March 12, 2017 by DaleSW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Looks like a good jig dale, final tweak done on mine and am very pleased with results, Does what I was after in terms of adjustment and very quick ,I also made a few more blocks to cover various options,took a bit of time but well worth the effort.Ive not added a clamp but had no issues with blank moving, I might add a quick release type device for safety .Thats not clutter dale,thats neat and organised Edited March 12, 2017 by gliders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
