wcorbinbass Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Hi guys, I am getting to the point where I can no longer keep up with doing clear coat by brushing one at a time, I would like to set up a spray system. I am putting out 30 to 50 crankbaits a day and it would be helpful if I could spray them. I have dabbled with dick nite a bit with varying results, not to say its not the answer. I may not be using the proper spray equipment. I am open to any ideas at all that will speed up production from devcon. Any thoughts on car clear coat? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I spray Dick Nite, but only build a couple baits at any one time so I just spray it with an airbrush. For spraying the number of baits your talking about an HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray gun should suit your needs. Unless your set up with a proper spray booth, and safety equipment, I wouldn't recommend using auto clears. Not saying they won't do the job, but they can be extremely hazardous to your health if you don't have the right safety gear. This would include anyone in the same area that could be exposed to the fumes. There are numerous threads discussing this subject and you would be well advised to do a search and read up on spraying auto clear. Just because you plan on spraying your top coat doesn't mean your limited to auto clears. When you get right down to it if your using a liquid top coat, and I can't think of any that aren't liquid, then there is a way to spray it. hope this helps, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) I use DN MCU too, and wanted a method that was similar to dipping without exposing my unused finish to ambient moisture. Spraying didn't appeal to me so using a soft brush, I just quickly flood coated the lures and hung them up to dry and drip the excess off the tails. Takes only a few seconds to do. It works fine and there's only a brush to clean up afterward. There is a little wasted finish from what drips off the lures, but no more than if I were dipping the lures directly in the MCU. Several TUers dip in KBS Diamond Coat MCU and say it's less sensitive to moisture contamination. My feeling is "why spray if you don't need to?" It's no faster and you don't have to worry about thinning the MCU, or about adjusting a spray gun or airbrush. If I were doing 30-50 lures a day, I'd probably just dip them in Dick Nite just like he does for his factory baits. You'd be using up the finish quickly enough that moisture contamination probably wouldn't be a problem. Jmho Edited March 11, 2017 by BobP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 There is one advantage spraying has over brushing that I have found. With spraying you don't have to worry about bubbles in the top coat. For whatever reason I would occasionally end up with small bubbles when brushing a top coat. Most of the time these could be dealt with IF these tired old eyes saw them. So far I have not had to deal with bubbles in the top coat on any of the baits that were sprayed. Not sure why it happens, but sometimes one persons techniques don't work as well for someone else. Sometimes it could be something as simple as a difference in atmospheric conditions such as humidity levels. For example, when spraying DN I place my baits on a lure turner to cure. Bob has had adverse reactions in the form of paint wrinkling when placing DN covered baits on a lure turner. For some reason I don't have this problem. It could be that spraying ends up with a thinner coating than brushing so the DN doesn't stay in a liquid state as long on the sprayed baits. Staying in a liquid state for a longer period of time possibly gives the DN longer to react with the paint. Maybe it's a combination of heat and humidity. I'm not a chemist so this is only a guess on my part, but my procedure works for me just like Bob's works for him even though while using the same materials we apply them in a different manner. This is what some people fail to understand when asking for solutions to problems they're having. I don't know of anyone at TU who would intentionally mislead someone when it comes to answering lure building questions. It all boils down to the fact that there is no ONE way to build a lure. If there was only one way to do things it would get pretty boring around here and instead of a lure building forum TU would be boiled down to a list of rules. Every builder that has been around for a while knows EXACTLY how expensive it can get when trying different materials and techniques, but sometimes this is necessary to find out what works best for you. Ben 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Yup, you're right Ben. When it comes to topcoats, the devil is in the details! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VANNDALIZER Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 No better way in my opinion. Make sure you have an explosion proof motor on you booth so you don't have a fire! And wear a good mask. I have used automotive poly from Napa auto parts for years. Its local and cheaper than most. My racks can hold up to 48 baits and sits or hangs inside the booth. The racks and booth will accommodate baits as long as 16" Dries in 15-20 mins. or quicker with a little heat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fshng2 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Can automotive poly be brushed or dipped with good results too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 The only auto clears I've used were two part that had to be mixed at a 4/1 resin to catalyst ratio. If you mixed enough to dip lures in you would be wasting a LOT of clear coat. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Edited, I got carried away below about booths and didn't say anything about poly and clears. I have a 3 part poly that was given to me and I know why it was given to me know. The measuring is a pain in the proverbial buttocks. I have very little time in this hobby and going through this is not worth it. Ever read up on KBS? I dip it at the moment but I am going to start shooting it. I am tired of having paint droplets all over my work area so I decided to make a paint booth and while doing it I might as well make it capable of using any paint. (End of Edit) I'm going to build a booth in about a month or so and have read up on this at lengths and have talked to custom car painter/artist. I also have heard of auto clears from members of TU. Woodie is one off the top of my head. All car painters are high on using HVLP guns (no pun intended). I picked up one up that is a mini. The motor/fan needs to be intrengent to exploding from fumes.....this is a most!!! The next thing that I have learnt is to make a chamber between the filter/fan and the work area with a baffle system. The baffle chamber will create an even draw across the work area. The next is to draw from the bottom but you need at inward draft also. The fan(s) need to draw at least 400 CFM. You can make a adjustment release to control the draw, The exhaust needs to allow the movement of air, no restrictions and keeping all clean and clear of obstructions. Remember and warning, making a paint booth must be done properly. Their are some that would say buy one because of insurances. They have something to it. You really need to know what's going on with explosive paints, etc. I'm going to use pig board (sortta) as the area under the bait work made of aluminum. Then the baffle chamber, a filter that will catch paint and can be removed and another put into place. My lighting will be intrengently (explosion proof) safe. My exhaust will be 6" PVC and it will be grounded because of static electricity. My dust colecting system is grounded also. Am I going overboard?........Nope, me and my shop will be safe. And yes my insurance company knows what I do in there. If you are not using a paint/clear that does not have corrosive or explosive properties you can do things a tad bit easier. I will still wear a mask and goggles that are appropriate for this. There's a little more to it than most think. Most don't realize what these paints/clears can do. Good luck, Dale Edited March 12, 2017 by DaleSW Added to comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 a good blower and a boxed in spray area will give good results. just up here in Canada the heat goes with the air draw,out the venting. in summer months heat gets pulled from the attic and becomes an inferno. in summer months we squirt early mornings..a company I paint for installed a osha approved booth. 15 grand 10 years ago..but that's not a fun hobby application.,guys just don't use a shopvac for a draw. the motors really are sparky.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
