Kscatman76 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I've been making my bass jigs with a weed guard for a long time. I always pour with the pin in for the weed guard, then pull it out, powder paint, bake etc. THEN I have to use a drill to clean the hole out to glue the weed guard in and it's by far the worst and most annoying step in the process to me. Do any of you paint them with the pin left in? will it mess the pin up for future use? thanks in advance, travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troutgnat Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Travis, I've done it your way(PITA) and I've also painted with the pin in which is still a pain in rear. I'm still trying, like you, to come up with a better solution to this. I recently poured some with weedguards in. I loved how easy that was. I then bought some of these Teflon weedguard protectors and attempted to try painting using these. That did not go over well!!! I use powder paint, a heat gun and dip. This did not work well with the Teflon weedguard protector! Maybe it will if you use a fluid bed but I have not gone that route yet. Please others chime in with a better solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLS Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I cast with a teflon pin, remove the pin to store the head till I'm ready to paint, reinstall the pin for painting, remove the teflon pin and wipe clean as soon as the jig is painted. I cure my paint without having a pin installed and have never had to drill a hole out to install a weed guard! Hope that helps! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troutgnat Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 And whats your method of painting JLS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 1 hour ago, JLS said: I cast with a teflon pin, remove the pin to store the head till I'm ready to paint, reinstall the pin for painting, remove the teflon pin and wipe clean as soon as the jig is painted. I cure my paint without having a pin installed and have never had to drill a hole out to install a weed guard! Hope that helps! I do mine exactly the same way and never have any problems. Been doing it like this for about 5 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walking Dead Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Teflon pins in, paint and cure with the teflon pin in. After cured, remove pin and pack for skirting and weed guard in later. Paint on the pins: bend them a little a peel/slide off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLS Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 36 minutes ago, troutgnat said: And whats your method of painting JLS? How I arrive at my colors, is top secret but I will gladly share the "how to make your paint the most durable possible". I heat all of my heads with a denatured alcohol burning torch (purchased from Barlows) and paint with my lead being just warm enough to pick up paint (if your lead is so hot that your paint is smoking, you got it way to hot). What I love about the torch is that I can adjust the wick way down so that I don't over heat an 1/8oz crappie jig or adjust it out to heat an 1 1/2oz musky bait as quickly as possible ......... and denatured alcohol is fairly cheap, especially if you can find it by the gallon. Depending on size and color, I can paint anywhere from 40 to 120 baits an hour using this method. After all of the molding , cleaning, painting, and loading them in the oven is done; do not cure your bait for 20 minutes. you've already got a lot of time invested in your bait, go ahead and cure it for the additional 5 minutes that it takes to make it the most durable finish ever. The only time I cure more than 25 minutes is when I have 300 - 400 1 or 1 1/2 oz baits loaded, then I'll cure for 28 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troutgnat Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Hmmmmm, this lends me to rethinking my approach. I used to do the alcohol lamp method but scratched it and went to a heat gun for a faster approach. Maybe this was the wrong way of thinking. I've been doing the heat gun method for several years now with decent results. Are you using the recommended Manufacturers curing temp for this 25 minutes or what is your preferred curing temperature if you don't mind. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troutgnat Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 JLS now I remember why I quit using the alcohol lamp back in the day...I got frustrated because at the time I could not find replacement wicks for that dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLS Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 57 minutes ago, troutgnat said: JLS now I remember why I quit using the alcohol lamp back in the day...I got frustrated because at the time I could not find replacement wicks for that dude. I'm sure Hobby Lobby would have some wick material. I don't let mine run out of alcohol so I don't have to worry about burning up the wick! Yes, I cure at 350 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troutgnat Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 In your opinion why do you choose the alcohol torch over the heat gun or for that matter the toaster? I'd be interested in knowing the pros/cons of using: alcohol torch heat gun toaster oven hmmmmm??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 I like the heat gun as opposed to a torch because I feel like I have better control of the heat. Have not tried a alcohol burner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
