porkmeatballs Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but is it ok to paint and clear coat resin baits right after they are poured? I tried using the search bar, but I couldn't really find anything. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ Fisher Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 I think they need to off gas a while from what I have read or you'll get blisters or bubbles in the finish. Thought I read where someone let them sit a week before painting, Someone with more experience will chime in soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Let them sit the full cure time, then wash with Dawn dish soap to get any release agent off of them. Use a high grade primer. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 7 minutes ago, DingerBaits said: Let them sit the full cure time, then wash with Dawn dish soap to get any release agent off of them. Use a high grade primer. Would putting them in a vacuum chamber, like the ones used to pull gases out of soft plastics, help speed the process, or is it just that the chemicals continue to create gas as the resin cures over time? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Dingerbaits, is primer necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 I suggest it if you want proper paint adhesion. I have heard of people spraying primer into silicon molds before they pour them but I have not tried it yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Ok thanks! I actually don't have problems with paint adhesion, but I do have problems with my epoxy. It keeps pulling away in some areas, giving my baits a very ugly clear coat finish. Maybe I'm putting too little epoxy? Maybe something in the resin is causing this? I really have no idea how to get a nice even finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Wear rubber gloves, make sure the bait is clean, and dont get grease or oils from your hands on the bait. that will help. Most guys that use epoxy clears will put them on a bait turner to keep the epoxy from running. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 I have a bait turner, so the problem probably has to do with my dirty sweaty hands lol. I'll try gloves next time! So basically I can paint and epoxy right after the resin cures and i wash it with soap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 You are correct, make sure you read the instructions on the full cure time. But washing the bait will help remove anything that comes to the surface. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Alright, thanks so much Dingerbaits! I really appreciate it! My resin says that it cures in 10 minutes, so i guess I can wash it pretty soon after I pour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Does it matter what material the gloves are made of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 I use powderless gloves. Just make sure you do some fact checking that it is fully cured in 10 mins. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 A little update: I think it worked! There are only a fewer bubbles in the epoxy! However, I did put a lot more epoxy on it and some parts have a little bit too much now... Is there a way to put exactly the right amount of epoxy on my bait without over applying it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Practice, only practice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fshng2 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) 22 hours ago, porkmeatballs said: A little update: I think it worked! There are only a fewer bubbles in the epoxy! However, I did put a lot more epoxy on it and some parts have a little bit too much now... Is there a way to put exactly the right amount of epoxy on my bait without over applying it? Anglinarcher is right the best teacher is practice. The best results I get are with Etec (Envirotec Lite). You can get it at AC Moore with a 50% off coupon. I put just a very small amount on the brush at a time and drag the epoxy from left to right until the lure is completly covered. If you want you can go back with a dryer brush and remove any excess epoxy from line ties, hook hangers, around eye sockets etc. Lastly put the lure on the turner where the E-tec continues to level out. Because E-tec is thin and has a long open time the leveling process allows it to cover evenly. Whatever epoxy you use put it on thin and choose one with enough open time for it to level out. Good Luck. Edited March 15, 2017 by fshng2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 Alright, I'll keep practicing! Maybe I could do two thin coats of epoxy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonny.Barile Posted March 19, 2017 Report Share Posted March 19, 2017 (edited) When I was casting lures I let them sit in a warm room for a week before painting. BTW I tried painting the mold to get "preprimed" surfaces and it is terrible. The paint must be brushed on as the oils in the silicone make the sprays bead up. You end up with a lot of paint running to the bottom of the mold cavity. When you pop out the finished casting the bottom surface will be a thick rubbery layer of primer paint. Edited March 19, 2017 by Sonny.Barile 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ces Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 On 15/03/2017 at 0:02 PM, porkmeatballs said: A little update: I think it worked! There are only a fewer bubbles in the epoxy! However, I did put a lot more epoxy on it and some parts have a little bit too much now... Is there a way to put exactly the right amount of epoxy on my bait without over applying it? As others have mentioned, practice. But multiple thin layers can help. Keep the oils away from it between each coat or you'll keep getting fish eyes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fshng2 Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Ces you are correct oils are something you can't see so it's easy to overlook them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Do I have to wait for each coat to completely dry before applying the next one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ces Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 (edited) 42 minutes ago, porkmeatballs said: Do I have to wait for each coat to completely dry before applying the next one? Not necessarily. If I'm adding glitter or some sort of shimmer medium to the top coat the rotation on the lure turner can sometimes have the effect of throwing the glitter etc. to the outer edge of the top coat, particularly with thinner epoxies like e-tex, so I'll start with the glitter coat and then 8 hours later add a second clear coat. This might not be a problem on very slow spinning drying wheels. My motor is from a BBQ rotisserie and does a about 6 RPM (from memory). However, for totally clear baits I let them cure completely between coats. This is because if I do get some fish eyes occurring I can't be sure how bad the oil/dust/whatever contamination is and I wipe them down with alcohol after the first coat of epoxy. I usually end up doing 3 coats. Dont be nervous if the first or even the second coat dont look perfect just make sure you've brushed epoxy everywhere and the coats will build up. Edited March 24, 2017 by Ces spelling 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Thanks for the insight! My bait turner spins rather quickly, so I'm not sure how much this will affect the spreading of the epoxy. My epoxy fully hardens in about a week... Is it crucial that I wait this long before applying the next coat? I like the glitter idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ces Posted March 31, 2017 Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 what epoxy are you using mate? A week is a long time to wait I reckon. have you considered switching to etex? It fully cures in 48-72 hours but I'm happy swimming mine after about 36 hours (final coat). For straight epoxy, the RPM of your turner wont matter too much as long as its not spinning so fast as to throw all the epoxy to the outer edge. Good luck with it. The glitter idea is not mine but a good one. Cheers, Ces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
