First time making bucktails and need help

[JimB]

I just started pouring bucktails for fluke fishing. I've been doing smaller ones without an issue. When I try pouring 5oz -8oz I'm having a hard time getting the lead to melt all the way around the collar. I've tried using a 10lb bottom pour and 2lb hot pot. I've had better results with the 2lb but still having issues.  I've tried heating the mold, holding mold at an angle, adjusting my heat temp and varied my pouring speeds.  Still not molding right. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks 

[fshng2]

Did you try doing mutiple pours without hooks to get the mold really hot?

I often do this till the parts look good then use hooks.

Also try using a ladle they work better for larger baits like you are doing.

Edited April 12, 2017 by fshng2

[fshng2]

I bought my  ladle thru Amazon ; this is all I use to pour.

I have found that by pouring a Lot of lead quickly, prevents me from having no fills.

I let the ladle sit in the melting pot to keep it hot while I  reload the mold with hooks.

I always flux my lead to cause dross to float on top which I skim off.  I feel this cleaning process makes the lead flow better.

Don't over heat the lead as this creates more dross and can cause unwanted flashing of  the end product.

Remember, the goal is to run the lead temp hot enough to completely fill without flashing.

Safety First Reminder:  Mold only with adequate ventilation, use eye protection, use protective gloves and clothing.  

 

Specs/Features:

No. 2 Rowell Bottom-pouring cast iron ladle 2-1/2"  bowl diameter 2 pounds lead capacity.

Self-skimming, clean pouring from the bottom of the bowl.

Provides uniform pour rate and helps prevent floating surface dross and contaminents from entering the mold cavities. 

10" wooden grip handle remain cool. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUZ87I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited April 12, 2017 by fshng2

[BLT]

I do 4oz. spros, and 6 and 8oz. fluke balls all the time.  Are you using good lead, or wheel weights?

Is you spout opened up? Meaning that it's not clogged with dirt and the flow is restricted. When doing the larger stuff, I make sure the pot is full so there is more weight to push the lead out of the spout faster.

Sounds like you are heating the mold, but after you get the mold hot enough, leave the hook sit in the mold for 15-20 seconds so that heats up also. In the colder months, I have to do this.

What type of bottom feed mold are you using? A Lee pot?  Worst case, you may have to drill that spout a little bigger. I know others that have an issue with the Lee pots and larger jigs.

I have had your issues before, and warming the hook, and using cleaner lead helped. You may also want to try that mold release spray. I don't use it, but others here swear by it.

[fshng2]

BLT, I use Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent and Lube.
Amazon sells it.
I always use it as a release agent to helps jigs drop easily from the mold. I highly recommend it. Without it, jigs tend to stick which is aggravatingfor me.
It may help solder to flow better as graphite is a lubricant...who knows.

Home Depot also sells a graphite spray which probably works the same way.
However I decided to stick with Fankfords. They make this as a release agent for bullets, who am I to argue with?

[JimB]

Thanks for the input guys.  I'm using 25lb lead bricks, very clean.  I've been cutting them Down into manageable pieces then melting them. I'm going to try some of the things BLT mentioned before buying anything else.  Filling the pot to add more weight pushing the lead out seems like a good idea but I'm not getting a great cast when I'm pouring with small pot either. I didn't think to heat the mold and leave the hook for a bit to get the hook hot.  The bottom pour pot is made by Lee. Any recommendations on a better pot? Thanks again guys. 

[fshng2]

13 minutes ago, JimB said:

Thanks for the input guys.  I'm using 25lb lead bricks, very clean.  I've been cutting them Down into manageable pieces then melting them. I'm going to try some of the things BLT mentioned before buying anything else.  Filling the pot to add more weight pushing the lead out seems like a good idea but I'm not getting a great cast when I'm pouring with small pot either. I didn't think to heat the mold and leave the hook for a bit to get the hook hot.  The bottom pour pot is made by Lee. Any recommendations on a better pot? Thanks again guys. 

 

I went with the Lee Magnum Melter

20 # capacity non bottom pour.

I decided on this one after all the issues I read about with the small bottom pour melters.

That's why I was sold on using the bottom pouring ladle.  I wanted to keep it simple with no spout to clog.

The good news is any temp controlled melter can be used with a ladle.

Do you use a Saws-all to cut your bricks?

 

[BLT]

There are a couple other pots to use, Lyman and RCBS. They are a big investment compared to the Lee pot. I have the RCBS and would get another when this one dies, but I pour  thousands of  jigs a year to sell.

I know someone here that uses a cast iron pot and a big ladle to pour his big jigs, and some of his are couple pounds for Halibut.

When your pot is hot, I have a cut off jig hook to hold with vise grips and force up into the spout all the way to clean it out. 2/0 or 3/0 hook is what I use. May want to consider wearing gloves.

[JimB]

Yes I use a sawzall to cut it. Tried a band saw first but it didn't cut well. I wouldn't be opposed to spending a little more money for a better pot if I was getting decent results. I'd love to see a commercial set up just to see the process but I don't know anyone else who makes their own bucktails.  I'll have to try cutting a hook to see if I can clean the spout. Maybe that would help. Thanks 

[fshng2]

BLT just saw this interesting note on the Do-it-Molds website.

RCBS Pro-Melt Lead Melter by Do-It-Molds
The rate of lead flow is adjustable for cavities from 1/120 to 1 1/2 ounces. Note: As with other bottom pour furnaces, we do not recommend the PRO-MELT to pour spinner jigs or to pour parts weighing over 1 1/2 ounces.

[BLT]

You can adjust the "flow" by a cap head screw on a bracket on top. It controls how far you can lift the handle/plunger so more lead can flow out.

Yea, I read that before about the 1.5oz. max cavity. Like I said, I do those 8oz. fluke balls w/o issues. Then again, they don't have collars to worry about.

[Apdriver]

On 4/12/2017 at 9:56 PM, BLT said:

Is you spout opened up? Meaning that it's not clogged with dirt and the flow is restricted. When doing the larger stuff, I make sure the pot is full so there is more weight to push the lead out of the spout faster.

Look very carefully at this. Over time, it will restrict and because it is progressive it will restrict the flow without you realizing it. I found myself turning up my heat to compensate for the reduced flow I was getting. Finally one day it just wouldn't pour a mold I was working with and I stuck a spinnerbait form in the nozzle and I was back in business.

[ING]

Try to preheat mold by torch

[robalo01]

I have been pouring Do-it molds with Lee pots for about 25 years (yes I am old). I stopped using the bottom pour spouts about 8-10 years ago (I think). I find that fiddling with leaks and having to clean the spouts is just not worth the hassle. Here are my top 4 factors for pouring that if each are addressed will eliminate 99% of pouring failures (in order of importance).

1. Temperature.  About 80% of the time that the mold doesn't pour properly, it is because the lead is not hot enough. The proper temp can be different for different alloys, but usually increasing the temp by either turning up the thermostat, giving it more time or reducing the amount of lead in the pot will correct the problem.

2. Alloy. The purer the lead, the easier it will pour. When turning up the temp isn't enough, lead purity is my next troubleshoot.

3. Flow. I know bottom pour seems convenient, but I have found that a 2-3 oz ladled in the right shape, filled no more than halfway will allow you to pour the lead in the very center of the gate AND you can see what you are doing. In my experience, the flow from a ladle is superior the valve on a Lee pot. Can't speak for the more expensive brands.

4. Mold Design. I have not found an unmodified Do-it mold that I could not pour (I have over 100 of them, granted all in the 1/16 to 4 oz range).

I used to wonder why my older ones poured more easily than the new ones. I have come to believe that when molds are newer and tighter, the air doesn't escape as easily and can make the harder to pour than "seasoned" molds. One trick is to hold them a little "loose" in your hand. Don't clamp down too hard. I have an old Arrow Head mold that I had almost given up on until I learned this trick.

Now, once they are modified, they can be troublesome -- particularly using larger hooks than originally intended.

Note that I never preheat molds and have very little faith in "fluxing". This is just my take. i am sure others have different experiences.

Stephen

 

[BLT]

I flux to get more dirt out of the lead so the spout stays clean.  Not pre heating molds, if it works for you, then that's the right way to do it. Myself, doing some "pre pours" to heat up the mold to a good temp works for us. You have to consider the ladle pour speed versus the pour speed/flow rate of a bottom feed pot. That makes the playing field different also.  I use the ladle at times when using my Reading molds for inline/trolling sinkers.  I don't care much for these 2 piece Reading molds lol.