clemmy Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Hello, I need to get some replacement sandpaper, and am just curious what other folks like for Grit for disc and belt sanders. I usually use the belt for smoothing and evening out the balsa body after rough shaping cut/carve. The disc I normally use for dressing polycarbonate/micarta lips up to the line. haven't messed around with PVC yet, but plan to, so would love to hear those opinions as well! thanks, craig Edited April 13, 2017 by clemmy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 I find 80 grit good on belt and disc for most things craig,however I make mostly big hardwood lures ....glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post BobP Posted April 13, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 I go with 120 or 220 on my disk sander. Getting in a hurry with big grit paper tends to produce matchsticks instead of crankbaits for me. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 For balsa I run 120 and 220 grit also. I find 120 plenty aggressive for the most part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 8 hours ago, clemmy said: Hello, I need to get some replacement sandpaper, and am just curious what other folks like for Grit for disc and belt sanders. I usually use the belt for smoothing and evening out the balsa body after rough shaping cut/carve. The disc I normally use for dressing polycarbonate/micarta lips up to the line. haven't messed around with PVC yet, but plan to, so would love to hear those opinions as well! thanks, craig Clemmy, You must have a steady hand, and nerves of steel! I hand sand all my balsa baits. It's way too hard to put wood back, once it's gone. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clemmy Posted April 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 Lol Mark, I don't get that close, as I'm not trying to get to final shape. I cut out on the band saw, then whittle a bit to round over, then use the sander to sort of "even out" the lines from whittling. Then I hand sand to final. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fshng2 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 11 minutes ago, mark poulson said: Clemmy, You must have a steady hand, and nerves of steel! I hand sand all my balsa baits. It's way too hard to put wood back, once it's gone. Mark, I'm with you on this one. Belt Sander and balsa......might as well get out the chainsaw and get it over with. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I use a variable speed Foredom rotary tool with a soft rubber sanding cylinder and 220 grit paper to erase carving edges. But regardless I always resort to hand sanding with 220 or even 400 grit paper for final smoothing. A Dremel fine grit sanding cylinder does just as well as the Foredom if you apply a light touch. A rotary tool can get into areas that a disk or belt sander can't. I use my disk sander for milling blanks down to width and cutting initial tapers. I'm sure other tools will work as well. These are just the ones I had on hand when I started making baits, and I've stuck with them. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 38 minutes ago, BobP said: I use a variable speed Foredom rotary tool with a soft rubber sanding cylinder and 220 grit paper to erase carving edges. But regardless I always resort to hand sanding with 220 or even 400 grit paper for final smoothing. A Dremel fine grit sanding cylinder does just as well as the Foredom if you apply a light touch. A rotary tool can get into areas that a disk or belt sander can't. I use my disk sander for milling blanks down to width and cutting initial tapers. I'm sure other tools will work as well. These are just the ones I had on hand when I started making baits, and I've stuck with them. You bring up a good point Bob. The longer you use specific tools the more accomplished you become with them. Being familiar with the tools you use is a very important part of any builders skills. Ben 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 14, 2017 Report Share Posted April 14, 2017 I usually don't use power tools with balsa for sanding. After a few passes with the knife just quickly round the edges with a sanding pad. Have used other means just didn't find the to add much speed to the process or accuracy. As suggested many ways to do things. Yes some are superior to others others equal. I like my dremel, especially the "pumpkin carver" dremel kit as no cord, batter operated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post woodieb8 Posted April 15, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 all I know,new belts love finger skin owwww, 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 11 hours ago, woodieb8 said: all I know,new belts love finger skin owwww, Ain't that the truth. Just a few weeks aga week managed to flip the knuckles into a spinning wall of 80 grit. Didn't think much of it till I got to work and having to stuff my hands into nitrile gloves all day long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 I think because it appears so benign compared to other power tools there's a tendency to be a bit blase with belt/disc sanders = sore fingers ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 15, 2017 Report Share Posted April 15, 2017 For me the issue is usually thin and smaller pieces. Easy to catch and pull you hand into the belt as most of these pieces are being free handed so no anchor point before contacting piece to the moving paper. Usually the shape of the piece forces it to be done in this manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...