advice on first airbrush setup

[ayetti]

Getting my first airbrush setup together, super excited, but figured I should check with people here.  I was looking at either a iwata neo or a revolution, unless you all suggest a different setup.  If I bought an airbrush like this one would I need to purchase any different needles or nozzles? 

 

Would it be possible to run an airbrush off a compressor like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-30-Gallon-Portable-155-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/3824207 ? I was thinking I could run air to the paint station through PVC and then maybe have some working pressure adjuster there so I didn't have to turn the whole system pressure down?  

 

Would a h20 trap like this one work http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-standard-air-filter-68279.html

 

I plan on mostly painting with acrylic paints.  

 

I would be open to anyone's suggestions on how to set this all up right, and pictures of anyone else's set ups would be awesome.  

 

Can I use a dowel on a rod drying turner to keep the epoxy on the baits even? 

 

Would it ever be worth creating some kind of fume hood 

Edited April 29, 2017 by ayetti
forgot

[SW Lures]

First off I use a compressor like that one and I run my whole shop off of it. If you notice in its description, it is oil lubricated. My suggestion is to put both water and oil traps/filters. I also have a water trap near my paint station. I highly suggest a large pressure gauge near you and a regulator/fine tuning valve or both.

Airbrush; you will have to buy brushes to go to different size needles when using a Iwata. Some Paasha's and Badgers (I think w/the badger) you can buy the brush and buy the needles of different sizes, i.e. the Talon made by Paasha. I'm not saying what I would do as far as brand names. I have heard bad things about the Neo and I've heard of people praise them. I have a eclipse and a revolution, I also have a Talon. I like my revolution a lot. I do believe in reviewing and buying quality brushes. Money is a consideration, but I don't mind spending for a good product within reason.

The paint booth or hood; I would make one or buy one. If I would make one I would research it a lot to really understand what is needed. Understand this, what we use some times is flammable. Doing them right is a most!! Don't skimp on making it. Seal fan motors for this, right exhaust size piping, baffle chamber for even flow, etc. There is a article that I read by googling paint booths, excellent infomation on this. Can't remember the name.

Dowel on a turner; yep.....use YouTube, it's your best friend. Decide what you like and one more thing. Your imagination WILL go a long way in this hobby. Use the search feature in hard baits and read up on these questions too.

Good luck,

Dale

[SW Lures]

I wanted to show and tell you a few other things. First, on them type of compressors always drain the tank after a session. Mine is an older model, and that's because I learnt that water condensates in the bottom of the tank, which will rust it out. The manufacturers may have addressed this problem by now.

The next one is about a gauge and regulator near you. This is a old pic that I found, I'm sorry it's not one lately. I'm not near the house at this time. Here is basically what I have now, but right at hand reach.

You can see a simple regulator at the wall. As I stated above I use this for the whole shop so I have hard pipe the shop. The hard piping is up to the regulator where I reduce and work my way to the hoses. The gauge is a 0-60 psi. but that is not as important to me as the 1 psi increments and the 2+" diameter. This gauge is accurate because I have the ability to check it's accuracy. I hardly ever get above 40 psi. At times I will be between 5 to 20 psi. Its very easy to see. I still have the ball valve in place for maintenance. I have a manifold for multiple hose hook up now. All connection for the hoses are 1/4" NPT. I did need to adapte to different size hoses. I do recommend quick connect couplings/connectors at the airbrushs.

Dale

[ayetti]

thank you for that info! I will definitely look for a gauge and regulator like that one, i like the one psi increments.

 

Glad to hear the fume hood is reasonable! 

 

I will make sure and drain the compressor off regularly.

 

So the airbrushes don't change size, that is good to know.  What sizes should I get? 

[SW Lures]

The Talon does allow for changes in needle sizes, the Iwata does not. Since you are starting out and I will assume you want one of the Iwata models. I would start with a .035 mm. This is the middle of the road size. A good all around size needle. Then you can go smaller for detail later. Iwata's are a excellent brush.

Just be careful building a paint booth and read up on them. Extremely dangerous if done wrong. Read up about how car painters use the ventalation. They draw away in the floor, draw and push. Gently tho, baffle drawing chamber (for even draw), some tips for you.

Enjoy this great hobby,

Dale

[BobP]

The Revolution B Iwata comes with a .3 mm tip that has been my favorite size for crankbaits.  Small enough to do good shading, large enough that I can shoot flakes and pearls without clogging.  It is also value priced compared to other Iwatas that are made in Japan.  The Neo is not made in Japan like higher priced Iwata brushes.  Some like them, some have panned them.  Any Iwata in the .3-.35mm tip range is in the sweet spot as an "all around" brush, IMO.

I run my compressor at max psi and control air to the brush with a secondary regulator with lower psi limit.  That gives you the longest painting session before the compressor recycles.

[ayetti]

Thank you guys so much! Im glad I didn't just rush to buy this stuff, definitely still learning.  

 

How often do you guys change the tip/needle size in your brushes? I started checking out the talons and they are reasonably priced too.  

 

Would you all recommend getting a gun that has a .3 tip and then have a second gun set up with a .2? or would I be better having .3 being the smallest and getting a bigger brush as well?

[ayetti]

This was the talon I was looking at http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paasche-Talon-Airbrush-Set-TG-3F-Double-Action-Internal-Mix-Gravity-Feed/221980960348?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D40130%26meid%3D98c86c6ec54f4e299820a7fa891e2efc%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D390860855002

[BobP]

Can't comment on the Talon, haven't used one.  To change tip sizes in a standard Paasche VL or Badger 150 brush, you have to switch out the needle and the cone.  These brushes usually come with 3 tip sets.  Iwata brushes have screw-in nozzles instead of cones, which is a more precise system.  They are less amenable to switching tip sizes because the nozzles are very small, many about the size of a grain of rice or even smaller.  However, a .3 or .35 mm Iwata tip doesn't have to be switched out for a different size because it will shoot any viscosity airbrush paint.  Crankbaits tend to be pretty small paint projects, even musky size baits.  I don't see the need to use larger tipped brushes unless you plan to also airbrush other projects like a motorcycle tank.  On the other hand, there are plenty of crankbait artists using Paasche and Badger brushes and turning out beautiful paint jobs.  It's really more a question of artistic ability and knowing how to control a brush through experience than it is what brand of airbrush you choose. 

Edited May 1, 2017 by BobP

[ayetti]

Went with the revolution 2500 hbpr. Hope that's the right one, has a .3mm nozzle. Confusing stuff! 

Edited May 1, 2017 by ayetti

[ravenlures]

Ayetti I don't think running your air from the compressor through PCV pipe is a good idea.  You can run everything you have off that compressor. I run my airbrush from a 8 gal. compressor on my back porch through air hose down to my basement area for painting, with a regulator for the airbrushes that I use, much more quiet too.

 

Good Luck

Wayne

[mark poulson]

1 hour ago, ravenlures said:

Ayetti I don't think running your air from the compressor through PCV pipe is a good idea.  You can run everything you have off that compressor. I run my airbrush from a 8 gal. compressor on my back porch through air hose down to my basement area for painting, with a regulator for the airbrushes that I use, much more quiet too.

 

Good Luck

Wayne

I agree.  Plastic PVC pipe that is sold in the big box stores, the white stuff, is not made for constant pressure.  As it ages, it become brittle, and that's not good.  

If you want to use it for multiple stations, put a brass shutoff valve at the compressor, and only turn the pressure on when you need it.  Just be careful when you're changing locations with your hoses that you don't torque the fittings.

[ayetti]

I'll check on this, thanks for the heads up. I was gonna do schedule 40 but maybe I'll step it up to schedule 80? I've still got some time to think about the final setup for the shop while my neck and shoulder heal. Ive got the airbrush and paints on the way. Honestly I'm so excited to paint that I'll end up setting up in my office for now. My shop needs some pretty serious work done before I can start setting up in there. 

 

Edit: just googled it, you guys are right! Looks like the correct choice is a pipe that's a combination of aluminum and hdpe (almost looks like pex from the outside). It's a little bit more $ than pvc but it's not unreasonable. 

 

Thanks for pointing that out 

Edited May 2, 2017 by ayetti

[SW Lures]

If its permanent piping use any type of screw hard pipe that is capable of taking your maximum psi plus more. PVC is differently not the way. With that size compressor, I would think that you will be using it for more than just airbrushing. To put in metal pipe you will need some specialty tools. I dont know if thats worth it for you.

Always think your project thru and use appropriate materials.

Dale

[mark poulson]

You can make a manifold with several separate female air fittings right at the air compressor, just past the regulator, and use compressor hoses, which are designed to hold pressure, as your distribution lines.  With a couple of hose clamps and fittings, you can even mount a hose along the edge or back of your work bench and put connection points wherever you need them.

That way, you have a distribution system with components that are actually designed for compressed air, instead of having to adapt something else, and it's really easy to do.

[SW Lures]

Mark I didn't like the size of the home made manifold, by using scewed fittings. You can, but to buy a block manifold was the way for me.

Dale

[mark poulson]

2 hours ago, DaleSW said:

Mark I didn't like the size of the home made manifold, by using scewed fittings. You can, but to buy a block manifold was the way for me.

Dale

Dale, 

Good for you.  I would have bought one if I had known they were available.

I just used a bunch of air fittings I had left over from work.