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Painter1

Herring Head Underspin Problem

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I'm loving the HH under spin but the wire form comes loose too easily.  Mostly I have only used the 1/4 oz size so maybe the larger ones will have better grip.  I am using soft lead and thinking a harder material may help.  I've never added any additive to lead and would welcome any thoughts 

I also  plan to bend some wire to make a different wire form and see how that works.  

 

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Harder lead may help, painter. I get by with 50/50 pure lead/wheel weight mixture in most of my molds. If I start having problems with the pour, I enrich the pot with more lead. I also demold by grabbing the sprue with a set of pliers not by grabbing the wire form. This can lead to problems. Hope you get it worked out.

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I use alloy of lead and 3-5% antimony from Roto metals. I calculated the difference in density and weight between pure lead and the alloy and it is negligible.

https://www.rotometals.com/antimonial-lead-metal-3-5-antimony-lead/

Works great on small jigs and underspins.

Some people say to add a wheel weight...but I've heard a lot of stories about contamination.

Edited by DaBehr
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On 4/29/2017 at 5:43 PM, Painter1 said:

I'm loving the HH under spin but the wire form comes loose too easily.  Mostly I have only used the 1/4 oz size so maybe the larger ones will have better grip.  I am using soft lead and thinking a harder material may help.  I've never added any additive to lead and would welcome any thoughts 

I also  plan to bend some wire to make a different wire form and see how that works.  

 

I have some really nice lead i use for hardner. Let me know and I'll send you some at cost. I think it's high in tin as it doesn't tarnish and it makes lead flow better. 

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I made some larger underspin and the problem (wire pin pulling out) was even worse.  The fish loved them but they were destroyed after a single bite. 

So I ordered the lead with 5% antimony from robometal, emptied the furnace,  refilled with that Lead/antimony alloy material.  The problem now is the mold won't fill all the way down the hook shank.  I heated the mold but no joy.  

There nust be a ratio of soft lead to the alloy lead that provides the flow & hardness needed for this.   Any suggestion in that regard are most welcome.  

I discovered that the wire form HS-34 for 3/4 ounce hammered spoon, can be used in lieu of the semi-useless wire form WE525 or WE375.  The loop end fits and the wire can be halved, bent & trimmed to fit the particular size mold. 

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Painter1:

        First and foremost,  are you using "Drop Out" , if not get some. Many of your pouring problems if any will disappear. If you have never used it you will Thank me later.

      Second, if you have a Lee bottom pour pot, crank it up to #9, and when it is done heating, stick the mold sprue hole up and onto the  pour spot nozzle. This will force the mold to fill. Sort of like injecting lead into a mold. This has helped save the day for me many times. Let me know how it goes for you.

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Thanks, Ted.  All my molds are sprayed with drop-out, but that is a good reminder to recount them from time to time.  I us the 20 lb (green) furnace bought from a ammo making site - can't recall name but I have it cranked to 900.  

It appears that I will need to make my own wires that wrap over the hook in order to get the durability I'm seeking.   

We took about 40 of these baits to El Salto in Mexico recently and were using the 3/4 & 1 oz baits in lieu of 8XD crank baits for deep fish.  The big girls loved them with a size 4 willow blade  but they were hard on the baits., tearing out most of the wires. We did catch some 8-9 lb Bass, though the 3 & 4 lb fish did most of the damage. 

Currently 50/50 use of soft & ant-lead is working if I keep the mold VERY hot, but am now bending my own wires, .042 stainless from McMaster Carr with Boggs wire bender for the loop.   I haven't field tested them yet but hope to soon. 

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