Do-It Midwest Finesse Jig Mold with Wire Keeper

[cadman]

I am looking for an alternate hook for this mold other than the Owner #5313. I am looking for a #1 hook in the 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8 oz cavity with a direct replacement hook with no mold modificationss. Any help would be appreciated.

[Basseducer]

Cadman, I have been using the Eagle Claw 570BP series and they work fine.

[smalljaw]

I've used the 570BP as well as the Mustad 32746. The only difference with the light wire hooks is you get a little bleed between the hook and the keeper but it actually helps the keeper from getting loose. I also have used the Gamakatsu 604 but only in the 1/0 size and that fits as well.

[kmsnowman]

I use the Owner 5101 Ted.

[cadman]

Thank for the info guys?

[smalljaw]

15 hours ago, kmsnowman said:

I use the Owner 5101 Ted.

 

You mean you use the 5318, the 5101 number is the product number LPO uses for that hook. It is the 90 degree light wire super needle point, LPO never put the actual hook number down but it is a 5318. I figured you should know that in case you see them on sale somewhere and that way you know that is the hook you are using.

Edited May 3, 2017 by smalljaw

[Apdriver]

I'm thinking about adding this one to my collection and learning to fish it. Anyway, here's what The Barlow Bros. say will fit it. Many thanks to them.

[walleyeking]

I've used 1/0 matzuo sickle hooks in sizes up to 1/8

[Apdriver]

I read somewhere that too large a hook will kill the action of the small baits typically used in this technique. As a rule, I generally like big strong hooks for Largemouth but realize this technique may not be suitable for the largest hook I can shove in the cavities. So, what hook size seems to be best for you guys making and fishing these jigs? I need to order some supplies and don't want to make a mistake (like I usually do).

[Basseducer]

Go with what the mold calls for.

[smalljaw]

2 hours ago, Apdriver said:

I read somewhere that too large a hook will kill the action of the small baits typically used in this technique. As a rule, I generally like big strong hooks for Largemouth but realize this technique may not be suitable for the largest hook I can shove in the cavities. So, what hook size seems to be best for you guys making and fishing these jigs? I need to order some supplies and don't want to make a mistake (like I usually do).

 

I think the 5313 from Owner is a compromise, it is a 1X strong hook made for those who want to finesse fish but use tackle that is generally too heavy. For my part of the world and dealing with smallmouth in clear water I find the EC 500BP Lil Nasty in a size 1 works well, a size 2 works great for not getting hung but you ill lose a fish every now and again. I also like the Mustad 32746 and the EC Laser Sharp 570 BP, they have it marked with an "L" in front of the number.  The reason the 5313 is so good is because the hook is strong but it is very sharp so it won't bend out using heavier tackle and the sharpness will penetrate even if you are using line as light as 6#. A 1/0 can be used but I think the best hook size to use is a #1 and that is because it is long enough to get a good hook set but it still allows more than half the bait to move and with a light weight head the worm will have some subtle action. A 1/0 is ok but I can see a difference in how the worm reacts when falling.

[Apdriver]

Thanks for the replies fellows. A special thanks to Smalljaw for some great input. I went ahead and ordered 100 #1 5313 and some 500BP lil nastys in various sizes. I know the Owners will be nice but you sure pay for those puppies. No wonder Cadman wanted alternatives. I'll use the 500BP's for my pals and I'll keep the 5313's:-). Now I'll have to figure out how I want to produce a plastic that will stand up on these small heads. I've got a couple ideas.

[cadman]

Just to bring you guys up on my final decision on all of this here, this is what I have decided on. If I were to pour these for myself, I would use the #5313 hooks as recommended by Do-It.  Reason being is this. The 5313 hook is a 1x strong hook and it is very light in weight to its size ratio, even if I put a 1/0 on the 1/16 oz head. I did this project solely for one customer. He wanted this head style because it has a keeper, however he wanted a 32746 hook. I will tell you this, that with a 32746 hook, the jig falls differently in the water. It has more of a dead drop to it. The 5313 has more of a slower dancing fall. Naturally you add the trailer to it and it is a whole different story.

 Now I fit the 570 in there, and although it is lightweight, I am not a fan of bronze hooks, let alone aberdeen hooks for bass fishing. Paranoia I guess.  The 570BP would be my choice if I would go that route.  All said and done my customer wanted something other than what I would use, but that's why they order custom. Who am I to tell them what they want.

 

Finally one thing I did not like about this mold is using a keeper in the 1/16 oz head. What a  P.I.T.A. Is everyone else having problems with the keeper coming loose in the head after pouring? Other than painting the jig to hold the keeper in better, what are some other solutions? Glue, Epoxy?

Thanks to all for all the help and input.....................Ted

Edited May 9, 2017 by cadman

[Basseducer]

cadman,

I try everything I can to paint them, but when a customer insists on raw lead I put a drop of super glue where the hook and keeper come out. Like paint I can't guarantee how long before it comes loose again, but at least it was tight when it left my shop.

 

[cadman]

48 minutes ago, Basseducer said:

cadman,

I try everything I can to paint them, but when a customer insists on raw lead I put a drop of super glue where the hook and keeper come out. Like paint I can't guarantee how long before it comes loose again, but at least it was tight when it left my shop.

 

 

I can see this is/could be a potential problem. I think I will put a disclaimer on the 1/16 oz jigs, like you stated " Bait keeper on the 1/16 oz jigs may fall out due to mold design. All jigs leaving our facility have been checked before shipping however constant use may loosen the bait keeper up, causing it to fall out."

I hate putting in disclaimers, because people think that you don't know what you're doing, but if I don't let them know or explain it to them, I'll be getting a  butt load of complaints and or return for credit. I would rather tell the customer up front and not sell any, than to sell them and get complaints.

When I looked at the 1/16 oz head in this mold, I had a feeling it was going to be a problem with the bait keeper in the mold. The mold hardly holds the hook in place let alone a hook and a bait keeper.   Ugh!

Edited May 9, 2017 by cadman

[DaBehr]

I have NO problems with the bait keeper falling out if I use the 3-5% antimony lead mix from Rotometals. The antimony makes the lead harder.

The difference in weight (due to the density of antimony) is only in the 100ths of an oz . for the small baits! (if my math was correct!) so for all practical purposes, the weight is not affected for small jigs.

I also cast all of my small jigs with keepers with this mix (for example the Herring Head) and it makes a big difference.

Andy

 

 

[fshng2]

Just now, DaBehr said:

I have NO problems with the bait keeper falling out if I use the 3-5% antimony lead mix from Rotometals. The antimony makes the lead harder.

The difference in weight (due to the density of antimony) is only in the 100ths of an oz . for the small baits! (if my math was correct!) so for all practical purposes, the weight is not affected for small jigs.

I also cast all of my small jigs with keepers with this mix (for example the Herring Head) and it makes a big difference.

Andy

 

Wow, Small change Big difference.

You are a Genius!

[DaBehr]

Wow, Small change Big difference.

You are a Genius!

 

No...not really.....there are a couple threads on the Do-it site that mention it!  Marc (PartyCrasher) is the expert and I do whatever he suggests! (like make and use blade baits!!!).

Andy

[fshng2]

That's what I like about TU and other threads.... a lot of good info out there.

[smalljaw]

Yep, using a harder alloy will help but even when using the 3%-5% antimony that I use from Rotometals  I can still have the keeper or the head get loose if I don't paint it. If you read the inside of the mold they say right there that they recommend the use of hard lead for the small sizes.

[dblades]

All my custom spin molded ned heads use a  #2 Lil Nasty,  anything bigger kills the action  IMHO. I also have no head heavier than 3/32,  above that I go to a shakey head.

Edited June 30, 2017 by dblades

[wadsword]

I am using the Owner 5318. My customers love them.  They are a very sturdy hook for light wire.  The hook up ratio is outstanding.  I use a 2/0 on the 1/16 and 3/32 ounce, and a 3/0 on all the rest.  The larger sizes fit well when paired with the Z man TRD (I believe 2.75") used green pumpkin heads and a green pumpkin TRD. Included is a picture of one of the many smallmouth bass I caught in June, 2017 at the St. Lawrence River, in the Alexandria bay, NY area.  5lb. even on my Mustad digital scale.

Dan Wadsworth Sr.

Old Hippy Custom Bass Jigs

[Apdriver]

Very nice, Dan. Also, I will add,you sir make some very nice jigs. Nice website that I have looked at in the past. I like the way you set up your photography and the background for your jigs. Been in my bookmarks a long time. Glad to see you posting here. Welcome to TU.

[wadsword]

Thank you for the kind words, Apdriver. I enjoy making and designing jig patterns, and my business is really just a hobby for me.  I try to make the best quality possible, sort of old school in my approach.

[walleyeking]

Just to add to the info. I've been using VMC 9147 hooks in the Midwest finesse mold and they fit great.