Tutorial Herring Head Underspin Variant

[Painter1]

I have had poor results using the standard wire form for the Herring Head Underspin Molds.  Following is the detailed method that is working better.  

First - buy the wire forms made for use 3/4 oz hammered spoon mold.  

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Mold-Wire-Forms/HS-Form-Inserts.html

Next - gather the following tools as shown in photo including Wire Cutters, Kline Pliers, Round Nose Pliers, Sharpie

Cut the wire form in half

insert hook into mold. (Note: I am using the Owner 5318 size 3/0  with a 3.5 inch "Keitech Fat Swing Impact" style Swimbait, because it puts the line tie very close to the jig head and the thin wire hook allows easy and consistent hook-ups by simply reeling through the bite and "leaning" on the rod some. )

Lay wire in mold with the loop closure gap facing forward and straight portion across the hook

Mark the intersection of the wire and the hook with a touch of the Sharpie. 

Bend at the Sharpie mark with the Kline pliers to a 90 degree angle, then use round nose pliers to extend the bend a bit more into a slight hook angle.   Cut off excess wire.  It is Okay for the wire to stand up a bit off the hook. 

I am using a mixture of 60% soft lead & 40% "AntLead" (contains 3-5% Antimony) to harden the lead and better hold the wire in place. 

Some trimming  around the hook eye is expected.

[cadman]

Painter,

    That is a great idea. I was just looking into buying more wireforms, but your idea is simple and above all a money saving tip. So for about $5 in new wireforms, I can make 200 "Painter" style wireforms. Thank you very much for sharing.

[fshng2]

Nice mod... this wire form can't pull out.

 I imagine you close the wire loop after installing the blade.

You also said to lay wire in mold with loop closure gap facing forward. This should further prevent loosing the blade.

[Painter1]

You do have to close the loop , and can either squeeze to overlap or just gently close with Klines. 

I have received so much help on this forum it is a pleasure to be able to contribute back. 

[fshng2]

8 hours ago, Painter1 said:

You do have to close the loop , and can either squeeze to overlap or just gently close with Klines. 

I have received so much help on this forum it is a pleasure to be able to contribute back. 

 

Couldn't agree more....a very helpful  group!

Your mod could also be made with longer or shorter posts to accommodate different blade lengths.

I'm always interested what others are doing with underspins.

Post pictures of your finished work.

 

 

[jthod]

PERFECT!!!!

Thanks you so much for this write up.

I've been using the standard wire forms, and even after adding tin and upping the head to help with retention, I was having issues with them falling out.

I absolutely hammered the Hybrid Bass (wiper) this weekend on them, along with walleye, white bass, largemouth, and a couple SLAB crappie.  I've been running the 1/2oz with a Pearl White Zoom Fluke.

[fshng2]

Jthod nice Hybrid Bass, how big do they get?

I am really getting into the underspins, and you can't beat the Painter1 mod.

[Painter1]

Great job! Thanks for posting that.  

[Painter1]

It may be presumptuous for me to offer advice on fishing this underspin, but if using the thin wire Owner 5318 hook, as I do, a hard hook set has proven to be a mistake.   We fish this on clear water Ozark reservoirs with a 3.5" Keitech Fat Impact style swimbait ( bass tackle ringed paddle tail mold) and therefore typically use light line to facilitate getting the bait to deeper depths. 

The hook easily penetrates, even at distance, with a steady retrieve through the strike.  Often there are multiple "bumps"  before the fish actually has the bait.  When positive weight is detected we just "lean on" the rod a bit, while continue reeling, as opposed to a hard set.   Hard hooksets have resulted in flesh tearing and loss of good fish when they jump and throw the bait.   

We size the blade to the Threadfin Shad that are the main forage; 3.5 is most popular, with a 3/0 hook .   We also like that the Owner 5318 (5418) use results in the eye being very close to the head, (see picture) causing the bait to swim more horizontaly, as opposed to a canted angle.  You have to be vigilant in placing the hook, though, and usually do some trimming there. 

 

 

 

 

 

[fshng2]

8 hours ago, Painter1 said:

It may be presumptuous for me to offer advice on fishing this underspin, but if using the thin wire Owner 5318 hook, as I do, a hard hook set has proven to be a mistake.   We fish this on clear water Ozark reservoirs with a 3.5" Keitech Fat Impact style swimbait ( bass tackle ringed paddle tail mold) and therefore typically use light line to facilitate getting the bait to deeper depths. 

The hook easily penetrates, even at distance, with a steady retrieve through the strike.  Often there are multiple "bumps"  before the fish actually has the bait.  When positive weight is detected we just "lean on" the rod a bit, while continue reeling, as opposed to a hard set.   Hard hooksets have resulted in flesh tearing and loss of good fish when they jump and throw the bait.   

We size the blade to the Threadfin Shad that are the main forage; 3.5 is most popular, with a 3/0 hook .   We also like that the Owner 5318 (5418) use results in the eye being very close to the head, (see picture) causing the bait to swim more horizontaly, as opposed to a canted angle.  You have to be vigilant in placing the hook, though, and usually do some trimming there. 

 

Thanks Painter1, good to know.

[Darkman]

Brilliant just brilliant. Is it possible for you to show a picture on how it all should look in the mold, before closing it to pour, I'm having a hard time seeing which way the wire bend goes. You made this bait so much better and the saving alone is worth it

thank you for sharing

[gaspumper]

According to his directions the bend goes up,I don't think it would matter up or down as long as the open eye was facing to the front of jig.You could even have it u shape and go around the jig  then it would never pull out.

Edited June 21, 2017 by gaspumper
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[fshng2]

3 hours ago, gaspumper said:

According to his directions the bend goes up,I don't think it would matter up or down as long as the open eye was facing to the front of jig.You could even have it u shape and go around the jig  then it would never pull out.

Agree gaspumper.

As long as the U shape goes around the hook it doesn't matter which way it is orientated.

Face the open eye to the front like the picture. This prevents loosing the blade.

This is such  a  great idea.

Painter1 should submit it to Do- it Mold as a product improvement. 

 

Edited June 21, 2017 by fshng2

[Painter1]

You got it.  Don't tell Do-It - they will raise the price on the spoon wires, lol

[fshng2]

10 minutes ago, Painter1 said:

You got it.  Don't tell Do-It - they will raise the price on the spoon wires, lol

Ha ha.

Loose Lips Sink Ships!

Since it was your idea, I'll let you tell em.

 

[Mr B]

Awesome idea, thanks.  I have been debating on what to substitute for this one.  How is the wire diameter on the Spoon wire?  It appears a bit thinner.  Have you noticed it bending easier?  Even if it does, I guess that's beer than it popping out of the head, if it can be bent back wit hout breaking.

[fshng2]

2 hours ago, Mr B said:

Awesome idea, thanks.  I have been debating on what to substitute for this one.  How is the wire diameter on the Spoon wire?  It appears a bit thinner.  Have you noticed it bending easier?  Even if it does, I guess that's beer than it popping out of the head, if it can be bent back wit hout breaking.  

 

The wire form is stainless and my guess is a .030 diameter wire.

(A 4/0 Owner hook is .044 dia wire)

 I will bet you a cold one,  if this bends which is unlikely, you can bend it back and it will not break.

Edited June 28, 2017 by fshng2