Sudd Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 I'm using alumifoam for hardbait bodies, I need a paintable mold release that will insure it good paint contact so I dont have to paint directly to the urethane foam because it will not hold with the oil in the foam. Any ideas of paintable mold release? Prefer white but dont have to be as long as its paintable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 I would contact the foam manuf. and ask them what to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 Just now, mark poulson said: I would contact the foam manuf. and ask them what to use. I have sent an email in to alumilite but have not heard back yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 google paintable mold release agent. There are tons of them out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 23 hours ago, Sudd said: I'm using alumifoam for hardbait bodies, I need a paintable mold release that will insure it good paint contact so I dont have to paint directly to the urethane foam because it will not hold with the oil in the foam. Any ideas of paintable mold release? Prefer white but dont have to be as long as its paintable I am still confused SUDD, I have never had any "oil" or other residue from Alumifoam. I did the original testing on it when it came out and the stuff is awesome stuff, about the density of cedar but tough as nails. I prime the lures as normal and have no issues. I would love to know more, and you can always PM me. You can also call Mike at Alumilite directly. He can be swamped with emails. When I am trying to speed up the process on any pour, I just spray the mold with any rattle can primer and when I pour it chemically and mechanically bonds to the resin or foam. Last, you an also do as Hughesy suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 5 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said: I am still confused SUDD, I have never had any "oil" or other residue from Alumifoam. I did the original testing on it when it came out and the stuff is awesome stuff, about the density of cedar but tough as nails. I prime the lures as normal and have no issues. I would love to know more, and you can always PM me. You can also call Mike at Alumilite directly. He can be swamped with emails. When I am trying to speed up the process on any pour, I just spray the mold with any rattle can primer and when I pour it chemically and mechanically bonds to the resin or foam. Last, you an also do as Hughesy suggest. What kind of paint do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 Krylon. I use any of their primers that claim to bond to plastic because most of the time I am using Alumilite White and I get tired of priming several times with white to hide the ballast I have added before pouring. It sure speeds up the process if I prime the mold first then pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said: Krylon. I use any of their primers that claim to bond to plastic because most of the time I am using Alumilite White and I get tired of priming several times with white to hide the ballast I have added before pouring. It sure speeds up the process if I prime the mold first then pour. So you saying its best to just spray a paintable release agent in the mold and be done with it? Other than primer before paint Edited June 6, 2017 by Sudd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 For me, if I know that my ballast is going to be on the surface, it sure is. White paint is not the easiest to cover the dark gray or silver of lead anyway and some of my pours have the ballast so close to the surface that it an take 4 or 5 coats to hide it. Of course the ballast is at the belly, where we always want white anyway, so ........ I just hit the silicone mold with the white Krylon, let it dry, pour my resin or foam, and I get a nice white base to start my painting. Sometimes I still need to hit it once more with a white coat, but better one more then several more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 16 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said: For me, if I know that my ballast is going to be on the surface, it sure is. White paint is not the easiest to cover the dark gray or silver of lead anyway and some of my pours have the ballast so close to the surface that it an take 4 or 5 coats to hide it. Of course the ballast is at the belly, where we always want white anyway, so ........ I just hit the silicone mold with the white Krylon, let it dry, pour my resin or foam, and I get a nice white base to start my painting. Sometimes I still need to hit it once more with a white coat, but better one more then several more. Ok just talked to carol at alumilite, she recommended spraying the silicone mold with krylon primer let dry bout 10 min and then pour my resin and the paint would bond much better. But I'm wondering if i couldn't just airbrush a primer on after demolding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 You can, I use to do that. Airbrush primers are thinner and it took a lot of coats. The rattle can primer has more pigment and covers in one or two coats. Still, I have and still do just use Airbrush primers if I am not worried about hiding something like lead that is close to the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 2 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said: You can, I use to do that. Airbrush primers are thinner and it took a lot of coats. The rattle can primer has more pigment and covers in one or two coats. Still, I have and still do just use Airbrush primers if I am not worried about hiding something like lead that is close to the surface. Ok sounds good. Sorry I miss read what you said earlier and when I called she told me the exact thing you said. I bet you thought I wasn't trusting what you were saying, but I didnt mean that at all. Sorry if I came across that way! So I'm just gonna get a can of white krylon primer and spray my molds before I pour my foam and I will be good to go. Thanks for all the help! Still got to figure that lip out though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 No problems. You know what the good book says, by the mouths of 2 or more witnesses. LOL If you lived close to Northern Utah I would come by and together we would get if figured out. I know it can be done, but there are a lot of things to consider and products to test. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 1 minute ago, Anglinarcher said: No problems. You know what the good book says, by the mouths of 2 or more witnesses. LOL If you lived close to Northern Utah I would come by and together we would get if figured out. I know it can be done, but there are a lot of things to consider and products to test. Good luck. Yea we molded the perfect lip the exact one my uncles designed, we just got to have a pourable plastic that will get hard. I honestly think the water clear will work, I just haven't ordered it yet because of getting the body molds made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Remember, if you have a Hobby Lobby near, you can get a 40% of coupon and get the Water Clear from them. Just saying, Alumilite benefits, Hobby Lobby benefits, and YOU BENEFIT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 1 minute ago, Anglinarcher said: Remember, if you have a Hobby Lobby near, you can get a 40% of coupon and get the Water Clear from them. Just saying, Alumilite benefits, Hobby Lobby benefits, and YOU BENEFIT. Yeah I looked at my local hobby lobby but all they had in the store was amazing clear. I guess I could order it from HL and still get the 40% off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Bummer, I incorrectly assumed that if mine had it then they all had it. Sorry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted June 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 1 minute ago, Anglinarcher said: Bummer, I incorrectly assumed that if mine had it then they all had it. Sorry about that. No problem yeah I just checked online and its not even on their website. Stinks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
