Powder painting foam crankbaits

[Sudd]

Anyone ever tried powder painting foam crankbaits with an airbrush?  I know you can airbrush powder, but what m not sure is how well it would do with foam. I also know you would not be able to bake the foam in an oven to cure the paint. I did heat one up a bit and tap some powder on it. It seemed to do ok, but wondering too about doing it with an airbrush.

[fshng2]

15 minutes ago, Sudd said:

Anyone ever tried powder painting foam crankbaits with an airbrrush?

Sudd, I haven't painted a crankbait but LPO sells a spray gun for PP.

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Paint-Supplies_5/Powder-Paint-Spray-Gun.html

Edited June 13, 2017 by fshng2

[Sudd]

1 minute ago, fshng2 said:

Sudd, this will work.

http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Paint-Supplies_5/Powder-Paint-Spray-Gun.html

So its ok then to heat urethane foam?

 

[fshng2]

1 minute ago, Sudd said:

So its ok then to heat urethane foam?

Sudd, I haven't painted a crankbait but LPO sells a spray gun for PP.

I understand the industry is starting to paint wood with PP.

You may want to call someone in the PP business and get their recommendations.

[Sudd]

56 minutes ago, fshng2 said:

Sudd, I haven't painted a crankbait but LPO sells a spray gun for PP.

I understand the industry is starting to paint wood with PP.

You may want to call someone in the PP business and get their recommendations.

Thanks! I wonder too how long a 2oz bottle of powder would last spraying through a airbrush on small crankbaits. I'm trying to see if its worth it over using lacquer paint. Powder I know gives much better results and really a lot more color choices. 

Also can any airbrush be used for powder, or does it have to be a special one. I have a badger with adjustment on the back?

[BobP]

I don't see how you could effectively cure it unless maybe you used a special flash oven that would quickly heat the surface without heating the whole lure.  I think typical powder has to be melted at over 300 F.  And I disagree that powder has more colors than lacquer or acrylic paint.  Good luck with it but color me doubtful.

[Sudd]

1 minute ago, BobP said:

I don't see how you could effectively cure it unless maybe you used a special flash oven that would quickly heat the surface without heating the whole lure.  I think typical powder has to be melted at over 300 F.  And I disagree that powder has more colors than lacquer or acrylic paint.  Good luck with it but color me doubtful.

It was an idea I just thought of. But im still leaning toward Lacquer because you can thin it down and get much more for the money than powder. Am I correct on that? The colors I will be using I can et them all in lacquer except for Chartreuse, haven't seen it in lacquer yet.

[fshng2]

An interesting article.

Pulsed Infrared Light can be used to cure PP on low melt thermoplastics.

https://honeywell.com/sites/aero-kcp/SiteCollectionDocuments/CuringPowderPaintLowMeltTemperatureThermoplasticsTechSummary.pdf

 

 

[Sudd]

3 minutes ago, fshng2 said:

An interesting article.

Pulsed Infrared Light can be used to cure PP on low melt thermoplastics.

https://honeywell.com/sites/aero-kcp/SiteCollectionDocuments/CuringPowderPaintLowMeltTemperatureThermoplasticsTechSummary.pdf

 

 

Yeah but I'm talking about urethane foam not thermoplastic

[BobP]

I use acrylics vs lacquer so can't help much re thinning it.  Whichever you use, My experience is that painting a crankbait uses very small volumes of paint, small enough that my focus is getting the paint on the lure in the most effective way I can for the paint scheme I want to produce versus worrying about the very modest cost of the paint.  As far as chartreuse goes you can add small amounts of green into a yellow base to get any version of chartreuse you want.  For me, I prefer a clean Createx Neon Yellow to a real chartreuse color and I think most of the commercial "chartreuse"  baits I see are variations of plain yellow versus actual chartreuse.

[Sudd]

11 minutes ago, BobP said:

I use acrylics vs lacquer so can't help much re thinning it.  Whichever you use, My experience is that painting a crankbait uses very small volumes of paint, small enough that my focus is getting the paint on the lure in the most effective way I can for the paint scheme I want to produce versus worrying about the very modest cost of the paint.  As far as chartreuse goes you can add small amounts of green into a yellow base to get any version of chartreuse you want.  For me, I prefer a clean Createx Neon Yellow to a real chartreuse color and I think most of the commercial "chartreuse"  baits I see are variations of plain yellow versus actual chartreuse.

I understand exactly what you're saying, but I own a bait business and bringing back my dad and uncles crankbait design from the early 80s and I'm always looking for cost effective ways but still keep quality. If it takes spending a little more for better quality then thats what I will do. But if I can keep quality for less then thats even Better. Also back then they used lacquer on Their crankbaits. So thats another reason I keep thinking about lacquer. As I'm trying to keep it as original as I can.

[BobP]

I understand.  I don't build baits in a production setting, which is very different from a hobby setting.  You need to worry about economy of scale and most of all the TIME it takes for you to complete the various build tasks.  Most of the small scale production baits I see are painted with lacquer.  The original Suddeth builders turned out a good bait and they refined their processes over time as they learned the ins and outs of specific build steps and which products to use.  You need to do the same and learn the details from them.  Otherwise you are going to have a lot of missteps.  There may be new products and procedures you can integrate into your processes but first you need to learn everything about how "the originals" did it.

Edited June 13, 2017 by BobP

[Sudd]

12 minutes ago, BobP said:

I understand.  I don't build baits in a production setting, which is very different from a hobby setting.  You need to worry about economy of scale and most of all the TIME it takes for you to complete the various build tasks.  Most of the small scale production baits I see are painted with lacquer.  The original Suddeth builders turned out a good bait and they refined their processes over time as they learned the ins and outs of specific build steps and which products to use.  You need to do the same and learn the details from them.  Otherwise you are going to have a lot of missteps.  There may be new products and procedures you can integrate into your processes but first you need to learn everything about how "the originals" did it.

I cannot agree with this more! They have taught me a lot over the years and still are. They told me about lacquer but I just came up and thought about the PP I did try one this morning using PP with a makeup brush. It did look ok but I still think lacquer is much better looking on the foam.

[stretcher66]

• liquify your powder    <-click that

[SW Lures]

5 hours ago, stretcher66 said:

• liquify your powder    <-click that

As I read the description I notice that you still have to cure like normal, for the powder. However this can help me while painting blades, jigs etc.

[woodieb8]

have you approached vacuum plating. that process works very well as a base. and is very shiny. but once again its just a base that needs to be covered in a clear coat.