Paint BLeeding

[Super Ron]

Hey guys.   As you all know we experiment to learn.   My biggest experiment lately has been with using PolyTranspar paints.      But I have a small issue with the paint bleeding.

The paint goes on great.    I really like it.     It does not need thinning but I did had some glycerin to the bottle as I got tip dry super fast.    Now it's awesome

I use Envirotex as my top coat and have not had a single issue with it until the PolyTranspar.    The brushing of the epoxy causes this brand of paint to bleed.    It's not bad but as I wipe off the excess from my brush, you can see the epoxy has turned green, or yellow etc.    The effect is barely noticeable and I mean only someone who painted that lure would notice.     Is this normal for this brand of paints?  

I've tried to take Createx Transparent base and spray that as a topcoat before putting on the Envirotex but that did not change the bleeding.   Again it's very slight.

 

[BobP]

I haven't noticed that effect but then again, I don't use Etex which contains a solvent to promote leveling and bubble expelling.  How much brushing you do to apply the epoxy may also affect, as can how dry your paint is before topcoating.

[SW Lures]

I agree with BobP on the time between paint and top coating. I have had some issues with Wicked and Createx when I first started like this. I even had this after heat setting paints. I now allow time for the baits to set, normally 24-48 hrs. Too much heat will blister the paint, so I allow them to set at the end.

[Super Ron]

It does have something to do with drying.   Although I let them dry 24 before Etex.   However, I started to paint a few the other day but had to stop because guests showed up.   It was 48 hours later before I started to finish and the paint was still moist as it would come off on my hand.    I couldn't spray the polytranspar at first because of tip dry.   I wonder if I caused this by adding glycerin?

[mark poulson]

2 hours ago, Super Ron said:

It does have something to do with drying.   Although I let them dry 24 before Etex.   However, I started to paint a few the other day but had to stop because guests showed up.   It was 48 hours later before I started to finish and the paint was still moist as it would come off on my hand.    I couldn't spray the polytranspar at first because of tip dry.   I wonder if I caused this by adding glycerin?

I'd try it without the glycerin and see if it helps.  Maybe you can thin the polytranspar with something else to help with the tip dry.

[Anglinarcher]

2 hours ago, Super Ron said:

It does have something to do with drying.   Although I let them dry 24 before Etex.   However, I started to paint a few the other day but had to stop because guests showed up.   It was 48 hours later before I started to finish and the paint was still moist as it would come off on my hand.,,,,,,,   I wonder if I caused this by adding glycerin?

Yep, glycerin is doing it.  I make a thinner and I find that in a pint that I usually can only get away with 3 to 5 drops.  When I was in Louisiana, NO glycerin would work.  Glycerin retains moisture, and will actually suck it out of the air.  That is why it reduces tip dry on an airbrush, but too much causes lots of problems.

When I used glycerin in Louisiana, I found that I could dry the lure in an oven but I had to get it clear coated fast of it would start to soften the paint.

[MarkNY]

I'm certainly no expert but I do use polytranspar paint and etex together. One thing I always do is spray the lure before topcoat with etex gloss spray. Seems to work well for me. Haven't had any issues like you describe. Good luck, Mark 

[earthworm77]

I am using a copic airbrush because I lack the skill and patience you guys have.  I've noticed that with the Etex it does bleed a little when you brush it on. The issue hasn't been bad, it actually enhances some of the patterns I paint. It usually makes the bait look a little more natural in my opinion.

[mark poulson]

Some tip dry is inevitable with water based paints.  Using a good reducer, like Createx 4011,  to thin you paint helps cut down on tip dry.

Instead of trying to avoid tip dry with some kind of a thinner additive, try putting a tupperware full of water next to your paint station, with a wire holder on one side to set your airbrush into, so the tip rests in the water when you set it down.  It will cut down on tip dry, and having a tub of water handy for back flushing between coats and colors will keep you brush cleaner longer.

Edited July 16, 2017 by mark poulson

[SW Lures]

I agree with Mark about a reducer suited for the paint type. MARKNY makes a point about clears. Some clears doesn't work well with certain paints. A clear can pull against a painted suface as it cures. Finding a clear or using a paint manufacturers clear before a clear like Etex or KBS can help.

Adding glycerin to paint will not flash off (evaporate) like a solvent.  I can't find what transpar base paint you are using. This happening tells me most likely water base.

[troutbum7413]

I was a full time  fish taxidermist  for 7 yrs and I used poly transpar water base almost exclusuvely.  I love them and never had a problem. I took a 10 year break and just recently got back into it. The fish i painted looked great, but when i glossed them, any thing that had polytranspar orange, yellow or dark bass green and intense red the poly paints bled right through the gloss. I had to re detail several fish as i used those colors heavily, and i made sure i let the first flash coat cure. Still bled through and turned all my whites to whatever color. It seemed to only happen with the transparent paints, which i use alot of. Never had that happen before i gave it up. Going to experiment with some sealers