Bubbles

[Anglinarcher]

9 hours ago, mark poulson said:

 

Getting back to the OP's problem, sounds like that Alumifoam is a great product.  Can it be machined like wood, so ballast and hardware locations can be changed, without ruining the bait?

Not so much.  It can be machined just fine, but that exposes open bubbles.  I normally do my work with other materials until I have it down pat, then I switch to the Alumifoam.  when I trim off flashing or do minor repairs I use wood filler then finish from there.

Because it is so consistent, at least the way I do it, once I get it dialed in I normally pour with ballast and hardware already installed.  It takes a couple of minutes to trim off extra flash, touch up the bait where exposed bubbles show at the pour hole, etc., then I can start painting.  In fact, I have primed the inside of my mold with paint then poured so all I need to do is prime the repaired spots.  OK, another topic for some other day.

[Anglinarcher]

8 hours ago, DoubleT said:

 

I'm interested in how consistent it will be from lure to lure.  If two lures are constructed in the same manner will they act the same? It is apparently some super tough material once fully cured.  

Yes, very consistent. 

I use a pour hole and cut in vent holes at key locations.  Because it expands 2x, you mix it accordingly, plus a little.  I then pour it in and tilt or rotate the mold to coat the entire inside of the mold as it starts to expand.  Once it is expanding I just set it down the same way every time.  It expands to fill the mold, expands out the pour hole and vent holes, then cures fast.  You trim off the excess, touch it up with a wood file or sandpaper, fill with wood filler as necessary, touch up with sandpaper if necessary, prime and paint.

Once you get the hang of using this stuff, you will be convinced you are cheating.  LOL

One warning though, the stuff does not give you time to relax, it fires off very very fast.  I mix I quick, don't worry about bubbles, just mix it like a wild man.  It will mix, then turn like a thin coffee, and then you pour, don't wait, once it darkens like coffee, you POUR, then I rotate my mold...... see above.

[DoubleT]

1 hour ago, Anglinarcher said:

Once you get the hang of using this stuff, you will be convinced you are cheating.  LOL

 

I like the sound of that. Resin and microballoons have been somewhat of a challenge for me. I probably overthink a lot of it and get a little carried away with the details but I strive to get consistency. If it were a surface type bait it wouldn't concern me as much but since it is a sub surface glider I want it to be right. 

1 hour ago, Anglinarcher said:

don't worry about bubbles, just mix it like a wild man. 

 

That I can handle. lol. Nice that bubbles aren't a concern. Once set up, its full of bubbles for that matter. 

Would there be any issue with drilling the holes in the belly and inserting the weights? I would epoxy them in place and fill in over the weight with wood filler and sand smooth.  Attaching the weights to the internal harness sounds like a great idea but I'm not sure that I am ready to take that on yet. I made a jig that I use to drill the weight holes in the same location each time and so far it has worked rather well. 

I read on line that the mold can also be sealed/capped off to create some back pressure as the foam is expanding. It appears that will increase the density. Any need to take that route or should I just allow it to partially expand back out the pour hole? From what I see on the Alumilite site and remember from your graph the density is appears to be about right when allow to expand in the open. He was whacking it with a hammer and barely denting it. Thanks for the help.

[Anglinarcher]

Ya, that was probably me with the hammer.  I think Larry Dahlberg may have also done it also.  If you have a link, maybe I can say for sure.

Back pressure on the Flex foam will increase the density, and the 320 and 610 will increase some, but the Alumifoam is so strong that I have never been able to get it to "pack".  I am sure it could be done, but I doubt a Silicone mold can hold it.

I advise, for consistency, to just let it expand out the pour and vent holes.

Yes, you can drill it and place the hardware and weights.  I have my current stuff down to where I jig it up the stuff to save some time, but then decided on an updated design that I think will swim better.  Go figure, as soon as  I get it right, I decide it is not right enough.

Just get the small container of Alumifoam to learn with first.