Pouring tin

[SMBLifter]

So I'm jumping in guys. Ordered my first mold (Do-it's MFJ-6-A Midwest Finesse Jig) and was wondering on thoughts to pouring pure tin? I understand the expenses of tin but my thinking was the 1/16 mold looks tough to pour with the keeper and hook held by that tiny piece of lead and the flimsiness. So with tin being 2/3 dense as lead I would then pour a 1/16 oz weight jig head in the 3/32 mold and so on and so forth. Is there anything I should know about pouring tin before I start? Tricks for this mold? I have no experience pouring jigs so any input is appreciated!

[cadman]

Not to be pessimistic, but if you are set on pouring this mold with bismuth/tin, I would advise against it. First of all the keeper barely holds on when you use lead especially in the really small size. So in my opinion this is a task that I would not even think of doing.  Second, that alloy is so hard, that you will either have really good success getting the jig out or you will fight with it trying not to destroy the jig head. In my experience, the latter is more common. If you get to the point of actually  getting good heads, painting may be an issue. You can hand paint them without any problem, however using powder paint will be a challenge. Bismuth/tin has a very low melting point, and it will usually melt if you decide to try powder paint. However if you paint and bake  way below the melting point, than you should be OK. Finally, if you use Drop-out for a mold release, it works great for lead, not so much for tin/bismuth. To me it seems that when tin/bismuth cools it expands a lot making it very tight in the cavity. Just and FYI but almost all the lead free jigs I pour are a b$$$h to get out of the cavity except for the round head jigs. I hope this helps some.

 

All said and done, if you want to go for it let us know your results, I'm curious.

[Will Wetline]

Welcome to TU, SMBLifter! I lift a few smallies myself, and quite a few good ones this season with the Midwest Finesse ("Ned")  jig head attached to them.

Since 2012 when Massachusetts prohibited the use of lead jigs and weights weighing less than an ounce, I have been experimenting with bismuth/tin alloys. I've settled on 88% bismuth/12% tin for some molds; ball jigs are fine with this as is Do-it's Herring Head and, yes, the Midwest Finesse ("Ned") jig head.

Since you're just getting started, let's look at your first concern:

Be safe! Wear goggles and gloves. Work in a quiet environment and only when you're clear-headed, not after beers with the boys or with playful children, pets, or agitated adults around.  And do not rush the process of casting molten metal. Please forgive the lecture; although casting, once you've got the hang of it, is fun and satisfying, it's got to be serious business to avoid painful injury.

Also in this photo is Drop Out release spray which is helpful with everything and a necessity if you want to get a bismuth/tin casting out of the mold! It's available from barlowstackle.com.

Now let's look at the devilishly-difficult-to-handle wire forms (bait keepers) for the Midwest Finesse mold:

After fumbling and cursing trying to settle these little parts into the mold for the first couple dozen pours, I experienced an aha! moment: find a small magnet.  Simply orient the wire form on it properly and, using your thumb, push it off into the mold. Place the hook next to it and then nudge both together so all is properly seated. Yes, this does take time and patience. I'm sure that cadman, whom I greatly respect for his expertise and generosity in sharing his knowledge will back me when I say be patient with your work and practice. Then practice some more.

Onward to tools:

L -R: tool handle with magnet on end, lineman's pliers and slip joint pliers. I use the linemans to grip the head (not the sprue) of the casting and pull it up and out.  Use both to remove the sprue.  The alloy,

https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-88-bismuth-12-tin/

is hard enough so you wont mar the jig head.

If you're wondering what's with the big screwdriver, that tells me you haven't read the instructions that came with  Lee's Production Pot IV. (Presumptuous of me to assume that's what you've got for a melter, huh?) It really helps to stick it in the slot at the end of the plunger and turn it to stop or at least minimize dripping.

A batch of Midwest Finesse jig heads in various stages of production:

There are 1/16 oz, 3/32 oz. and 1/8 oz. jigs pictured.  I've read that the above linked alloy is about 85% the weight of lead. I've used the 3/32 oz. probably 95% of the time to get to my smallies at depths of 10' - 20'.

What else? I've had no problem with the hook keeper loosening in this alloy, even in the 1/16 oz. head. 

Give the mold another coat of Drop Out after 3 - 4 dozen pours. From Wikipedia: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification."

Even though the Owner 5313, size 1/0 hook is far more expensive than the Eagle Claw "Lil Nasty," I prefer it because the points don't turn nearly as easily when retrieved through rocky habitat.

That all may be more than enough for now so I'll close by once again welcoming you to Tackle Underground.

[cadman]

11 hours ago, Will Wetline said:

Welcome to TU, SMBLifter! I lift a few smallies myself, and quite a few good ones this season with the Midwest Finesse ("Ned")  jig head attached to them.

Since 2012 when Massachusetts prohibited the use of lead jigs and weights weighing less than an ounce, I have been experimenting with bismuth/tin alloys. I've settled on 88% bismuth/12% tin for some molds; ball jigs are fine with this as is Do-it's Herring Head and, yes, the Midwest Finesse ("Ned") jig head.

Since you're just getting started, let's look at your first concern:

Be safe! Wear goggles and gloves. Work in a quiet environment and only when you're clear-headed, not after beers with the boys or with playful children, pets, or agitated adults around.  And do not rush the process of casting molten metal. Please forgive the lecture; although casting, once you've got the hang of it, is fun and satisfying, it's got to be serious business to avoid painful injury.

Also in this photo is Drop Out release spray which is helpful with everything and a necessity if you want to get a bismuth/tin casting out of the mold! It's available from barlowstackle.com.

Now let's look at the devilishly-difficult-to-handle wire forms (bait keepers) for the Midwest Finesse mold:

After fumbling and cursing trying to settle these little parts into the mold for the first couple dozen pours, I experienced an aha! moment: find a small magnet.  Simply orient the wire form on it properly and, using your thumb, push it off into the mold. Place the hook next to it and then nudge both together so all is properly seated. Yes, this does take time and patience. I'm sure that cadman, whom I greatly respect for his expertise and generosity in sharing his knowledge will back me when I say be patient with your work and practice. Then practice some more.

Onward to tools:

L -R: tool handle with magnet on end, lineman's pliers and slip joint pliers. I use the linemans to grip the head (not the sprue) of the casting and pull it up and out.  Use both to remove the sprue.  The alloy,

https://www.rotometals.com/lead-free-bullet-casting-alloy-88-bismuth-12-tin/

is hard enough so you wont mar the jig head.

If you're wondering what's with the big screwdriver, that tells me you haven't read the instructions that came with  Lee's Production Pot IV. (Presumptuous of me to assume that's what you've got for a melter, huh?) It really helps to stick it in the slot at the end of the plunger and turn it to stop or at least minimize dripping.

A batch of Midwest Finesse jig heads in various stages of production:

There are 1/16 oz, 3/32 oz. and 1/8 oz. jigs pictured.  I've read that the above linked alloy is about 85% the weight of lead. I've used the 3/32 oz. probably 95% of the time to get to my smallies at depths of 10' - 20'.

What else? I've had no problem with the hook keeper loosening in this alloy, even in the 1/16 oz. head. 

Give the mold another coat of Drop Out after 3 - 4 dozen pours. From Wikipedia: "Bismuth expands 3.32% on solidification."

Even though the Owner 5313, size 1/0 hook is far more expensive than the Eagle Claw "Lil Nasty," I prefer it because the points don't turn nearly as easily when retrieved through rocky habitat.

That all may be more than enough for now so I'll close by once again welcoming you to Tackle Underground.

 

 

Good write up, I will have to revisit this mold. I have had very poor results with the Midwest Finesse Jig mold in regards to bismuth/tin. I have also had not seen any better results with Drop-Out in bismuth/tin. I will tell you that everything you have said is soo true. Patience is a virtue with this mold. Everything seems soooo small and hard to work with. I am going to clean this mold again and re-apply Drop-Out. Maybe there wasn't enough in the cavity.  Thanks for the added info. Just so many variables with every mold that we have to pour.

Edited July 11, 2017 by cadman