Need help finding or making a lure

[jayk3lly]

Meed help finding a lure.  its a discontinued soft plastic made by a Georgia based company thats not around anymore. i have two of the original lures. and need help finding more or making a mold for them so i can make them myself. will pay for a mold. the company is "Rattlesnake Tackle Co. McDonough Georgia"

[Travis]

If you are dead set on it being the same then molding your last two lures is the best bet.  Various trick worm style molds out there.

[Anglinarcher]

https://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/61/

That will get you where you want to be.  Other videos on Alumilite's site, Makelure.com are also available.

So easy to get started you probably don't want to pay one of us to make the mold for you.

 

[Travis]

If one is having to cut your baits out of a sheet of over pour you need to reevaluate your procedure.  

[Anglinarcher]

Lots of ways to do it, and I bet Travis can even offer constructive suggestions.  Little disappointed in your response Travis, but perhaps I am reading it wrong.

Personally I would use a little contact adhesive like rubber cement and glue the baits to a glass plate.  The baits can easily be removed and saved because the rubber cement will peel off.  I would make a box around the baits, then I would seal the box with hot cement at the bottom.  I would pour Alumilite HS3 over the worms.  12 to 18 hours later I would remove the box, peel the silicone mold from the glass, peel the worms from the mold, and I now have an almost perfectly formed open pour mold. 

I believe this shows that best.  http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/123/

For a better mold but harder to do, I could also embed the worms half way into synthetic clay, build the box, pour the top half.  12 to 18 hours later I would then remove the mold half, leaving the worms in the Silicone and remove the clay.  I would turn it over in the box, coat the silicone with a good mold release, like either UMR or Petroleum jelly, then pour the top half.  12 to 18 hours later I would remove the mold, separate the two halves, cut some pour groves and some vent groves and you now have a perfect mold.

I believe this shows that best, starting about 2:10 into the video.  http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/39/

Or, you could take the last option and cut an injection grove in the head end and a vent grove in the tail end and inject them.

Or, you could make a one piece mold of Alumilite Trans 40.  You would suspend the worms in the middle when you pour them.  Then you could cut with a razor knife to remove the worms.  Because you can see through the transparent Trans 40 you can cut just short of the worms and surgically remove the worms undamaged.

I believe this shows that best.  Just use the Trans 40.

http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx  is the main tutorial link and there are a lot of good techniques shown.  Take the time to go from bottom to top and you will find that it is not that hard to come up with easy and great options.

All of these videos are also on YouTube, and there are tons of good videos on YouTube as well.  It is just so easy to do this. 

If there are videos you specifically need, I am trying to do some now.  I am not that great of a TV or MOVIE personality, so don't expect perfection, but let me know if there is something you specifically need to see and I will see what I can do.

[Travis]

Just found it humorous that the time and effort was taken to make mold then the pouring method used.   Someone new to pouring might think this was normal.   

I agree he would be best off making his own mold if an exact replica is needed.  As mentioned making a mold is easy to do but some guys just can't do it.    

  

 

[Frank]

Someone who's looking for an exact mold of a bait will not be happy with a flat on top of the bait. Maybe it's just me but there are some real close looking worms out there if you just look. Looks the treat worm from Basstackle in full round and you will see what I mean. 

[DaBehr]

I would  agree that the Bass Tackle Treat Worm will be darn close ! I have a couple sizes of the  Treat Worm and they are great. Very good molds.

Press the easy button and get it! 

For example:

http://www.basstackle.com/6_Treat_Worm_p/165-kj-4.htm

[jayk3lly]

18 minutes ago, DaBehr said:

I would  agree that the Bass Tackle Treat Worm will be darn close ! I have a couple sizes of the  Treat Worm and they are great. Very good molds.

Press the easy button and get it! 

For example:

http://www.basstackle.com/6_Treat_Worm_p/165-kj-4.htm

 

do they float?

[DaveMc1]

5 hours ago, jayk3lly said:

 

do they float?

 

That has absolutely nothing to do with the mold but rather everything to do with the material (specific plastic compound) you use to make them. 

[jayk3lly]

10 minutes ago, DaveMc1 said:

 

That has absolutely nothing to do with the mold but rather everything to do with the material (specific plastic compound) you use to make them. 

 

no i was asking about the baits he linked

[DaveMc1]

He linked you to Bass Tackle who provides molds, not baits. 

[smallmouthaholic]

20 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

Lots of ways to do it, and I bet Travis can even offer constructive suggestions.  Little disappointed in your response Travis, but perhaps I am reading it wrong.

Personally I would use a little contact adhesive like rubber cement and glue the baits to a glass plate.  The baits can easily be removed and saved because the rubber cement will peel off.  I would make a box around the baits, then I would seal the box with hot cement at the bottom.  I would pour Alumilite HS3 over the worms.  12 to 18 hours later I would remove the box, peel the silicone mold from the glass, peel the worms from the mold, and I now have an almost perfectly formed open pour mold. 

I believe this shows that best.  http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/123/

For a better mold but harder to do, I could also embed the worms half way into synthetic clay, build the box, pour the top half.  12 to 18 hours later I would then remove the mold half, leaving the worms in the Silicone and remove the clay.  I would turn it over in the box, coat the silicone with a good mold release, like either UMR or Petroleum jelly, then pour the top half.  12 to 18 hours later I would remove the mold, separate the two halves, cut some pour groves and some vent groves and you now have a perfect mold.

I believe this shows that best, starting about 2:10 into the video.  http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto/39/

Or, you could take the last option and cut an injection grove in the head end and a vent grove in the tail end and inject them.

Or, you could make a one piece mold of Alumilite Trans 40.  You would suspend the worms in the middle when you pour them.  Then you could cut with a razor knife to remove the worms.  Because you can see through the transparent Trans 40 you can cut just short of the worms and surgically remove the worms undamaged.

I believe this shows that best.  Just use the Trans 40.

http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx  is the main tutorial link and there are a lot of good techniques shown.  Take the time to go from bottom to top and you will find that it is not that hard to come up with easy and great options.

All of these videos are also on YouTube, and there are tons of good videos on YouTube as well.  It is just so easy to do this. 

If there are videos you specifically need, I am trying to do some now.  I am not that great of a TV or MOVIE personality, so don't expect perfection, but let me know if there is something you specifically need to see and I will see what I can do.

Another lengthy reply that wastes time and $ to get the end results. Get a custom ,precision CNC injection mold made or like Travis states, research all the trick worm molds available today for a fraction of the cost of a custom mold.

 

[Anglinarcher]

9 hours ago, smallmouthaholic said:

Another lengthy reply that wastes time and $ to get the end results. Get a custom ,precision CNC injection mold made or like Travis states, research all the trick worm molds available today for a fraction of the cost of a custom mold.

Fortunately you did not need to read the results.  Additionally, I question that the cost of doing the above is more then a custom CNC mold.

As for Travis's comment about the trick worm molds available, yes, lots of them.  I am not sure the Rattlesnake fits the "trick" mold worm but that term has  never been defined to the best of my knowledge. 

I am glad that we have the freedom to disagree on this site.  I guess the summer heat has some people a little hot under the color.  LOL

[Travis]

Trick work pretty much generic term for that shape bait flat or round as long as I have been fishing but things change and may not be that way now.   I do always think of flat however and still fish flat way more than the round.  

Del's diamond tail mold is also very similar to what you are looking for.  I still have one of the molds floating around.  Did have a pic of some of the baits also. 

 

 

Edited August 6, 2017 by Travis

[Anglinarcher]

38 minutes ago, Travis said:

Trick work pretty much generic term for that shape bait flat or round as long as I have been fishing but things change and may not be that way now.

 

Ya, by that definition, I could call any worm from the old Jelly Worm to Sinkos to Rattlesnakes a trick worm. 

I am not putting down the definition, I am not sure I can do any better.  I see any worm that has standard density (only slightly buoyant to neutral density without hook) and is straight, as a regular worm, and anything else as a "trick" worm.  And, quite frankly, my definition is too broad. 

I guess I don't see the Rattlesnake as a trick worm, and yes, I have fished them.  I also know, from my own experience, that they do fish different then the ones that are shown from Del's Diamond mold, but that is not necessarily better or worse.  I also think, that for the most part, they don't catch fish any better, because, for the most part, it is the fisherman and he/she uses the worm that makes all the difference.

But, the Sinking worms were a game changer, the high floating worms were a game changer for me, .........

The thread was about getting a mold that was less expensive then a custom CNC and would be as close to an exact duplicate.  I provided options that will work well for a hobbyist.  If they are trying to produce enough to sell, well there are some options above that will work, but a custom CNC is finally going to be the way to go.

Edited August 6, 2017 by Anglinarcher

[Baitjunkys]

I did not see anything in the op. That refrenced looking for cheaper then a cnc mold. Seems like that got added to the mix.

Edited August 6, 2017 by Baitjunkys

[mark poulson]

Check these out from Bass Pro:

http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-floatin-worm

[Anglinarcher]

23 hours ago, Baitjunkys said:

I did not see anything in the op. That refrenced looking for cheaper then a cnc mold. Seems like that got added to the mix.

Not sure where I got that from.  My Bad.

[Anglinarcher]

22 hours ago, mark poulson said:

Check these out from Bass Pro:

http://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-floatin-worm

Pretty close, only jayk3lly  can know for sure.  I don't remember the Rattlesnake as being a floating worm, but it has been a while for me.

Good eye.

[MonteSS]

"Trick worm" is a patented name by Zoom. Same as "Senko" is a patented name by Yamamoto.

I consider a "trick" style worm to be a straight worm that tapers down in the back and has a bulbous tail. Can be full round, oval, or flat bellied.

I cant imagine that "Rattlesnake" lure being much different than the molds currently available. None will fish that much different than the others. 

Now makbe the "Rattlesnake" uses different plastic which obviously would make it different than the standard plastic.

[Baitjunkys]

Trademarks not patents.