Greenhornet Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 This is my first post. I've been browsing around for quite some time and I felt like it was time to give back to the community who helped get me started in soft bait making. After much trial and error I have been wanting to put out some info about 3D printed molds, First, you don't need a super high tech printer to make a good bait mold. The printer I started with was less than $170. Most CAD software worth having can be had for FREE to a hobbyist( I recommend Autodesk Fusion 360). With that being said, most frustration for me has come in the form of learning to design in a virtual space. If you can do that you have it licked. If you are new to CAD, youtube is a wealth of info but I promise YOU CAN LEARN!!!! On to the details: (Steam-lined) #1.Printing open pour molds is surprisingly easy. PLA is very capable of holding up to the rigors of pouring softbaits. Settings that seem to work well for me are 1.4 mm wall thickness with at least 20% infill. Perhaps printed molds have a shelf life however with over 125 documented pulls on my double cavity, open pour, chunk mold I think for personal use it more than does the job ( I have the file stored to print a new mold if needed, which takes roughly 2.5 hr print time). #2 If you want to make a custom mold for yourself the cost to quality cant be beat. #3 I have found injection molds I printed to be less than stellar. I have had more luck designing a 2 piece mold in two sections and the making a silicone mold of each side, then injecting. With this process it allows you to have a mother mold which you can reproduce as many times as you would like. #4 Sometime printing a actual model and then making a silicone mold is a good option #5 If you don't own a 3D printer their are plenty of 3rd parties that can print you design at reasonable prices I'll be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Attached Pics are my chunk mold with a printed chunk that I made silicone molds off of as well as a two piece mold with masters 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted August 14, 2017 Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 About time you showed up my friend . Welcome to Tackle Under Ground . Looking forward to your posts . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landry Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Very cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitaker201 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 You can also check for Prototype bars and Makers Space companies for local hands on 3D printers available with people there to help you learn how to use them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kamillion Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Will 3d molds hold up to the heat in pouring ? What about Jig head pouring ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenhornet Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 (edited) Printing with 20% infill molds have held up just fine for pouring both hand poured and injected plastisol. I think silicone is a better option for larger runs with injection molds. Standard printing will not hold up to lead. DMP or Direct Metal Printing may be a better option. I don't have any experience with DMP as base models still run $50k and up. A cnc milled aluminum mold seems to be more cost effective at this point than DMP for simple lead molds. I priced having some jig molds DMP and it was several hundred bucks. Machining is still expensive but I would rather have a experienced mold maker (machinist)to possibly catch a flaw in my drawing vs a tech just printing it. Hope this all makes sense. Any more questions? Edited August 17, 2017 by Greenhornet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kamillion Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 Yes that makes sense..thank you for the response..may be a way to go as for making your own molds..Thanks John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I also use No3 for two part molds. I also design my mold master so that the two halves are identical, this way I only need one 3D printed master. Also, because all the silicone halves are identical, I don't need to match them as they are all the same. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) I design my molds with the injector built-in. For the first pour, I block off the exit of the injector cavity, and then fill the injector. This gives me my injector piston. Probably not a good idea for hot plastic, but I only pour resins, for which this method works perfectly. Dave Edited August 18, 2017 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBehr Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I REALLY wish you hadn't posted this! This is too cool not to try! Oh well, it's only time and $$ ...and it's a long winter up here in Minnesota! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenhornet Posted August 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 Let me know what you need bro.... I'm here to help. This is to push creativity for the community. I'd be happy to print some things for anyone needing to do some prototyping! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) 13 hours ago, Greenhornet said: Let me know what you need bro.... I'm here to help. This is to push creativity for the community. I'd be happy to print some things for anyone needing to do some prototyping! That is an amazing offer. I hope someone takes you up on this opportunity. Good attitude I will chip in with some free CAD design work if anyone needs it, to support the above offer. DAve Edited August 19, 2017 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 I have had a 'taker ' for my offer. But unfortunately my work situation has changed, and paid contract work has to take precedence. My customer understands the situation, and I fully intend to fulfill my offer, and the shrimp will be delivered, but timescales are out of my hands. Regretfully, I have to withdraw the offer for anyone thinking of taking me up in the near future, but I may well open the offer again. I find this work interesting and challenging, even comparing with my normal work as a car designer. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmtexas Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 I have been thinking about this for a while.. I have 3 printers at the house, and would gladly do some experimenting for some folks. I have a few bait mold I have created, and may have to try my luck with them soon. I have 2 cnc mills in the garage as well.. Anyone have any designs they would like me to try and print? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basscatlildave Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Those 3D molds look awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Arnies Tackle Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Thanks for posting this - good to see some warm reception. This is what actually got me into lure making. 3 printers later I am still addicted. I recently went to an SLA printer and cannot believe the level of detail! good call on the thickness. I have been getting away with 1mm on ABS on 4.5" open pour baits. I am going to make a huge 10" one and will let you know if it takes the heat!!! also - check this guy on out Grabcad. He has a ton of cool models ready to print: https://grabcad.com/cooler-3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OIR Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 (edited) Vapor Smoothing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh60wlF-Opk https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=pla+acetone my setup on PLA is just a airtight plastic box and in it I got a small chopping board on 4 legs and below is a rag I put some acetone on and I use Sketchup Pro (youtube got a lot of how to) https://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-free Edited July 8, 2018 by OIR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
