DoubleT Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 I did some research and didn't see much about Minwax Wood Hardener as a sealer. Have any of you folks had any success with sealing wood with it? I'm hoping it will soak in and seal the wood and also give it more durability. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 I tried it years ago. It works for one piece wooden baits, as long as you have a really strong, flexible top coat like Envirotex epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) Research the salt-water,surf casting sites to see what they use. Marine spar varnish thinned w/ paint thinner works http://www.saltwaterplugs.com/saltyforum/index.php?topic=2285.0 Here's another one for you- Edited August 16, 2017 by smallmouthaholic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleT Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 4 hours ago, mark poulson said: I tried it years ago. It works for one piece wooden baits, as long as you have a really strong, flexible top coat like Envirotex epoxy. Thanks for the info. I have a one piece wood bait and I use Envirotex so I hoping for the best. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 28 minutes ago, DoubleT said: Thanks for the info. I have a one piece wood bait and I use Envirotex so I hoping for the best. Use two coats of Etex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 (edited) DoubleT, Minwax Wood Hardener works great. Cheap, brush it on or dip it. It seals the eye holes also. Hang it nose up if dipping and put a bent out paper clip on the tail hanger. Let it set for a day and sand it lightly (400). To make sure of something....we are talking about sealing the wood not the paint job right? If you are it's great for sealing the wood. More course wood I may wood put on more. I work with more dense wood. I put two coats on. It soaks into the wood on the first coat. I've got a few baits that are several years old, no water intrusion yet. I plan on using these in the spring, Striper run/spawn. I also test baits with this on it only. Dale ps, it does harden the wood. I took a framing hammer and gravel driveway on non finished and finish wood. You'll be happy with it. Edited August 17, 2017 by DaleSW Adding comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleT Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 38 minutes ago, mark poulson said: Use two coats of Etex. Will do. Thanks Mark 18 minutes ago, DaleSW said: DoubleT, Minwax Wood Hardener works great. Cheap, brush it on or dip it. It seals the eye holes also. Hang it nose up if dipping and put a bent out paper clip on the tail hanger. Let it set for a day and sand it lightly (400). To make sure of something....we are talking about sealing the wood not the paint job right? If you are it's great for sealing the wood. More course wood I may wood put on more. I work with more dense wood. I put two coats on. It soaks into the wood on the first coat. I've got a few baits that are several years old, no water intrusion yet. I plan on using these in the spring, Striper run/spawn. I also test baits with this on it only. Dale ps, it does harden the wood. I took a framing hammer and gravel driveway on non finished and finish wood. You'll be happy with it. Thanks for the info Dale. I plan on dipping it to seal it. I am going to let it soak 10 seconds or so then hang it to dry. I may do a couple dips to apply a heavier layer. I will then scuff it up some with 400 grit, prime it then airbrush it. I use etex for my top coat. Again, Thanks for the info. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 This got me thinking. I bet that using a vacuum chamber and wood stabilizer would work very well. Hmmmm, to bad I don't work with wood that much anymore. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted August 17, 2017 Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 (edited) Fellas-read the links I provided. Brushing on is a joke. Complete submersion allows you to watch all the small bubbles come from all the pre-drilled holes and eye sockets .Once they stop(2 - 5 minutes) you can remove and hang. Let completely dry for a day or 2 and then submerge again. You will see some additional ,very small bubbles(almost like foam) come up. Let dry thoroughly for 3-4 days and now your wood is ready for priming and painting- then finish coating w/ your favorite epoxy. Edited August 17, 2017 by smallmouthaholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleT Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 4 hours ago, Anglinarcher said: This got me thinking. I bet that using a vacuum chamber and wood stabilizer would work very well. Hmmmm, to bad I don't work with wood that much anymore. I thought about a vacuum chamber as well. Then I started wondering if sealing the wood that way would change the buoyancy of the wood by drawing the sealant in so deep and give me inconsistent results. Im probably overthinking it. 2 hours ago, smallmouthaholic said: Fellas-read the links I provided. Brushing on is a joke. Complete submersion allows you to watch all the small bubbles come from all the pre-drilled holes and eye sockets .Once they stop(2 - 5 minutes) you can remove and hang. Let completely dry for a day or 2 and then submerge again. You will see some additional ,very small bubbles(almost like foam) come up. Let dry thoroughly for 3-4 days and now your wood is ready for priming and painting- then finish coating w/ your favorite epoxy. I plan to use this method. The sealant that I am using has a 2 to 4 hour dry time so I hope to be able to seal and prime in the same day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) I would give it time from my experience. Something went wrong on some wiooden baits when I started making wooden baits, I take mine time and let each part cure. Sealing over night, paint scheme over night and top coat maybe several days. But when I'm at full speed making baits this doesn't interfere at all, there is to much going on to slow me down, Assembly line type building. This fall I'll start again. I've never seen aby air bubbles in this sealer. A slow stir and go in a few minutes. Heck it doesn't separate anyway. No stirring really needed. I keep it mason jars and labeled. Dale One more thing if you don't put them on a turner (if dipping), make sure you turn the baits slowly in the solution. You mentioned Etex, which makes me think you are using a turner. I use KBS and I do this with that. Air pockets can stay in the drill/hanger holes with the hangers in place. This solution will dry pretty quick to touch. Let me know what you think. Edited August 18, 2017 by DaleSW Added to comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 1 hour ago, DoubleT said: I plan to use this method. The sealant that I am using has a 2 to 4 hour dry time so I hope to be able to seal and prime in the same day. A solvent base sealer needs time to dry thoroughly!. If you think they are dry put them in a jar w/a lid. Open in 5-15 minutes and smell. Don't rush a primer and multiple coats of finish paints after sealing. Anything good takes time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 2 hours ago, smallmouthaholic said: A solvent base sealer needs time to dry thoroughly!. If you think they are dry put them in a jar w/a lid. Open in 5-15 minutes and smell. Don't rush a primer and multiple coats of finish paints after sealing. Anything good takes time. This was my experience, too. It takes a while for all the solvent to off gas, because the hardener is wicked so far into the wood. Don't rush it, or your paint scheme will be ruined by bubbles when you heat dry your paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleT Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Thanks for the help. You guys are right. No need to rush it. I will let them dry for 24 hours with hopes that they will be completely dry/off gassed. I dont want to take a chance at ruining my paint scheme thats for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 You can try hitting them with a hair dryer to help drive out any left over solvents after each dip has dried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) Well I agree with letting baits totally dry. Just try it DoubleT, give it time to dry. I've been using this product and for over two years. After using it I never thought about anything else. Just do a few and you'll know what I'm telling you. Other than me I have never seen anybody here using it. PM me once you give it a try. Take care Edited August 18, 2017 by DaleSW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I've also used wood hardner for sealing to allow ballast adjustment in water, but once I fit the ballast I seal again with epoxy. I've found the 1 part wood hardner doesn't really harden the wood much and leaves a kinda tacky, almost uncured feel. I suspect this is because it's designed to be able to be applied to damp rotted wood. The vacum stabilising method massively effects buoyancy anglingarcher, and you can't really predict where it's likely to happen on the blank ...glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 This one doesn't feel tacky after full curing Gliders. I wrote about this when I first started. I put a bait underwater under water over night. Gauge the moisture of the lure in different location and found it to be the same as it was before. Y'all should remember my days of a Mad Scientist. Everything did had to be proven. Either way it doesn't really matter, I'll just keep on keeping on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Hi dale, for sure ,if it works it works ! The stuff I use is a different brand name over here, but when I done some research it appears to be much the same product, I could definitely be wrong though ! It definitely seals out water and it is handily quick to use and dry. Like mark noticed, when coated with e-tex and heat gun used for busting bubbles, air from inside the blank can force itself out through the hardener causing a stream of tiny bubbles in the e-tex occasionally. Like I said, maybe the stuff you're using is different , if it works it works!...glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleT Posted August 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I just picked up a half gallon mason jar and a couple more cans of the hardener today. Do you guys suggest applying all of the screw eyes and belly weights/bondo first or would that be something you suggest doing after it is sealed? Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 After it is sealed double T. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 Meant to mention, drill holes for screw eyes prior to submerging ....glider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 18, 2017 Report Share Posted August 18, 2017 I do all my hardware except for the bill. I want everything to be sealed in place. Becuase I don't do anymore to the sealing. Two coats normally creates a shell over the bait. This is when I sand. Howdy old buddy! Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 By the way, it goes a longgggg way. If you are putting out a lot of baits, you may be good. Still I would like to know your opinion DoubleT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted August 19, 2017 Report Share Posted August 19, 2017 How you doin dale, catchin plenty I hope ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
