jbrandon47 Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 I know I'm probably opening a can of worms here but I need advice on the best clear coat for finishing my baits after they've been painted. I want the paint job I put out to be an equal to what you find at the stores. This seems to be a big secret. I started out using water based paints, and 2 part epoxy as a finish. Then moved on to the different MCUs (DN, Garco, Diamond, etc..) and they just aren't like what you get from large scale manufacturers. What are they using?!? Is it a secret MCU receipe? Is it automotive finish? Oil paints? I've stayed away from oil paints and automotive finish for the health reasons but am open to ideas. Please help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 Personally, I think an MCU is like a factory finish in terms of clarity, thickness, and toughness. Two part auto urethanes also look and behave similarly but the toxicity is very high. If there is a secret factory crankbait topcoat, don't you think someone would have mentioned it by now? I do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 I use epoxy for the wood or larger size lures (muskies) and KBS for the small plastic lures. You will just have to settle on what works for you, it might take some time, but I just settled on these two for me, I gave up trying this or that it drove me nuts. When you settle in you will find ways to use it more efficiently , and better looking. Good Luck! Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 jbrandon47, This is one you can do a search on TU for. Almost the exact same question is asked about 3 times a year, and almost the exact same answers are given. I believe it was Einstein that said something to the effect that "insanity is doing the exact same thing and expecting a different result". Now, if you need instructions on how to do a search on Tackleunderground, that is one I feel we can help you with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 4, 2017 Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 I think a lot of commercial builders use lacquer paints instead of water based. Of course, changing over means basically having to relearn how to paint baits and how to protect yourself from lacquer fumes. Production building crankbaits on a large scale is a whole different world from hobby building, and it has never interested me. Too much hard work for limited gain, IMO. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbrandon47 Posted September 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2017 Anglinarcher is kinda rude huh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 2 hours ago, jbrandon47 said: Anglinarcher is kinda rude huh. Not normally, but you did push a button with me this time. Sorry, but seriously, we can help you with the search feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 2 hours ago, jbrandon47 said: Anglinarcher is kinda rude huh. I don't think so. Many members here get tired of answering the same questions over and over again, when one can find most of the answers by taking the time to use the search feature. That's what it's there for. The short answer is the "best clear coat" is the one that works for you and the way you build and paint. Just like using the search feature, it involves putting the time and effort to learn. I normally don't comment on personal attacks, but you are way out of line, and you owe Anglinacher an online, public apology. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbrandon47 Posted September 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 Ha. It's okay but I'm new to the site, as I am sure many if not all of the people are, who upset you guys and write the "stupid, redundant, should have known better" posts. As a newby to TU I've found this site completely awesome. However, for someone who's not used to the layout yet it's pretty tough to navigate. I didn't even know I could simply search for this question. Personally, until now I thought this site was a gold mine. A place where I could come and ask anything and get an answer from someone with more experience than me and certainly not worry about being attacked for asking a stupid question. If you get so tired of answering the same questions over and over, why do it then? Skim over it and keep going, or politely inform the newby looking for help that they can use the search feature to find past answers to this exact question. Mean people suck. Be awesome, don't suck. Can't we all just get along? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) I look at it this way. Yes there is a search feature and yes we can use it. If we do this than a interesting question may not get asked. New ideas get quieted and we dont learn, yes I believe that all of us should and can always learn. If y'all would not have answered my questions I may not have stayed here and gone back to just painting plastic blanks. If I'm just reading and came up with a question and get back to the forum I may not ask or remember to ask. I know what some of you are saying because I feel like that sometimes, but I thought about this and went with the question(s). WE should never make someone feel unwanted here at TU. I think we should have a post at the tops of the forums that reminds new people to use the search and how to use it (pinned). WE should always be polite to someone looking for knowledge. Refer to the pin post and request after the person searches and still has a question please return and ask. Some are not computer savy and I'm one of them. It's not what you were trying to say, it's how y'all come across. I hate this type of communication, because your true thoughts can be interpreted wrong, but it's the best we got. Don't be here so long that you get rude! Jbrandon 47, I dont have time right now (work) to answer your question and I know my opinion on this is not in most. This evening I will reply to your question. I was going to yesterday but my pad went out (battery). Shame on y'all, Dale Edited September 5, 2017 by DaleSW Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 (edited) Don't worry about it. If not for the same questions the site wouldn't really exist. To be honest we could probably "pin" about 10 topics in hard baits and 10 in soft plastics and edit all the small talk out of it and have the lions share of the information. No big deal just the way it is. Some have been here a long time and can almost verbatim answer you question as a dozen different users. Joe uses Devcon on everything, Pete only uses Etex, Jim uses whatever rattle clear they have at Wal Mart, Mark uses Dick Nites, Luke uses Solareze, etc... What you hope is that something new pops up within the usual responses. Everyone is different so sort of have to do your research on the guys to find out more about them. You may find some guys advise not having much merit based on your needs and other guys are gurus. You can also ignore a user and can be a nice feature depending on how upset you get. Some guys get their feathers ruffled easily and this sort of stuff just works them up into a frenzy. Others see it as a website of strangers and could care less. If you hover over the individuals name a window will appear at the bottom is an ignore user button click on it and you can have that user essentially disappear from existence, you can always reinstate the user. On some sites it will also block them from posting on any thread you start. Edited September 5, 2017 by Travis 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted September 5, 2017 Report Share Posted September 5, 2017 What wrote before I lost it was. I'm like BobP probably lacquers. With these you have the risk of flammable and health issue. Heck some manufactures could even have an special brew.. Manufactures of course are not going to let that out. Manufacturers put a heck of a lot of money to protect the employees from these issue....well at least in the USA. I have to ask you do you want a lower glass/wet look? If so, maybe someone here can help you with this besides me. I use Rustoleum Crystal Clear rattle cans to get away from that deep glass look. About 5 coates usually does it. I've used D2T, Diamond and perfer Diamond now for the glass look. You know you can get a matte type clears. Like Travis stated we use about everthing that you don't like. Soooo..we have not a lot for you. Travis, your first sentence says it all. Keep asking questions, but search first and we'll help you in the right direction if we can. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 7, 2017 Report Share Posted September 7, 2017 If I were looking for a clearcoat for lots of baits at a time, I'd be looking for a clear that I could dip versus spray. Either a 2 part catalyzed auto clear or a MCU like KBS Diamond spring to mind. Especially true if you are finishing plastic baits like knockoffs manufactured in the Far East that usually need the diving lips coated to cover sanding marks. MCU will not adhere well to polycarbonate lip material but works great on regular plastics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted September 8, 2017 Report Share Posted September 8, 2017 years back when we had contract work for wholesale companies. we did bomber 9-a,25-a models,also luhr Jensen hot lips,power dives. the top coat clear was ,clear acrylic sprayed. for custom builds nowadays we use transtar clear..transtar automotive gives the best gloss,durability over clear acrylics....this is on plastic baits. on woods the process changes..we used to do Blakemore trouble shooters by the garbage bag ,grrr,same process. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
