Tuning baits before or after paint?

[Matt Jackson]

So when do you test and tune your blanks? Before or after paint? I would like to test them before they are painted but will the additional weight of the paint and epoxy effect the way the bait runs? Almost all of the 2.5 square bills have to be tuned to run properly. Or am I over thinking this? I would hate to give or sell a bait to someone and it runs sideways with them not knowing how to tune a bait. 

[mark poulson]

Tuning a 2.5 before it's painted and top coated will get you really close.  Fine tuning it after paint and top coat, once you've done the first tuning, if it's  needed at all, is easy after that.

[BobP]

I don't tune baits until I fish them.  I don't sell baits but the guys I give them to know they'll need tuning before use.  Basically I feel anyone that fishes a custom wood bait should know how to tune it.  If it's a kid, I'll tune it before he gets it.

in my experience, it doesn't matter if it's tuned before or after painting and topcoating.  

Edited September 12, 2017 by BobP

[jonister]

I like to make sure my hack job, hair brained ideas work before I paint them and probably make them look worse than before. That being said with blanks you can probably just tune after paint. I guess if you tune it before hand you would he assuring it swims and isn't a dud though. 

[DingerBaits]

Tune them after they are painted and cleared with all hardware on. Baits will run different with different clear coats, hooks, split rings. Everything you do to a bait will change the action in one way or another. 

[Matt Jackson]

Thanks for the replies. Here is another question. I ordered some 1.5 square bills and premium 1.5 square bills. They are the same blank but the only difference I can tell is that the premium baits are a little more clear and the regular ones are a little more cloudy. Is this the only difference? Once dunked in acetone I can't tell the difference. Does anyone know what constitutes a premium blank compared to others? 

 

The one on the left is regular and the one on the right is premium. Or so I think. 

[DingerBaits]

Matt,  They are two different manufacturers. You can tell by the type of plastic and by looking at the internals and there are small details taht are different. The only reason why those are clear is because they were dipped in a sealant/clear to ensure there is no water intrusion and it gets rid of the sanding marks for the most part. Be careful with dipping them in acetone for it will eat away some of this sealant/clear.

 

[SW Lures]

Dinger would know...! Dinger what do you think about soft abasive scouring with dish detergent (very small amount), with a alcohol prep cleaning at the end on regular blanks? We do this for fusing plastic pipes and what I have been doing. I'm looking to get some of your holographic baits, wondering if it would hurt them.

Thanks

[DingerBaits]

To be perfectly honest, I have never cleaned a blank before I paint. Most of the time I use a primer for plastic or a self etching primer. Whiping the blank down with alcohol shouldn't hurt the blank at all. Long exposure to acetone will eventually destroy the bond between halves or make the plastic more soft than it should be. The Holograph on most blanks is a heat transfer film, so keep it to a minimum. I don't think I am a big fan of the dish soap unless you make sure the blank is completely dry before you paint. not all blanks are completely water tight until there is paint and or clear on top of it. Not sure i answered everything, but hey I tried.

[Matt Jackson]

Thanks for the reply and the tips!