RCBS Pro Melt Hot Pot Problem.

[WidowMaker]

I have acquired a RCBS Pro Melt with not many hours of use on it and I'm getting  numerous short pours on the Do-It Bullet Bass Jig.  I have heard some of the newer RCBS Pots are  not built as well as the older models but this particular RCBS Pot is about fifteen years old. I'm using a lead mix that is soft enough that short pours should not be occurring but I'm getting a lot of short pours on the collar section of the jig.
I am not pouring multiple loaded cavities per individual mold shot but rather I am pouring one cavity with one hook and base pin per individual mold shot. The only time I'm not getting a short pour is when I pour into the blank cavity next to the hook and base pin loaded cavity. I am pouring the blank cavity next to the loaded cavity once every other shot in order to heat the loaded cavity to prevent a short pour.
I am also keeping the pot at least 3/4 of the way full and placing the tip of the discharge barrel down into the gate of the mold and "injecting" the lead into the mold cavity to keep the air temp from cooling the lead  before it enters the mold cavity.
I'm turning the thermostat all the way up but yet I'm noticing the surface of the lead isn't turning colors in the pot. With the other pots (a RCBS Pro Melt and a Lee 10 pound pot) when the thermostats are turned all the way up the lead always changes colors. With this RCBS Pot being turned all the way up there is no dis-coloration of the surface of the lead. Also I'm noticing that the mold isn't heating up to as high of a temperature as it would do with the other pots. I should not be having to turn this pot up to the highest setting to do pours.

I also noticed that the red light inside of the on/off rocker type switch will not always be lit up when the switch is turned to the "on " position.
I am plugging this pot directly into the wall outlet and not using a extension cord therefore its not a case of losing power loss due to cord length. 
NOTE FOR THE INEXPERIENCED:  IT IS NOT SAFE TO USE AN EXTENSION CORD WITH A LEAD POT.

I'm wondering if it might be a problem with not enough power being supplied to the electrical outlet.
Either that or it is an issue with a faulty thermostat.
I'm not too familiar with electricity so I don't know how to check the amount of current going to the electrical outlet.
Any advice to offer in solving this problem???

 

[andy1976]

I would make sure your mold has drop out mold release. Also leave the mold on the top of the pot over the lead to heat it up.  The main issue is likely the temp of the mold. I have some very difficult collars to fill and generally if the pots turned all the way up and the pots hot I dont have any issues. 

[smalljaw]

Did you try adjusting the flow rate by turning the set screw to allow the plunger rod to lift higher? As for the lead temp, well that doesn't sound right but the only way to be sure it isn't getting hotter is by using an infrared thermostat or an immersion probe to get an accurate temp of the lead. The light on the switch will go off from time to time, once the lead hits temp the unit will shut off until the temp drops and it will turn back on again and the red light will be on. Being that the unit is 15 years old there is a good possibility the thermostat or heating element may not be 100%, I know you said it had low hours but remember that it is still 15 years old and unless you know exactly how it was used or the true amount of hours on the unit, you are just taking someone's word that it had low hours, someone who wanted to sell the unit so they may be motivated to make it sound like an even better deal. So try adjusting the flow rate and get a temp gun, $25 is what they cost but it will let you know if your lead is getting up in temp or just staying the same.

[Basseducer]

Sounds like all the usual suspects have been covered. What I have found that works for me once all the above have been tried is to heat the hook. I load the cavity with the hook and base hole pin and wave a mini torch over the hook for a few second, close and pour. NOTE: The first couple of times you might get some sizzling if heating a cold mold develops moisture in the cavity And sometimes it spits..

[WidowMaker]

Thanks for the information guys and I appreciate it.

I bought the pot from someone I know well and I remember when he purchased it. He is big on jig fishing and used it to pour bass jigs for his own personal use where he had bought a two thousand count of each size 1/0  2/0  3/0  jig hook and that's all the use the pot has had on it.
I remember he always kept it on a shelf in a temp controlled garage so it hasn't been subjected to a lot of drastic temperature and humidity changes. When I cleaned the dust off it looked brand new with no peck marks around the top edge of the opening and no scratches on the base. The green paint on the base isn't even dis-colored. The arky and horse head molds he ordered with it looks like they've hardly been used.

I have adjusted the flow rate from a heavy flow to a moderate flow and can tell the difference in what I'm getting but either which way I'm still getting shorts. But then again this only happened on the one particular day that I tried it out.

Maybe the mold wasn't hot enough. I always pour blank shots into each cavity and then set the mold on top of the pot. But there is always the possibility the mold wasn't hot enough.

 

[odinohi]

You could always cal RCBS and tell them you need a new pot and valve rod. They have always done this for me free of charge!

[smallmouthaholic]

1- What is your source of soft lead ?

2- You must know the temperature of your lead

       a-A digital pyrometer is best

       b- infrared gun will not work on lead

3- what are you using to flux your lead?

[WidowMaker]

I don't know the exact temperature of the lead. I have never felt the need to know the exact temp of lead when I was pouring due to the fact that I have never really had any major un-solvable trouble with pouring lead.
I always let the lead tell me what temp adjustments to make according to how it was pouring at the time.  
I'm fluxing with a high bees wax content candle wax.
But I did check the outlet and the wiring  was not connecting quite as tight as it should have been.
Everything is working good now. Im stirring the lead during the fluxing and I'm getting good pours now.

Edited September 28, 2017 by WidowMaker

[smallmouthaholic]

Temperature  and the source/type of you lead is very important but most here will not spend the $ for a digital pyrometer.

[BLT]

On 9/29/2017 at 8:20 AM, smallmouthaholic said:

Temperature  and the source/type of you lead is very important but most here will not spend the $ for a digital pyrometer.

Won't spend the money because I have never needed one.  Just because someone uses one, does not mean we all need one. 

[smallmouthaholic]

1 hour ago, BLT said:

Won't spend the money because I have never needed one.  Just because someone uses one, does not mean we all need one. 

Correct-save the money and keep on guessing! I guess I'm old school. Many come on here w/ their problems associated w/pouring lead. Sometimes one has to chuckle w/ some of the responses. To each his own.