Sudd Posted October 22, 2017 Report Share Posted October 22, 2017 I'm thinking about switching from the urethane top coats to epoxy. What are the cheapest but best way to go. My baits are urethane foam and painted with lacquer. I want a high shine but a durable but non crackable finish. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted October 22, 2017 Report Share Posted October 22, 2017 Is there a crack proof topcoat? Don’t think so. You basically have 3 epoxy choices. Decoupage/bar top epoxies like Envirotex Lite. Maybe a bit more flexible than others. Contains a solvent so is much thinner and cures slower than others. Usually requires multiple coats. Cheapest per volume. Glue type epoxies like Devcon Two Ton. Cures faster, goes on thicker, one coat coverage. No solvent unless you add it. Rod guide epoxies like Flexcoat. More expensive, contains some solvent but less than Envirotex, some have UV inhibitors at extra cost. Yet another epoxy is Bob Smith Industries 20 or 30 min epoxy. Not sure how to categorize it but it’s popular too. Each of these has fans. Each epoxy has idiosynchronies in how best to apply and cure it. It’s a learning process. I learned epoxy with Devcon and it’s still my choice when I want to use epoxy, not least because I’ve got it down pat and never screw it up anymore. If I were building baits in a production setting, I’d probably use either moisture cured urethane like KBS Diamond Coat or a UV cured polyester resin like Alumi-UV. Both are tougher than epoxy on a per-coating-thickness basis and are less prone to UV yellowing. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted October 23, 2017 Report Share Posted October 23, 2017 have u tried automotive clears? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted October 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2017 54 minutes ago, woodieb8 said: have u tried automotive clears? No I have not. Fill me in on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 automotive 4t1mix. spray. dries in 4 hours uv protected..you need ventilation/blower system.. ultra clear non yellowing.we do all urethane/foams with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Bob Smith is very similar to d2t. I can't tell the difference except easier to find. Good luck. Do you need a clear coat over lacquer? I thought they were self sealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted October 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 16 minutes ago, Musky Glenn said: Bob Smith is very similar to d2t. I can't tell the difference except easier to find. Good luck. Do you need a clear coat over lacquer? I thought they were self sealing. Yes a clear over lacquer. For shine and protection of the paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Not many hobby builders use catalyzed auto clears due to the toxicity and the need to employ an exhaust system and a solvent rated breathing mask. It’s a good alternative for production builders who can afford the setup. There’s a reason you see auto painters outfitted in tyvek space suits and full head hoods. Isocyanates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sudd Posted October 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2017 Wow I tried brushing lacquer today as a clear coat and my paint started coming off!! Can't use that stuff! Looks like I may just start using d2t and put it on with a brush and let hang dry. This is business production so I have to use something good but not real expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
