ddl Posted October 28, 2017 Report Share Posted October 28, 2017 out of all the brands out there who make the shiniest gold and silver? something that can be use over acrylic paint only. for now i have createx and auto-air and aztek i think aztek seems to be the best out of the 3 but im sure someone know something brighter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 I like the createx pearls 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted October 29, 2017 Report Share Posted October 29, 2017 There are lots of really great silver and gold paints, but............ Most of the best looking gold and silvers are rattle can paints, solvent based, and most of them say in fine print on the back of the can "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended". Take their suggestions very seriously. They will not hold up to water if not cleared and once clear coated they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color. But, they will coat acrylic paints just fine. LOL Of the straight acrylic paints, I think I have used most of them. I am on my wife's computer and my pictures are on mine, at home, a thousand miles away, so I cannot give you my documentation. If you take your time, sand with very fine sandpaper between coats, polish well, you can get excellent silvers and golds. But, "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended". Take my suggestions very seriously. Once cleared, "they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color." I have done some gold and silver leafing on some lures. Cost about a dollar a lure, but the silver and gold is awesome. So soft you must clear coat, and they do not dull nearly as much, but they still dull some. Monte likes Createx pearls, and they are not truly silver or gold, but they look more silver and gold once clear coated then the "true" silver and golds, so that might be your best option. I have tried several of the "liquid or spray on chrome" options and they do the same thing every time. The problem is not the paints, but the clear coats. The best clear coats are indeed clear, but there is a physical property of light that is called refraction. I will let you do a google search on that but in short, light travels differently in air then it does in water then it does in clear coats. We need a clear coat that allows light to travel the same way air does so we see it as chrome. Once that lure hits the water, it will then do what other metallic silver or chrome lures do. Getting a clear coat to have the same refractive property as air is pretty tough. That is why so many of the old chrome lures actually had metal chrome electroplated on them. The metallic chrome is tough enough to stand up to many fish, and the same is true of the silver. The other option is to use a clear coat that is super thin. Then the problem is getting super thin clear coats that are tough enough. I saw another company that makes Chrome films and washes and spray recently and they are now claiming they have a "kit" for chrome that is tough enough to touch up your chrome wheels. It consist of a black primer, a can of their "chrome" spray, and if needed a can of "THEIR" clear. The cost of their kit was something like $750. I could not afford to "test" that kit to see if the clear was hard enough, the chrome true, the ............. But technology advances, times change. After all, not too long ago, you could actually chrome your lure with chrome, but that is not environmentally safe so it has been strongly restricted and even banned in some countries. Good luck on your search, Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Silver nail polish will give you a shiny silver finish. You can top coat with Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear, and it will be bullet proof. It doesn't yellow over time, either. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 On 10/30/2017 at 6:52 AM, mark poulson said: Silver nail polish will give you a shiny silver finish. You can top coat with Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear, and it will be bullet proof. It doesn't yellow over time, either. One I have not tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 7 hours ago, Anglinarcher said: One I have not tried. There are clear polishes with different colored glitter that hold up really well, so you can add glitter to an already powder coated jig, or to an already painted head. I get them at the dollar store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 I have used the glitter polishes before. I agree, it works quite well on jigs, etc. I had some "chrome" colored fingernail polish that I tried. It looked great, but when I put any of my clears on it, it greyed. I tried it without a clear coat, and fish loved it, but it came off quick. I will try the Hard As Nails if I can find it, but I don't see it as a "production" option. Funny thing is that I was experimenting with fingernail polishes, especially the UV ones. BUT, my granddaughter saw them in my "man cave" where I was working and complained to my wife that "grandpa is weird, he has fingernail polish". My wife tossed them all away that very day. ROFLOL 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 I use dollar store clear polish, and it works fine, too. I have some top waters with the silver polish on them that have held up for quite a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 But you fish for those toothless bass. ROFLOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 2 hours ago, Anglinarcher said: But you fish for those toothless bass. ROFLOL Yeah, but I used to fish the salt, and your pike and musky look like the barracudas we used to catch. All teeth and slime, and with retro rockets. I don't think anything in my boat would stand up to your toothy critters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 58 minutes ago, mark poulson said: Yeah, but I used to fish the salt, and your pike and musky look like the barracudas we used to catch. All teeth and slime, and with retro rockets. I don't think anything in my boat would stand up to your toothy critters. Ya, caught the cudas before. Seemed all I needed was a section of red or orange tubing on a wire leader. BUT, those things were about the meanest things I have ever wanted to remove a hook from. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 (edited) 11 hours ago, Anglinarcher said: Ya, caught the cudas before. Seemed all I needed was a section of red or orange tubing on a wire leader. BUT, those things were about the meanest things I have ever wanted to remove a hook from. Yeah, we used to throw "the iron", big metal jigs, to them, and they would put bite marks in the metal. One tough customer. The little ones wiggled like stripers, and the big ones thrashed so hard it was scarey. Lots of teeth, the only way to handle them back then was with a gaff, and half the time they shook themselves off. Edited November 2, 2017 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted November 4, 2017 Report Share Posted November 4, 2017 I've been taking things around the house, but before that I was working with some rattle can paints as a base paint, Spaz Stix chrome and Rustoleum silvers, golds and copper foil paint. The gold does real well but I can't remember the brand name. Spaz for the money is not worth it IMO for baits, because of the clear. My clear is doing what I want so far, but I haven't completed many baits. I really want to see what the copper foil ends up looking under a pearl purple or whatever. As far as fingernail polish (clear) I add glitter of certain sizes for jigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McLuvin175 Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 On 10/29/2017 at 5:31 PM, Anglinarcher said: There are lots of really great silver and gold paints, but............ Most of the best looking gold and silvers are rattle can paints, solvent based, and most of them say in fine print on the back of the can "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended". Take their suggestions very seriously. They will not hold up to water if not cleared and once clear coated they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color. But, they will coat acrylic paints just fine. LOL Of the straight acrylic paints, I think I have used most of them. I am on my wife's computer and my pictures are on mine, at home, a thousand miles away, so I cannot give you my documentation. If you take your time, sand with very fine sandpaper between coats, polish well, you can get excellent silvers and golds. But, "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended". Take my suggestions very seriously. Once cleared, "they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color." I have done some gold and silver leafing on some lures. Cost about a dollar a lure, but the silver and gold is awesome. So soft you must clear coat, and they do not dull nearly as much, but they still dull some. Monte likes Createx pearls, and they are not truly silver or gold, but they look more silver and gold once clear coated then the "true" silver and golds, so that might be your best option. I have tried several of the "liquid or spray on chrome" options and they do the same thing every time. The problem is not the paints, but the clear coats. The best clear coats are indeed clear, but there is a physical property of light that is called refraction. I will let you do a google search on that but in short, light travels differently in air then it does in water then it does in clear coats. We need a clear coat that allows light to travel the same way air does so we see it as chrome. Once that lure hits the water, it will then do what other metallic silver or chrome lures do. Getting a clear coat to have the same refractive property as air is pretty tough. That is why so many of the old chrome lures actually had metal chrome electroplated on them. The metallic chrome is tough enough to stand up to many fish, and the same is true of the silver. The other option is to use a clear coat that is super thin. Then the problem is getting super thin clear coats that are tough enough. I saw another company that makes Chrome films and washes and spray recently and they are now claiming they have a "kit" for chrome that is tough enough to touch up your chrome wheels. It consist of a black primer, a can of their "chrome" spray, and if needed a can of "THEIR" clear. The cost of their kit was something like $750. I could not afford to "test" that kit to see if the clear was hard enough, the chrome true, the ............. But technology advances, times change. After all, not too long ago, you could actually chrome your lure with chrome, but that is not environmentally safe so it has been strongly restricted and even banned in some countries. Good luck on your search, Steve My thoughts, If the clear coat you are applying over gold/silver is solvent based too then that can create problems. If the clear coat solvates the underlying paint the particles of pigment can be lifted and reoriented. The best metal looking paints usually have their pigment particles "leaf"; meaning they layflat with the largest reflective surfaces all facing one direction. If that orientation is altered they get dull in a hurry. I wonder if a water based urethane; which shouldnt disturb the underlying paint, could act as a barrier to protect that metallic coat when you finally top it with 2-part Urethane, Solvent thinned Epoxy or something similar which will give the final toughness you seek. And i do agree the smoother the substrate the shinier your metallic coat will be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 Only problem is that, for example, AlumiUV and Solarez also grey and they are not solvent based and cure using UV light. Both are clear, AlumiUV being much better (no wax haze), but they still grey the silver coats. I do agree though that "The best metal looking paints usually have their pigment particles "leaf"; meaning they lay flat with the largest reflective surfaces all facing one direction. If that orientation is altered they get dull in a hurry." I have tried the water based clears first and had not improvement. But, perhaps if we keep this thread alive long enough someone can come up with something. There must be a way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) On 10/28/2017 at 10:10 AM, ddl said: out of all the brands out there who make the shiniest gold and silver? something that can be use over acrylic paint only. for now i have createx and auto-air and aztek i think aztek seems to be the best out of the 3 but im sure someone know something brighter I have never found any paint that I was happy with the shine of the paint. However I have found the gold and silver metallic foils from a couple sources, https://makewoodenlures.com/product/holoscale-mirroscale/ https://www.binding101.com/metallic-foil-fusing-rolls that produce an excellent mirror like finish and probably what your looking for. You has also get some cool holographic colors as well. Edited December 13, 2017 by Fish_N_Fool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 do you know if it stick enough or you have to add glue? tks sound good,and price is not bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 The foils should be applied with a specialty heat press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 34 minutes ago, ddl said: do you know if it stick enough or you have to add glue? tks sound good,and price is not bad This type has a self adhesive the other does not it can be used with heat or a spray on adhesive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, MonteSS said: The foils should be applied with a specialty heat press. You don't have to use a heat press with reg. foil tape, (that is the best way) but you can get good results with spray or brush on adhesives. Edited December 13, 2017 by Fish_N_Fool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 tks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 On 11/1/2017 at 10:32 AM, Anglinarcher said: "grandpa is weird, he has fingernail polish". You gotta be weird if you don't like a Fish-N-Fool knot LOL 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 You mean passing a line through a lure eye twice, then tying a Uni-knot? You mean that old thing I started doing in the early 80's, and taught people along the front range of Colorado to do, before you gave it a name? You mean that old thing? I never said I don't like it, just would never call it that. ROFLOL It is a good knot, it has its place. Sure not the only knot I use, but it has its place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 1 hour ago, Anglinarcher said: You mean passing a line through a lure eye twice, then tying a Uni-knot? You mean that old thing I started doing in the early 80's, and taught people along the front range of Colorado to do, before you gave it a name? You mean that old thing? I never said I don't like it, just would never call it that. ROFLOL It is a good knot, it has its place. Sure not the only knot I use, but it has its place. Don't they call that the Trilene Knot, too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish_N_Fool Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 1 hour ago, mark poulson said: Don't they call that the Trilene Knot, too? No that's a totally different knot, a Trilene is a basic 2 turn clinch knot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...