Basecoat

[Good Fishing]

What do you guys use for a basecoat prior to airbrushing? I'm just getting started and applying a basecoat via airbrush seems inefficient.

[MonteSS]

Golden's titanium white.  You're welcome

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4oz-High-Flow-Acrylic-Paint-Color-Titanium-White/182637968543?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

[BobP]

I use Polytranspar Superhide white; lots of pigment, dries faster than normal to a smooth hard surface.  Most airbrush paint brands include a highly pigmented white intended for color basecoating, with which you can basecoat with two coats of paint on wood lures.  Is it a hassle?  Maybe but necessary for most color schemes.

[Anglinarcher]

LOL, basecoats are not easy, and the items you basecoat can make it harder.  

I pour resins a lot, and the white resins help some, but the lead ballast I pour into it can migrate to the surface and makes it tough to coat.  The options given above are pretty good.

I also base coat with Krylon spray paint, the fusion was my favorite, but it is hard to find now.  I still have issues getting it to cover the lead shot on the surface.  I started doing something weird, something very weird.  I rattle can a metallic Rustoleum on first, then rattle can the white Krylon over it.  It takes far fewer coats now.

Tell us something about what you are based coating and it will be easier.

 

[Good Fishing]

10 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

I also base coat with Krylon spray paint, the fusion was my favorite, but it is hard to find now.  I still have issues getting it to cover the lead shot on the surface.  I started doing something weird, something very weird.  I rattle can a metallic Rustoleum on first, then rattle can the white Krylon over it.  It takes far fewer coats now.

 

I could have phrased my question better. This was the kind of guidance I was looking for.  Basically, I'm wondering if most of you apply a base coat with your airbrush or with some other means (rattle can, for example). Is there some benefit to applying base coat with an airbrush? 

I'm currently painting old Rat-L-Traps. They're cheap and a good practice lure, since I'm only starting to learn how to airbrush. I've been hand-sanding the original surface prior to applying a base coat of Createx Autoborne Sealer, but I was wondering if a base coat of rattle can primer would work just as well.

[gliders]

Personally I now use spray gun, but used spray cans prior to that, as well as airbrush.  I would choose rattle can over airbrush .

[MonteSS]

With the original Bill Lewis Rattletrsps use a sanding block and sand the eyrs flat. Then use 3d eyes before clear. Mucheasier than painting eyes and looks bettet. 

I like slightly larger eyes that baby fish typically have. These are 7mm

 

Edited November 18, 2017 by MonteSS

[Anglinarcher]

7 hours ago, Good Fishing said:

I could have phrased my question better. This was the kind of guidance I was looking for.  Basically, I'm wondering if most of you apply a base coat with your airbrush or with some other means (rattle can, for example). Is there some benefit to applying base coat with an airbrush? 

I'm currently painting old Rat-L-Traps. They're cheap and a good practice lure, since I'm only starting to learn how to airbrush. I've been hand-sanding the original surface prior to applying a base coat of Createx Autoborne Sealer, but I was wondering if a base coat of rattle can primer would work just as well.

We don't seem to like the phrase "trial and error", but in reality that is what we do.  The fact is that each of us has our own Best Way and I don't think any two of us do it the same.

I have primed with an airbrush a lot, and it works, but it is not always easy. 

If I was priming pre-fabricated plastic baits, and I use to buy a lot of them, I would roughen the surface with fine sandpaper, clean with an alcohol wipe, then prime with an airbrush using a hi hide white, water based.  I found that to work best.

If I was priming wood baits, and I have done my share in the last 50 years, I would seal the wood first (sealer has changed a lot over the years), then again sand with fine paper to roughen, then clean with Alcohol wipe, then prime again with water based hi hide white with an airbrush.

If I am molding my own with resin, then I have to deal with the lead or tungsten at the surface of the bait that I used for ballast.  This is when I need to be creative.  Sometimes I spray the inside of my mold with the Krylon and then mold the lure.  The resin takes on the "primer" and makes it a lot easier, but I need to clean the overspray from the silicone mold (pretty easy).  If I don't pour within about an hour or priming the mold then sometimes the primer does not transfer well and it is splotchy, so again, a little different method.  But, most of the time I am not in PRODUCTION MODE so don't do it that way.  That is when I go to the spray methods, and the rattle cans cover so much faster than the airbrush water or solvent based......they simply have more solids in the spray.  If I am molding them myself, I don't have issues with the solvent damaging the baits.

So, as you can see, lots of different ways.  So, at the risk of saying again, it really is "trial and error".

Wow, hope this helps, did not mean to make it so long.

[Travis]

I mainly paint wood cranks and always seal first.  I use shellac as it dries quick.   First coat sand what ever grain lifts then a second coat.  This typically will give a good substrate to build  on.  I then spray (airbrush) a cheap white paint that has been thinned slightly as they typically seam to contain more pigment.   

I have used Krylon a few times and have dipped quite a few in a thinned Zinnser primer.  Have also dipped a lot of propionate , dissolved solo cups, and superglue (balsa) on wood baits also.   

As long as your wood baits are sealed paint builds up quick.  If not sealed a much slower process as several coats of paint will be needed to  reach a smooth surface.

[mark poulson]

I like rattle can primers because they have more solids than water based white, so two coats, 30 minutes apart,  give me a much smoother surface to paint.