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shastaron

Basecoat rattle cans??

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Nope, never done 

6 minutes ago, shastaron said:

hardballs

LOL, but have done hardbaits.  Keep the coats, usually keep them as thin as possible, close together, about 30 minutes apart, then mist them with the airbrush paint about 30 minutes after the last coat.  Then you must let it dry the full 24 hours before doing the regular AB methods.

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One thing to note.  If you use MCU to topcoat your baits, you can get a solvent incompatibility between the basecoat and it causing the paint to wrinkle in some cases, especially if the basecoat is an enamel.  Best to do a test before trusting it.

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I lost a few paint jobs by using a can primer like BobP has stated. After stripping the baits back down it didn't take me long to go back to what I was doing prior. I was painting wooden blanks with a sealer coat. You may do better with a brand you want to use. One brand makes a plastic fusion primer, becareful tho with the break down of the body wall, of the bait and the solvents used in it. I haven't painted plastic blanks for some time now.

LOL, I hate to use these words, "trial and error". You may need to experiment.

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I normally paint 5-10 baits at a time. I use rattle can Rustoleum 2X Primer in white for a base coat. I have had no issues. It seems to work well and is cheap.  I mostly use D2T for my top coat. I sometimes use Rustoleum 2X clear.  

 Last winter, I ran out of primer and did not want to run out to buy more. I used the 96 cent generic Walmart spray paint in flat white for a base coat. Those baits also turned out well and the paint jobs have held up so far.  I like that this paint goes on very thin.  

The generic glossy paint does not work well as a primer. I primed a few baits with this and got paint interactions.  It took me a minute to figure out the problem. I had one can of flat and one can of glossy. The cans were identical except for the small bar code sticky where it says gloss white or flat white.

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