stumpjumper16 Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 I've been using CS one part finish on my spinnerbaits and jigs for several years now and looking for something a little stronger to finish over the CS vinyl paint that I use that won't cause yellowing/ hazing over paint job. The vinyl paint seems to work really well and flexes with the lead when heads hit rocks without cracking, but the one part coat seems to crack/peel fairly easy when jig heads are pulled over rock. Any suggestions would be welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saugerman Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Can't go wrong with Devcon D2T. That's what I use when I want a good hard finish. I only use the 30 minute epoxy, not the 5 minute. I'm sure there are other top coats that will work just fine, and maybe a little easier to use, but this is what I use. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 I've used klass Kote for years . But I do very little spraying epoxy coats . I dip or Brush where possible . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Any topcoat will scratch, marr, or otherwise show use when pulled over rock during a days fishing. Not a topcoat or paint out there that will stay pristine under those conditions. That said, you may be able to find something that will works better than vinyl. Most of the good jig producers around use powder paint to paint their jigs...no topcoat required. Once you bake it, it’s hard as a witches heart. Very cost effective as you can paint many, many jigs with a pound of powder. Some guys even use it to paint their spinnerbaits. A little more difficult as the wire gets in the way but using a brush tap method you can get some great results. If you add eyes, you’ll want to topcoat with a clear to keep the eyes on. Several good Moisture Cure Urethanes (MCU’s) out there for this. Also the clear two part epoxies like the Devcon 2 Ton. You’ll have to find what works for you. Personally, I prefer the MCU’s for the working time. KBS Diamond Clear is a really nice MCU. Also for spinnerbaits that you are going to topcoat, you can get some nice results using an airbrush with Createx water based paints then top coated with MCU or epoxy. I’ll try to post a photo or two to show an example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpjumper16 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Will I need to turn dry with Mcu's and/or d2t; or just hang dry on a drying rack? I'm going to stick with vinyl paint for its durability. Wires wear out on spinnerbaits/buzzbaits before paint job. I'm usually able to re-tie new skirts a time or two before bait becomes unusable. As for jigs, the finish coat goes pretty quick with can one part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted November 21, 2017 Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Use 2-3 coats of CS seal coat if you're looking for a spray able.easy to apply coat of protection. I agree w/ APdriver 100% that no top coat,epoxy or otherwise will last forever . I want to try Bob Smiths.brush on - 30 minute epoxy before placing the lead baits on a turning wheel to dry evenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpjumper16 Posted November 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2017 Thanks for all your recommendations guys. I think I might try some D2t, and then go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted November 22, 2017 Report Share Posted November 22, 2017 Devcon 2-Ton is really strong, clear, and is user friendly. The only downside is that it is brush on but it doesn't need a heavy coat as it is thick but goes on easy and doesn't need a drying wheel as the working time is about 12 to 15 minutes even though it says 30 minutes. When I do a large number of jig heads I'll mix in small batches to have little to no waste, what happens is that the epoxy will get so thick it is hard to put on with a brush, if you were doing something on a large scale like a repair of some sort I'd imagine you could apply it up to 30 minutes but not for the stuff we do. Now while it sets up pretty fast it isn't able to be handled for 8 hours and fully cured at 12 hours but I like to have my heads go for 24 hours before move them from my rack and 48 hours before I fish with them, that is just me as I'm sure they are good after 12 but I feel better with the 48 hour thing, an obsessive compulsive deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saugerman Posted November 23, 2017 Report Share Posted November 23, 2017 I do as Smalljaw does, only I add a couple drops of denatured alcohol, to help thin the D2T just a little. It spreads out a little better when you do that, I like the finish it leaves, and it's pretty tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
