Reel-Tyme Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Just bought an original shooting start system. Have poured a few baits. Getting some discoloring in my clear stuff, been heating to 350 and pouring, is that to hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 No such thing as a "best temp" that we can give you. It depends on a lot of factors and I doubt that we can even list them. But.... Plastic maker, accuracy of the thermometer, etc., do impact the clarity and quality of the pour. We all need to convert the plastic, and 350 degrees F is the number we need to get to, or until the milky white goes clear. Once heated, many of us then allow it to cool to between 320 and 330 to pour. Others here use the Shooting Star System so I am sure they will chime in. Just remember that some experimentation will be required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reel-Tyme Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Thank you, I realized about the time I hit the submit button, that I left the question way to broad. I'm using the M_F plastic (medium sinking) I bought this system from a friend of mine. Been playing around for a few days. I run a Striper guide service and thought it would be fun to make my own stuff. Ive got the basic colors down pretty well. But i pour a clear with holographic glitter for a sassy and fluke style bait. Its getting discolored and actually has a few smal air bubbles in them. I heat the pot to 350 as mentioned earlier and the T-Stat is quite reliable within 2 degrees either way, have double checked that with a hand help in fared thermometer. Was just looking to see if I should back the temp down a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 There are 3 different versions of the Shooting Star. Ultra Molds has 2 versions, a Large and Mini and then there was Bear's Baits version which used an injector and manifold built by Ultra Molds and added to a pair of presto pots and stirrers. Ultra Molds units use PID's to control the pots temps but monitor the temp of the base plate that the pot is mounted to so it's best to check the plastic temp in the pot periodically. Bear's used presto pots which have a rather inaccurate thermostat. In all cases check the plastic temp directly. Personally I heat in a microwave (pair of them) and transfer to the pots after its hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cub48 Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 My infrared is not correct when i shoot plastic it's good to around 200 F then it does not read right. Use a digital thermometer also when u reach 350f turn the thermostat down to about 295f also put some stablizerin it also try to turn it down when it reaches 340 F as it may heat on up before start to drop. So it u are reaching 350 F it may heat on up to 360F or more before it starts dropping Cub48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpssports Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 Depends on the plastic. We use a custom Polysol mix that once it hits 350 we can turn down the temp & shoot as low as 280. But we normally keep it within the 290-300 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryanmc Posted December 7, 2017 Report Share Posted December 7, 2017 After you get to 350, drop it down to 310 - 320 before you add your glitter and keep it there while you shoot your baits. You'll find everyone has a little different procedure, but if you keep it up by 350 your flake will bleed and your plastic will yellow a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reel-Tyme Posted December 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2017 Thanks very much for everyone's help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...