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Sudd

Airbrush safety

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Well, probably not so much.  If you use a good organic vapor protective mask, and if no one else enters the shop until the fumes are cleared, then it could  be ok, but it would be problematic for you if you have any employees or visitors.

For "hobbyist" like myself, just opening the window and spraying right out the window (assuming wind is not blowing it back inside) would be just fine.   But.....I know you are more then a "hobbyist" like myself.  :yes:

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2 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said:

Well, probably not so much.  If you use a good organic vapor protective mask, and if no one else enters the shop until the fumes are cleared, then it could  be ok, but it would be problematic for you if you have any employees or visitors.

For "hobbyist" like myself, just opening the window and spraying right out the window (assuming wind is not blowing it back inside) would be just fine.   But.....I know you are more then a "hobbyist" like myself.  :yes:

Yes anglin and I know I been on this subject before. But for the life of me I just can't seem to find a setup. I would love some ideas on what would be the safest thing to do without going overboard with budget. I mean I know using the paints I use I cannot have any kind of exposed motor. That's why I have not bought one of those Made by master ect. 

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Yes, and no on the exposed motor.  I think the guys on here tend to get a bit over concerned....... to paraphrase the Great  Bard, "Much ado about nothing".

Get the SDS (Safety Data Sheets) on the paints and clears you use.  I suggest that you will find that the the fumes are not as flammable as you might think, and require a specific air/fuel ratio range to explode.  As long as you keep the air ratio high enough, the fuel will not be concentrated enough to ignite.

Having said that, I am speaking as an experienced Engineer, Safety Officer, Quality Officer, and a host of other useless titles.  I can read and relate the SDS and know how to get a "sniffer" to check the air if necessary.

But, in today's world, we all need to be lawyer proof so we all say "be safe, be very safe".

Get your SDS, review them, contact one of the hood suppliers and ask them to suggest the least expensive one that will work for your products.

 

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25 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said:

Yes, and no on the exposed motor.  I think the guys on here tend to get a bit over concerned....... to paraphrase the Great  Bard, "Much ado about nothing".

Get the SDS (Safety Data Sheets) on the paints and clears you use.  I suggest that you will find that the the fumes are not as flammable as you might think, and require a specific air/fuel ratio range to explode.  As long as you keep the air ratio high enough, the fuel will not be concentrated enough to ignite.

Having said that, I am speaking as an experienced Engineer, Safety Officer, Quality Officer, and a host of other useless titles.  I can read and relate the SDS and know how to get a "sniffer" to check the air if necessary.

But, in today's world, we all need to be lawyer proof so we all say "be safe, be very safe".

Get your SDS, review them, contact one of the hood suppliers and ask them to suggest the least expensive one that will work for your products.

 

I've got a old stove vent hood that still works, I'm thinking about just piping it out of the shop and using something for some sides. And just using that.

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4 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

Kitchen exhaust hoods have to have explosion proof motors, by law, to prevent grease fires. 

They have been fire rated for at least forty years that I know of.

You should be able to take the name and model number off the hood, and then go online and find out if it's fire rated.

 

Well it's not that old I know

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20 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said:

Yes, all modern range hoods are explosion proof.  You can purchase one from Home Depot or Lowes, etc.  Often you can get one from contractors that do remodel work; they would much rather sell a used one to you then pay for disposal fees.  Check out Craigs List as well.  

 

Ok so does it need to be setup where it pulls up or does it need to be where I spray toward the fan or does it matter? Seems I read somewhere fumes are heavier than air but not sure bout that

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This is what I've been using. It took a short piece of pvc pipe and put a Y on the end of it.  I took a leaf blower and hooked the hose to the Y where it would blow outward.  That created enough suction at the front where it would hold a price of paper against the opening. My paint table is right in front of my window so the pvc pipe goes right out window. The blower is outside, this works pretty dang well but the problem is it's loud and I'm constantly running the blower for quiet a while. I've just not found anything to really work. I have to keep my shop closed up to during the winter so only ventilation I have is right there at the window.

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13 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said:

Most of the fumes can be sucked up so I would not worry about it.  But, if you can get it so the spray is toward the fan, that is better.

It sure sucks to be painting with solvent based paints in the winter in cold areas.  I hope you find a way.

Well the good thing is I can stay pretty warm. I just need to find the best way to vent the fumes and smell out of there. So you think the hood would be best way to go. Or you or anyone else suggest something better? If this was hobby I wouldn't worry about it I would use acrylics, but I use solvents due to very fast drying times and I can switch colors quick I don't have to wait to paint a different color. 

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2 minutes ago, Tronicsman said:

I’m confused I can change colors quickly with my water based paints.

But it takes longer for water based paints to dry. With lacquer I can paint a color and turn right around and paint on top of that color because it pretty much dries on contact. I paint a lot at one time for business, so I don't have time to sit there and wait on WB paints to dry.

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3 minutes ago, Anglinarcher said:

I think the hood will work, but a booth would always be better.

Ok well I got me a hood but I'm going to somehow build a booth around it, just have to figure out the material I want to use to do that. But the hood will be my ventilation ducked to the outside of my shop.

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remember you need to vent outside..we have run squirrel cage blower system for over 30 years. vented outside thru the wall. always start your blower before spraying for the draw..using volatile thinners and paints its a must. also guys remember paint rags should be placed outside to avoid combustion fires..after painting always double check before locking up....cutting/sanding wood is another safety issue..shop vacs are bad for internal sparking. be carefull. after near 40 years we have not had a phoof,and hope to never have one....safety first .

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1 minute ago, woodieb8 said:

remember you need to vent outside..we have run squirrel cage blower system for over 30 years. vented outside thru the wall. always start your blower before spraying for the draw..using volatile thinners and paints its a must. also guys remember paint rags should be placed outside to avoid combustion fires..after painting always double check before locking up....cutting/sanding wood is another safety issue..shop vacs are bad for internal sparking. be carefull. after near 40 years we have not had a phoof,and hope to never have one....safety first .

It will be vented outside thats the whole purpose. Also what do you mean paint rags outside?

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Got my range hoo d today, gonna hang it at my window and run a 2' piece of duct pipe straight out the window. I'm going to close the window opening up with a piece of wood. I was really surprised at the air that thing moves. It sucked a piece of paper right out of my hand and stuck right to the filter. I can spray right toward that filter and this should work good to vent.

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11 hours ago, Sudd said:

Got my range hoo d today, gonna hang it at my window and run a 2' piece of duct pipe straight out the window. I'm going to close the window opening up with a piece of wood. I was really surprised at the air that thing moves. It sucked a piece of paper right out of my hand and stuck right to the filter. I can spray right toward that filter and this should work good to vent.

If you can, find disposable HVAC filters that will fit into the hood, to keep the fan from being coated with paint.  The filters are cheap, the motors aren't.

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