DingerBaits Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Did a search, couldn't find what i was looking for. Any perfered method for Circuit Board bill installations on a wooden crank? I have a million questions on this, so bear with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitaker201 Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I would think 30min epoxy would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 OK, been working on this a little recently. One of the big issues we all have is to cut the slot in the correct angle, location, depth, etc. I recently made a one piece silicone mold of "correct lure", The mold was of the back of the lure, embedded into the silicone just deep enough to cover the bottom third of the lip (on the mold I did). I can take new lures, push it into the mold. The mold now provided a slot to guide my small back saw to cut the slot. Now, as for anchoring the circuit board lip, I have a small drill press and I use it to punch two or three small holes into it. It makes for better anchoring. I use long cure epoxy, butter the lip with epoxy, filling the holes, then slide the lip in place. Wipe the excess epoxy from the lip and lure. Hope this helps some. PS, I use Alumilite HS3. It is soft enough that gums the saw blade before it cuts so it actually does not damage easy. It is flexible enough that I can make these partial molds of any shape. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I only target bass. Typically I have used 5 minute epoxy, Devcon. It will turn yellow slowly over time and is visible if you leave squeeze out (especially on light colored baits). I like my bills to be flush with the bait and wipe all squeeze out off so no issues. I typical drill holes also but never had any bills fail that weren't drilled either. Never found it to make a difference to be honest but it takes only seconds to drill a few holes in a stack of bills so not like we are adding any significant time to the process. Some guys like to pin the bills also. Cranks I fish...yellow glue around the lip slot is the least of its problems. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I was planning on drilling the holes in the bill in the back. One thing i was curious about is should i scuff up the part of the bill that is inserted into the body. Any thoughts on if it is better to use a slow cure over the fast cure due to fast cures being more brittal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killntime Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 I just use envirotex for everything: bills, hook hangers and line ties. If line tie is in a large bill I usually drill a hole from bottom and pin it with a piece of .051 wire . In experimenting with diving bill size and trying to change one in a balsa bait, I wasn't able to pull it out. Never scuffed bills either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) I don't scuff circuit board lips but always do polycarbonate lips. In my opinion brittle doesn't factor into our application with bill installation. Top coat Devcon (30 minute) can crack if you wing the crank into a concrete piling or rip rap. I like fast cure because I can glue a few dozen bills in and then go straight to clear coating and never have had bills shift after placement this way. Nothing wrong with going slower cure just never found it to be an issue, now if one has to fiddle a lot to get the bill straight may be an issue (where lure build method and consistency comes into play). Edited January 31, 2018 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 I cut a couple of slots in the back of the lip and also sand the hidden part of the lip with my Drexel. I use Rod Bond epoxy Paste to glue it in. Pack the slot with epoxy and push in the lip. Wipe off the epoxy that squeezes out the back of the slot. You don’t want a slot that is too tight because epoxy has a minimum film thickness for strength. I like the epoxy paste because it’s strong and has a very long work time, well over an hour, that lets me fiddle with lip alignment. It also will stay in the slot and not flow out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Living near the clyde, I go for 'clyde built' - drill holes,scuff and slow cure epoxy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DingerBaits Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) I appreciate all the responses. This is a new learning curve for me. If anyone else has any suggestions let me know. I will be trying a few of these. From what I am getting though... 1.) cut slots or drill holes in the back of the lip 2.) scuff (can skip this if you dont like it 3.) Goop the out of the back of the bill 4.) Insert bill into bait 5.) let cure Edited January 31, 2018 by DingerBaits 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 I can never get a lip inserted with epoxy on it without scraping some of the epoxy off the back of the lip and onto the exposed lip. Also, I want the internal surfaces of the lip slot 100% covered in epoxy when the lip is installed to prevent eayer leakage. That’s why I prefer filling the slot with epoxy and pushing in a dry lip. No muss, no fuss, no exposed wood anywhere. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
