Pepmeier Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 I've been making jigs for a while now and have had only one real problem while doing it. When i put my "weedless" jigs in my toaster oven at 275, the fiber weedguards bloom out. Any ideas? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LimpNoodle Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 1. Put the weed guards on after you bake the jigs 2. Get some Teflon tubing to put over the weed guards. https://www.barlowstackle.com/Heat-resistant-Tubing--P1200.aspx 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepmeier Posted February 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 I’ve tried both, but they seem to droop with the tubing. And I’m not to keen on drilling out the holes for the weed guard to fit after dipping. What do you guys use for your adhesive? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 I paint all of my jigs, bake them and when they cool. Put the weedguards in. I use Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) 30 minute, if the jigs has eyes. This way I do the whole jig with D2T to seal in the eyes. If the jig does not have eyes, then I use Loctite Super Glue Gel. To keep powder paint from getting into your weedguard holes, use teflon pull ins. If you need more info on any of this, PM me and I'll help you out. BTW Welcome to Tackle Underground. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepmeier Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 I’ve seen the Teflon pins. I since they are non-metallic the paint won’t stick to them when they are hot? I wondered about Gorill Epoxy? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedDevil Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 The Teflon pins work great put them in your mold pour what ever your making and leave them in during painting and baking then remove and install your weed guard after. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I’ve found pulling the Teflon before I bake or heatset the powder best. I can remove the paint off my pin easier. For me, if I bake the paint on my pin it’s much harder to remove. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pepmeier Posted February 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I pre-heat mine in the oven before I put the first coat on. I think they dip smoother. Would the pin be ok doing this method? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creek Mouth Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I heard there is a much cheaper version of the heat resistant tubing that can b purchased from a hardware store for 1/1000 of the price as barlowtackle has...? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 5 hours ago, Creek Mouth said: I heard there is a much cheaper version of the heat resistant tubing that can b purchased from a hardware store for 1/1000 of the price as barlowtackle has...? Every tackle supply store has them and they all cost about the same. If there was a tube that was that much cheaper that you could get in hardware stores then no retailer would be selling them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 6 hours ago, Creek Mouth said: I heard there is a much cheaper version of the heat resistant tubing that can b purchased from a hardware store for 1/1000 of the price as barlowtackle has...? If that is the case do you have a source and or a name of the product? Do you have a link? There are a lot of people that would be interested here in this product. Do you have experience with it? Please supply more info so we all can learn. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 Just buy some small diameter aluminum tubing (from a hobby store or online). Get a diameter that just slides over your guards snug - or trim the guards down (thin them out) enough to fit the tube. The length of the tubes should be just longer than the guards. I slide them on prior to power coating (fluid bed) - slide on tube over guard - heat with gun, coat paint in fluid bed, then place in over to cure with the tubes in place. You'll them need to give them a little twist/bend to break the end free from the powder paint (rarely effects finish - only issue I've had is on jigs I goobered the paint on too thick). You can reuse them.... don't worry about different colors - I've used the same ones over and over with different paint and no issue. Plus they are cheap - just cut more as needed. I do recommend flaring the end of the tube slightly with a tool/nail so you can slide them on snug esaily... if you leave room in the tube - they fibers will distort/bend some. J. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EironBreaker Posted February 20, 2018 Report Share Posted February 20, 2018 I have made about 60 covers out of wooden dowel back when I used to pour with the guard in place. This was back before Teflon pins were introduced. I think it was 3/8" or 7/16" dowel. Cut pieces to length a little longer then the fiber guard. Use a 1/8" bit or the next size up and drill out the center of each dowel. Then use a large bit and cone one end. This makes getting the fiber guard into the hole much easier. You can reuse them for years. I baked at 285 degrees for 45 minutes and had good results. There are two brands of fiber guards on the market. The better one for baking is from Kayser Lure Co and tolerate a higher heat. Most places like Barlows and LPO, etc carry this weed guard. You can tell it is this brand by the fuzz that is on the fused end of the guard and a thin fused portion. Fishingskirts.com has a different guard that is made overseas. Nothing wrong with it but it doesn't act the same in the oven. Much softer with lower heat and will deform easier. These have a more pronounced fused area at the end. As far as I know, fishingskirts.com is the only seller of this guard. Either way, if you bake with the guard in place you will need a heat guard to keep the fiber guard from flaring. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creek Mouth Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 On 2/15/2018 at 6:06 AM, cadman said: If that is the case do you have a source and or a name of the product? Do you have a link? There are a lot of people that would be interested here in this product. Do you have experience with it? Please supply more info so we all can learn. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground. Ok so I finally talked to my boss about the tubing. It is a virgin teflon tubing (PTFE)that is heat resistant up to 327 degrees Celsius. On flourostore.com you can get it about a dollar a foot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 6 hours ago, Creek Mouth said: Ok so I finally talked to my boss about the tubing. It is a virgin teflon tubing (PTFE)that is heat resistant up to 327 degrees Celsius. On flourostore.com you can get it about a dollar a foot Thanks for the info. I'm not being smart but that stuff is very specialized and not sold in your everyday run of the mill hardware store. Also, after checking it out, I'm not sure it would work and there is a major reason but I could be wrong. When you read the description and application it says that it isn't strong and is highly flexible, and to keep the weed guard in place it needs to be rigid. Yeah, it will keep the heat off the exposed fibers but the weed guard still gets the heat at the base since the lead is hot, if the material isn't rigid it will allow those fibers to deform which is the problem even with curing with the current tubes. Even when you finish curing and allow the jig to cool, the weed guard still "flowers" or spreads out and can even curl at the top. It might be worth trying out but just based on the fact it is so flexible makes me think that it won't work as well as what is currently being used, I'd be interested in seeing the results if someone was to try it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creek Mouth Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 I don’t know what site he gets his from, and if there is a difference in rigid ness , he makes the best football head jigs I’ve ever seen and sells them for over 6$ a piece so I believe him, I stopped messing with weedgaurds, but the next batch I make I’ll use this and let y’all know.... and also, he isn’t slipping the tubing over weed guard, he puts it in the weed guard hole and keeps it there from when he pours the lead to the very last step which is pull the tubing out and put weed guard in.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Creek Mouth said: I don’t know what site he gets his from, and if there is a difference in rigid ness , he makes the best football head jigs I’ve ever seen and sells them for over 6$ a piece so I believe him, I stopped messing with weedgaurds, but the next batch I make I’ll use this and let y’all know.... and also, he isn’t slipping the tubing over weed guard, he puts it in the weed guard hole and keeps it there from when he pours the lead to the very last step which is pull the tubing out and put weed guard in.... Creek Mouth, With what you posted here based on the information you supplied, majority of the guys on TU have been using teflon pins in the same fashion for the last 6+ years as what your guy is doing. So according to you he puts in the Teflon pin into the weedguard hole before he paints to keep the paint from going into the hole, and then he pulls it out after painting and glues in his weedguard. I don't know if you pour or not, but there is nothing new about his process. I am going to bet that he learned about using Teflon pins (or whatever he uses) from this site. Thanks for the info though. BTW can you PM me his website so I can see his $6.00 football jigs, I am very curious. Edited March 3, 2018 by cadman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creek Mouth Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 Whooooa , just Trying to share the type of tubing he uses... that’s what you wanted me to share? no need to jump my case. It works for him . I haven’t tried it so I’ll be sure to let you know. As for his website I have no idea if he even has one. He mostly sells to bait shops around lake Barkley, ky area called all-American jigs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 2 hours ago, Creek Mouth said: I don’t know what site he gets his from, and if there is a difference in rigid ness , he makes the best football head jigs I’ve ever seen and sells them for over 6$ a piece so I believe him, I stopped messing with weedgaurds, but the next batch I make I’ll use this and let y’all know.... and also, he isn’t slipping the tubing over weed guard, he puts it in the weed guard hole and keeps it there from when he pours the lead to the very last step which is pull the tubing out and put weed guard in.... Ok, now go back and read the very beginning of this thread starting with the title. Again, I'm not trying to be smart with you but the person posting, and everyone else, including myself, was talking about the painting and curing with the weed guard cast in the jig head. The guys commenting before you posted were describing the heat resistant tubes that go over top of the weed guard to allow you to apply heat to the head to paint and cure without messing up the weed guard. You then said you can get a cheaper version of the tubing for 1/1000 of the price from a hardware store. Just so you understand some of our terminology, heat resistant TUBE goes over a weed guard to keep it from melting when it has been cast in the head, heat resistant PINS are used to create a hole in which to glue a weed guard in after the paining and curing is finished. I think you commented without reading the other posters, and as Cadman has said, most everyone here has been using Teflon pins for quite some time, the OP wants help with keeping the weed guards from blooming out when he heats the head. After your answer I understand what happened, you failed to read what the thread was about and are confused over tubes and pins, no big deal just remember in the future not to assume and carefully read what the post is about and you'll be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
