Tow Point Cracking Epoxy?

[Blair's Custom Lures]

Hey guys i have wondered if anyone that uses a stainless eye screw(i'm currently using 3/4") for their tow point, when you are tuning the crankbait will it crack your epoxy? I have been using lips from Janns Netcraft with the tow point pre-made in the bill so i have been limited on what  kind of bills i can use. I'm really wanting to try making some square bill baits but i'm just to worried about messing up the bait when i tune it. Also if anyone is using anything else as their tow point instead of  a stainless eye screw let me know. And if anyone has any preference on if i should use lexan or Circuit board or just keep with the same thing i'm doing, any advice would be appreciated. THANKS!

[Anglinarcher]

I see you are new.  Welcome to TU.

To help you, you would benefit by knowing how to get to the search feature.  Hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right.  When the drop down menu comes up, click on search at the bottom.  Enter the question in the search and you will get years of knowledge at your finger tips.

Now, to your question(s).  I suppose the answer would be depends.  A lot of us use different things for line ties.  I usually mold most of my hard baits and I use Brass to make my line ties and hook hangers.  It is easier to tune and is more then strong enough.  Many prefer the soft stainless steel wire.  But, if you insist on using screw in, and it works well, then LurePartsOnline.com has brass screws plated with stainless steel.  I suspect that if you were to take a poll you might find each of us do something slightly different.

Next, I don't crack my epoxy when I tune my bait.  Actually, I use AlumiUV instead of epoxy now.  But, the AlumiUV and slow cure epoxies like Devcon 2 Ton and the bar coat epoxies like Etex get hard but not brittle so I don't have an issue.  The fast cure epoxies do get brittle, and will yellow over time, so I avoid them.

7 hours ago, Blair's Custom Lures said:

wanting to try making some square bill baits but i'm just to worried about messing up the bait when i tune it

I would suggest just diving in and trying.  For example, I coated a lure last night with a holographic mylar tape by "Duck".  The tape looks great, small scale like, but I could not get it to lay well.  I told my wife who watched me that I "won't make that mistake again" and she laughed and said she gives be a week, two tops, before I try another test with it.  I guess you just have to keep testing, keep trying.

7 hours ago, Blair's Custom Lures said:

any preference on if i should use lexan or Circuit board or just keep with the same thing i'm doing, any advice would be appreciated

Again, personal preference.  I like the circuit board type, but don't care for the lack of clarity.  The molded lips work well,  but the action is slightly different then the circuit board.  Lexan lips, .......... I guess the short answer is I have used all of these, have most of them in my parts drawers, and find that different baits benefit from different materials.

If you are still in the testing and development state, then expect that it will take time to 'get it right'.  If you are already in the production phase, best to stay with works well for you.

[BobP]

The classic tow eye for square bills was soft brass.  Nowadays, many of us prefer soft temper stainless steel.  I buy mine from McMaster-Carr online in Malin 1/4 lb spools, .041” diameter.  It’s easy to hand twist for a tow eye and while it’s hard enough to maintain its tuning, it’s soft enough to adjust without danger of cracking the bait’s finish.  I twist them on a drill bit clamped in a vise with the wire held by vise grips.  As to lip material, I use either 1/16”  polycarbonate (aka Lexan) or G10 1/32” circuit board, with a preference for G10 on square bills for its better rebound quality off of cover and sharper swim action.

Edited February 27, 2018 by BobP

[mark poulson]

I build with PVC, so I can tune my lures before I paint and top coat them.

I use sst screw eyes a lot of the time for line ties, and am able to tune them first, because I use PVC.

If I were making a wooden bait with a sst screw eye line tie, I would seal the bait before I painted it with runny super glue, test swim it and tune it, then dry it and proceed with my paint job.