Glideb8 Posted March 12, 2018 Report Share Posted March 12, 2018 (edited) I'm going to be painting up some used pointer 170s. I just wanted some advice on how the heck to top coat each side without clogging up the joints. I know I've read that people use liquid frisket or rubber bands, but that joint opening is pretty small for rubber bands. Would liquid frisket really work if I just applied it to the screw eye/pin hinge in the joint? Anybody with experience clear coating some swimbaits/crankbaits with joints this close together? Thanks in advance! Edited March 12, 2018 by Glideb8 adding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21xdc Posted March 13, 2018 Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 smaller rubber bands 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glideb8 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2018 If they're as small as that type you have, I'm going to need some magnifying glasses and tweezers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 I use Rustoleum X2 Gloss Clear in a rattle can. It is not idea, because prolonged contact with a soft plastic bait, like a worm or a swimbait, will soften the finish, so I am careful to keep my baits separated. An aerosol spray let's me coat the faces of the baits without clogging up the joints. I use two coats, 20 minutes apart. I'm sure there are other aerosol clears (KBS Diamond Clear comes to mind) that will allow you to coat your lures without clogging the joints. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 The same way you skin a porcupine - veeerry carefully! No, seriously, with a wood bait i make sure joints are well sealed with superglue. Spray some paint right on the joints heat set it. The paint doesn't stick as well as epoxy for some reason. Then I apply thinned epoxy very carefully around the joints. Keep the nose up so excess flows away from the joint. Only one coat goes close to the joint. The other coats can be kept well away, as not much protection is needed between the joints. You will still get some on the joint. But you can work it with a drop of oil once fully cured. FULLY CURED epoxy is somewhat brittle. An old Exacto knife can also be used to clear some out. Just read Mark's comment - great minds! The water based paints don't stick as well as Krylon. You can even use the transparent base - paint with no pigment. Hope this helps. And I know some of you are going to ask.... Yes, i have skinned a porcupine. They have a strong flavor, though not bad in a survival situation. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 11 minutes ago, Chuck Young said: The same way you skin a porcupine - veeerry carefully! Yes, i have skinned a porcupine. They have a strong flavor, though not bad in a survival situation. Sounds like one of my honeymoons! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 You married a porcupine? Talk about the need to be carefull. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glideb8 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 On 3/13/2018 at 10:15 PM, mark poulson said: I use Rustoleum X2 Gloss Clear in a rattle can. It is not idea, because prolonged contact with a soft plastic bait, like a worm or a swimbait, will soften the finish, so I am careful to keep my baits separated. An aerosol spray let's me coat the faces of the baits without clogging up the joints. I use two coats, 20 minutes apart. I'm sure there are other aerosol clears (KBS Diamond Clear comes to mind) that will allow you to coat your lures without clogging the joints. Cool. I was thinking of using a spray clear, but wasn't sure how it would hold up. Thanks, Mark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porkmeatballs Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 I've used KBS clear (the rattle can one) on some of my baits. If you give the bait three or four coats, it's decently strong. The hook points may or may not scratch your bait a bit, but the KBS doesn't react with soft plastics as far as I can tell... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 I use rubber bands with no problems at all. I buy the mixed bags at wallyworld and the small size in the bags worked well in the past. I alos bought the really small rubber bands for kids hair but those were too small!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 auto clear. wire both ends taught. spray let dry . just let dry firm. then wiggle joinyts loose. .automotive clears give thin hard coats. especially on plastic baits...we sprya dozens of the sebille swimmer copies here with 2 jointed sections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 10 hours ago, woodieb8 said: auto clear. wire both ends taught. spray let dry . just let dry firm. then wiggle joinyts loose. .automotive clears give thin hard coats. especially on plastic baits...we sprya dozens of the sebille swimmer copies here with 2 jointed sections. What auto clear do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted April 1, 2018 Report Share Posted April 1, 2018 we use transtar. a quart with hardener is approx. 29.00 canadien funds. .it dries in 6 hours. finish is ultra clear and is u.v protected. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 I have used thin rolls of masking tape on some joints. Grainger sells 3M making tape that is only 1/8 inch wide. A 60 yards roll is $2.12 to $3.35 depending on the tape's thickness. I just wrap the tape around the joint a few times. It's also great for adding perch stripes and other details to a bait if you don't have stencils. https://www.grainger.com/category/masking-tapes/tapes/adhesives-sealants-and-tape/ecatalog/N-85cZ1z0fgu0?okey=1%2F8"+masking+tape&mkey=Masking+Tapes+1%2F8"+Tape+Width+&NLSCM=4&EndecaKeyword=Masking+Tapes&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=1%2F8"+masking+tape&sst=subset Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 15, 2018 Report Share Posted May 15, 2018 That thin masking tape is also available in auto parts stores. They use it for custom painting - flames, pinstripes, and the like. That is a great tip. I never thought of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.Bowerman Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 I’ve been dipping mine in KBS. Dip it slow and take it to where the blank sides start to turn into the hinge. I then take a q-tip dipped into KBS and apply it inside the V cut. I dip the tail first and after that has cured, I flip it and do the head. Works well for me. No stuck hinges (yet) and entire bait is covered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
