jonister Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Okay so I hate to start a top coat argument about what's better. I already have my ideas about top coat preferences, however I've never tried urethane and am curious what kind i want to get to seal and clear coat baits. I'm not using this on many baits, just some through wires poppers I've talked about. Possibly sealing big baits if it works and is quicker than two part. Could someone direct me to which stuff to try? Is it helmsman? Looking to get this from the hardware store. Not looking to buy DN or anything online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 If cheap, easy, and local is the selection process.... I would just get whatever the "cheapest" is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 @Travis well I don't care if it's "cheap" so much as just available. Like what am I looking for in a good eurethane? Indoor/outdoor? Or is there like something a little more water resistant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Best I could suggest is to look for a Marine Urethane. I know I have seen something like that at some of the boat dealers, so check out the dealers in the area and see what they have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Nearly all paint companies make a urethane clear coat. The higher the percentage of urethane the better. Semi gloss is semigloss , "high gloss", and "clear gloss" are the two that have the good shine we want on lures. These are usually made for furniture or cabinet finishes for the home use. I don't know how much water protection they have. I would soak a scrap piece of wood finished with the urethane to see how it reacts to water submersion. One thing to be sure of is it will turn amber with age. You should be able to dip lures into this finish and hang. There is not a big problem with saving the finish when the can is opened. It will usually skim over in the can as used. Just gently cut the skim open enough to stick the lure through. Sand between coats with 320 grit paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 I used Helmsman Spar Urethane on a few baits in the past before switching to 2 part epoxy. The Spar's durability seemed better than other urethanes. The bait will smell for while which will fade away after a few uses. As MG said, it will amber/yellow over time. I also used it on the supports and decking for my 14' jon boat. I have used the boat for over a decade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 I picked up some MINWAX fast drying Polyurethane. Gave it a try on some bobbers and a scrap peice of wood to see how it will react. It is oil based. hoping to see some quality water resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 (edited) "AMBER ALERT" From my past experience with Min Wax "Fast Dry Polyurethane" it will provide a high gloss , up side. The finish will turn very amber in a short period of time, down side. White belly lures become tan belly lures. The amber toning is not a problem when used as a wood finish, it's intended purpose. The bottom lure had fewer coats of MinWax poly but the lip was also dipped with noticeable amber toning. Edited March 22, 2018 by JimP more info. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 As long as I know it seals wood. I have my test piece to cut into today. Also, the amber look could be a pretty cool look if one was going for an antique look. My plan is to stick with sealing and just use my regular clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 I have tried most if not all back in the day, just found time again a few months ago to start building and posted a similar question you can look that up if you wanted more in-depth. you probably already know KBS is the best thing going right now but you cannot get it at local big box store. Of what I have tried at local big box the best is a Lacquer concrete sealer Green and Black metal container. it has a few down sides like the finish is rock hard but can be brittle if you hit some rip rap. Also if left in a tackle box it seems to react to plastic. If you are going local and big box look in the concrete sealer section or pool sealing sections thats where I found the most success with those products. I still use AC1315 for sealing all my baits it lasted in a mason jar for years so it doesn't flash easy and seals good and hard pretty fast. I think gemseal is the same as AC1315. Dont waste your time on anything waterbourne or water based IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 I used a concrete sealer from Sherwood Williams and when I put my hook protectors on after awhile the stuck to the lure and screwed them up. So I have to cover with KBS which I believe to be the best. The hook protectors were tubing from McMaster Carr, also check out plastic worms on the sealer. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 I have used Minwax Wood Hardener as a sealer after reading about it in another post . It works good as a sealer. It will last in the can indefinitely. It is thin and can get into small openings. It is easy to apply just by dipping. I use water bottles with the top cut off or empty Crystal Light tube packages. You can also just brush it on. The longer you leave the lure in the hardener, the deeper it penetrates into the wood. The downside is it if you leave the lure over night in the hardener, it will take a few days to off gas. It does not work as a top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 3 hours ago, ravenlures said: I used a concrete sealer from Sherwood Williams and when I put my hook protectors on after awhile the stuck to the lure and screwed them up. So I have to cover with KBS which I believe to be the best. The hook protectors were tubing from McMaster Carr, also check out plastic worms on the sealer. Wayne If you still want to use the concrete sealer, try painting the hook swing areas with clear nail polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 If you decide to go with polyurethane, do not use Helmsman. It starts yellow and turns yellower. Use a clear "moisture cure polyurethane". MCU is crystal clear and cures when exposed to air (oxygen). They use it to seal swimming pools. It has to be kept in an air tight container. Any air in the container has to be driven out with argon (Bloxygen). It is thin, so two coats will not give you the coating thickness as 1 coat of E- tex. Research it well before you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 I have used both ac1315 and KBS for clearcoats. This however is simply for sealing baits. I think the poly should work, but I'm still testing it out. At some point I'll get back into the ac1315, as I love the feel of it. My problem back when I tried that was cure time, but after sitting in tackle boxes for a while the lures all are rock hard now. KBS was nice but all mine died after a while. I simply don't use it fast enough. I used to use the minwax to seal baits but just worryed so much that is wasn't sealing good. Might go back to it as well. All good stuff here. Thanks guys. If I have some issues with the water penetrating the poly, I'll report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 I should have been clearer on my original post. This is just for sealing baits. Not clearcoating. I'm an artresin junkie. I put that sh#t on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 If you want to seal raw wood, have you tried runny superglue? Fumes are atrocious, so vent well. But advantages are: 1) penetrates, seals, and strengthens wood (heck - it turns balsa into concrete). 2) breaks off joints in swim bait easily. 3) provides a great base for paint - not too slick, even when sanded. 4) cure time is not bad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 I have tried a bunch of poly's and I used to think like you "just for sealing" but when we started testing them on here probably 5 years ago+ none of them held up to a dunk test for extended periods. So it left me thinking if you wear through your TC with like hook rash and have just your sealer left I want something that is waterproof. I have put all this time into a bait I just do not want to take chances or be cheap on something that I can control. Thats why I use the ac1315 now! I have a bunch and its downfalls dont matter as a sealer. I have also used superglue but its just too hard to get a smooth final product. When I am testing or prototyping I use it exclusively. shoot I still have a few baits I fish unpainted just sealed with superglue. I fished a pro am awhile back and and I was on a good topwater swimbait bite. I had this half ac plug/slammer/rat concoction I made that looked terrible like a turd with a joint. it was unpainted just had numerous coats of superglue. It just looked so bad I never painted it but it flat out stuck em! anyway I pull my rod out with this bait on it and my am who was a young kid just turned 16 said you arent going to really throw that are you? I just chuckled and said well I want to just try it out for a bit i have a hunch. well that bait went to work and stuck an 8, 5 and two 4's. the kid threw everything he had I even let him trow a wake jr of mine but he couldnt get em to go. we ended up with 24 lbs and 5th or something. I gave him that bait at the end of the day and he was JACKED. he still hits me up on FB now and then and as far as I know that bait is still not painted with more coats of superglue on it. lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobv Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Good point Matt, the dunk test will rule out lots of clears. Put the clear on and submerge it over night. The good ones stay clear the other turn milky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 I guess I'll just use it to refinish the coffee table as was my original front. Super glue is easy too. Come to think of it im almost out.. Dang I want to get some more ac1315 now. Would you wait a few months to test it if you seal with ac1315, like you would if you were to fish it as a top coat? Or just give it a few days? Anything else to add to the shopping list? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munkin Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 What is AC135 and where can I get some? Allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblue2 Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 minwax fast drying poly is great just apply a few coats it really holds up well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
