good way to fill up truewire slit ?

[ddl]

guys did you know a good way to fill up the slit when you make a true wire wooden crankbait .im looking for something else than epoxy mixed with wood dust. i have seen a kind of putty with an activator. but i know nothing about it,is that good what's the good brand etc 

Edited May 10, 2018 by ddl

[BobP]

I’d probably use an epoxy putty stick.  But think you are probably talking about auto body filler.  Either is fast.  Body filler is sandable.

[ddl]

hi bob

do yo know a good brand ? doe's these things have a kind of red paste called activator or something ?

tks

[eastman03]

This is the way I also do most of my thru wire, and I've been trying to figure out how to do this best as well.  I use epoxy just to glue the wire into the slot, then I use bondo (car body filler) to finish off the slot.  I've seen guys on youtube use a two part epoxy putty which looks like a cool product, but I've never seen it in any store.  Bondo works ok, bit of a learning curve otherwise you can have gaps and bubbles when you sand it.  I also let it harden up just enough so I can use a sharp knife and trim off most of the excess flush with the body of the lure (usually only around 15 min).  Trust me, that stuff is rock hard, don't want to sand down a thick layer, and it hardens up pretty fast.    Car body filler is also relatively cheap for how much you get, and it comes with a small activator tube, so you can use little bits at a time.   I buy mine at Canadian tire.

Let me know if you find a better way to do it! I'm all ears.

Edited May 10, 2018 by eastman03

[ddl]

tks to both of you. bob it look like you got it,i think it's for car but it's strange every google image search that i made with the key word activator end up with European product . edit ive found your bondo ,it look like exactly what i want

Edited May 10, 2018 by ddl

[mark poulson]

When I use bondo as a filler, after I've sanded it to shape, I apply a coat of runny super glue to the bondo.

It soaks into the bondo, and makes it both harder and stronger.  

I do a light 400 grit sanding last, in case there are any imperfections in the glue.

[ddl]

good idea,ive seen 4 to 5 different bondo ,is that the one you talking about ? http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Hardware/Automotive/Body-Repair/Fillers/Fillers/397g-Body-Filler-with-Hardener/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I8659604?Ntt=bondo

[Salty's]

THICK CA GLUE AND FLASH ACCELERATOR

[mark poulson]

1 hour ago, ddl said:

good idea,ive seen 4 to 5 different bondo ,is that the one you talking about ? http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Hardware/Automotive/Body-Repair/Fillers/Fillers/397g-Body-Filler-with-Hardener/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I8659604?Ntt=bondo

That's what I use.

[ddl]

perfect .it look really tuff ! im very impressed. my choice will be bondo for sure .look at that vid.

 

[ddl]

hey mark did you have ever got trouble without the glue or it's just to make sure ? it look already really solid from all the vids i have seen

[mark poulson]

12 hours ago, ddl said:

hey mark did you have ever got trouble without the glue or it's just to make sure ? it look already really solid from all the vids i have seen

I've found that, the more hardener you add, the faster it sets up, but the more brittle it is.  It also doesn't bond as well with the thing I apply it to if i add too much hardener.  So I rely on the runny super glue to insure a good bond.

Before I top coated it with crazy glue, I had filler over rattle chambers pop off.  Once I started top coating with the runny glue, no more pop offs.  So I do it to everything I bondo now, just to give it that added strength and hardness.

Edited May 13, 2018 by mark poulson

[ravenlures]

Has anyone tried this Flex Glue that is on TV the stuff for gutters. It seems to work fast , I am thinking of using it on lips.

Wayne

[Matt Moreau]

Bondo with CA and fast activator.....Cant go wrong!

 

[eastman03]

I'm with Mark.  If you add a lot of the hardening agent, it sets up real fast.  That is when I have run into problems getting it smooth and filled up in the slot.  So I add a bit less hardener and it seems to give me a bit extra working time.  I also give my lures a thin coat of envirotex before I prime and paint.  I've never had a problem with the bondo not adhering to anything, but I've only made a few dozen lures, so I'm still figuring out a good process for myself.   Let us know how it goes for you.

[Chuck Young]

The two part epoxy putty that some have mentioned comes in a small (4oz?) tube and is sold in auto parts stores and hardware stores. The product is in a roll shape with one element in the center (black) and one  element on the outside (grey). I use to sell te stuff. You cut off slices and then knead it until it is one color. It is fairly thick in consistency and sets up quickly. You would have to pack it into the slot, and weaker woods would not be able to handle the pressure. It does not sand as well as the wood. Bondo would be better, IMHO.

[Chuck Young]

Flex glue is rubber. Not sure it would take anything like paint or top coat. 

Personally, I really like using epoxy with filler - either micro-balloons  or wood dust. To me it makes the lure stronger. And it sands well - if you use the right ratio.  Plus, you can make it as thick or thin as you need by changing the ratio of filler. 

[woodieb8]

I agree with chuck. fast and efficient. everyone has sawdust lol.

[ravenlures]

Here's a little tip on mixing epoxy or any two part glue. I go on my computer and draw different size circles two of the same size next to each other spread them out on the sheet so that you can cut them out into squares 3X3" or what you generally need. Then squeeze out to the circle part A on one and part B on the other, then mix, pretty darn close. I also print on some index or heaver paper.   It works for me!

Wayne

I will have to try micro balloons for a mixer filler.

[eastman03]

So when you guys are talking epoxy for the slot, is it like a 5 minute epoxy or something more like enviortex?  I also have a west systems 15minute epoxy which is very strong.  The problem is for me that it starts to leak out of the ends especially if my lure isn't flat bottom, creating a huge mess and not completely filling the slot.  I've never added sawdust which I would imagine would help.  And I usually make 8-14" lures, so 5 minute epoxy in those small tubes would be way to expensive.  I usually do a bit of epoxy, then fill the rest up with bondo, but it is time consuming and difficult to end up with a very smooth product.  Just looking to make this a bit easier, wondering if anyone has any other tips.  I think for myself, I also need a thin kerf blade, that would help a bit also.  I cut my slot with a radial arm saw that I made a jig on, that works great.

[Chuck Young]

If the epoxy elements  are  different viscousities,  the circle thing won't  be exact. A less viscous (runnier) substance will have less volume in the same diameter because it will be flatter.  However with thicker epoxies, you cannot measure them with syringes. Guesstimating with the circle thing or with 2 lengths of  similar size beads will probably  be sufficient. I use the two 4.25 oz bottles of devcon 2 ton. I squeeze both beads out at the same time. I also am very careful to cut the new bottle nozzles evenly. 

With E tex, it is thin enough to measure  with a syringe.  So that is what I do. 

Eastman, use 30 min 2 ton. Mix it, gradually add either sawdust or micro-balloons until it is the consistency of putty.  Then cram it in there with a putty knife or something similar. Remember that the working time of epoxy can be reduced by as much as 1/2 when you add that much filler. The epoxy will still bond very well with the wood, but you can tool it. Plus it sands easily. 

[Chuck Young]

It also becomes less dense, but still more dense than water.