Using masking tape

[Mr.Stone]

Good evening everyone.

When using masking tape to mask off an area while painting with a water-based paint, do you clean off any sticky residue left behind before applying a clear coat? That is if there is something left behind. Im referring to normal cream coloured masking tape you would find in a hardware store.

While on the subject, is the so called "low tack tape" worth getting?

 

Thank you:)

 

[benton B]

Blue painter's tape works well for me and does not leave the residue behind.

[21xdc]

Blue painters tape is best. 

[BobP]

I use regular tack blue tape on lips because I hold baits with locking forceps and the lowntack tape will slip when pressured.  If you are using tape over painted body, the low tack tape is better. 

[Mr.Stone]

5 hours ago, BobP said:

I use regular tack blue tape on lips because I hold baits with locking forceps and the lowntack tape will slip when pressured.  If you are using tape over painted body, the low tack tape is better. 

Is the regular tack blue tape you referring to the same blue painters tape that benton B and 21xdc is talking about? I want to paint a background (so to speak) then mask off parts of it then paint over that, so I will be placing the tape over some paint.

Im off to the hardware store now to see if I can pick up some blue painters tape. I want to order some locking forceps as they look much more comfortable to work with, at the moment im using a fly tying vice, is not bad but has some issues.

Thank you BobP, 21xdc and benton B your advice is appreciated

[Kris]

Blue Painter's tape.  I get mine at Wal-Mart or Lowe's.  Low tack and works great.  Never had a problem with.

[Mr.Stone]

I got some blue painters tape finally, had to go to a couple of hardware stores to find it. Now I just need to make time to paint some lures to see how it works:)

[BobP]

Yeah, blue panter’s tape is sold in regular and low tack versions by several companies. The regular tack version may or may not work to mask off just painted airbrush paint. On some paint, it can lift off the paint when removed.

[Chuck Young]

I would worry about using tape to mask an already painted area. That paint is easy to pull off. If possible, use a stencil instead. 

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/31562-vacuform-machine-for-clam-shell-style-stencils/

 

[Chuck Young]

Once you make a stencil, or a series of stencils, you can reuse them on the same blank indefinitely. The transparent stencils can be put over your partially painted lure. You can then mark it with a sharpie (ultra fine point). Mistakes can be erased with acetone or hair spray. Being able to see the current paint through the plastic gives you a clear advantage (pun intended). You can get it just right before cutting it with a Dremel, Exacto, or fine scissors. 

[Mr.Stone]

The blue painters tape I got seems like regular tack,  the only difference between this and normal masking tape is the price and colour. Out of curiosity I took a small piece of tape and applied it over a hardbait that I messed up the painting, the bait had foil on the sides. The tape took off the paint that was over the foil, but the paint that was over the wood had not been removed. So im thinking its likely that heat set paint might pull off, but we will see. Might also be that the paint has better adhesion over a sanded surface than a smooth foil surface.

Chuck, that looks like an ideal method for making a stencil, especially if you're making a split body lure, as you would have two halves. I would definitely try that once I get my shapes more consistent, I shape my lures by hand, and even though I start with more or less the same initial shape they never end up the same. So I would have to make one stencil for each lure:) 

 

 

[BobP]

There are different kinds of stencils made from different materials.  The easiest for me are made from frisket material, a fairly soft plastic sheet with an adhesive back covered with a peel-off paper backing, manufactured for airbrush use.  It’s easy to cut with an Xacto knife.  The key is that I don’t peel off the backing and stick it on the lure.  I leave the backing and just hold it against the lure.  Then I wipe the overspray off and flip the stencil to do the other side of the lure.  This has 2 advantages.  I don’t have to make matching stencils for both sides, and I can save my stencils to build up a library for use on later lures.  The disadvantage is that it is harder to know where the stencil should be held unless you mark spots on them to help you register exactly where they go on the lure’s side.  I’ve made dozens of stencils and have built up a library through the years.  Enough that I rarely need to make a new one.  A roll of frisket material is cheap and is enough to make hundreds of stencils.  Is it better than a vacuum formed stencil?  No.  But it’s easier and faster to make and can be used on different body shapes and sizes, which suits my hobby building.

[Mr.Stone]

Thank you BobP. Some good advice given here. I used some kind of plastic cutting board, about 1,5mm thick to make stencils but this is hard to cut neatly and requires multiple cuts with a exacto knife. I then got some plastic book binding covers and although they are somewhat thinner than the plastic cutting board an exacto knife has a harder time  getting through that. Ill look for frisket around here and try that:)

[Chuck Young]

Another thing you may want to try is medium thickness binder covers. I use them for the vacuu-formed stencils. But the can be cut without the molding process. One flat stencil would do both sides. Just mark the outline of your lure with a permanent marker so both sides are exactly the same.

[Chuck Young]

Marking the eye location and lat line (if there is one) can also be good markers. 

Like Bob, I also have a large collection of stencils - both flat and formed. I keep them organized on in ziploc bags on alphabetized peghooks (Bass, Bluegill, crappie, craw, etc). Listed on each bag is the model of the blanks they fit. That way I know if I need to cut a new one. 

I am not OCD. I just have a very bad memory due to physical and mental ailments.

Edited June 6, 2018 by Chuck Young

[Mr.Stone]

Thank you Chuck,  I tried the book binder material to make stencils, the ones I made I did wrong, for some reason I have an overwhelming urge to paint true flames on a lure but I made these a bit big and my understanding and experience with airbrushing is still to limited to try this, plus its impractical. I painted my second ever batch of hard baits (3 of them) yesterday, the results are much better but stil can be improved a lot. I would like to upload some pictures to the gallery but it seems like I cant do that from my phone, so maybe when I can remember my password ill take some photos and upload them using a pc:)

[Chuck Young]

Post some pics to the gallery. You will get some helpful advice. Be patient. It takes time.  All of us are still learning.

[ravenlures]

So which is the low tac 14 day or the 60 day, blue tape. I just bought some 14 day.

 

Wayne

[Chuck Young]

My guess would be that the longer it sticks, the tackier it is. Using this reasoning, you have the low tack. 

[ravenlures]

Thanks Chuck that was mine.

Wayne

[JD_mudbug]

I believe that is incorrect on the masking tape. The 'day' number of the tape indicates the amount of days the tape can supposedly stay on a surface with a 'clean' removal, as long as it is not exposed to sunlight or heat.   I use 60 day tape which is very low tack.

The lower the 'day' number, the higher the tack, the higher the chance of peeling off the underlying paint.

The 60 day tape will have less tack than the 14 day tape.

Typical blue painters tape is 14 day tape, relatively high tack.

 

"Scotch 60-Day Ultimate Paint Edge Masking Tape 2480S is a thin, strong, smooth, flat back paper tape that provides straight, sharp paint lines with a low paint ridge, indoors or outdoors. A strong acrylic adhesive holds on contact to most surfaces, yet peels away smoothly and cleanly without residue and fogging, even after 60 days in the sun or temperature exposure of up to 200°F."

Scotch Blue Painter's Tape is among the top selling painter's tape in the U.S. for a reason-it's the original blue tape that both pros and DIY painters have loved for more than 25 years. It can be used on a variety of surfaces: walls, trim, glass and metal, and it removes cleanly for up to 14 days and will not cause surface damage within that period, even if it's exposed to direct sunlight."

 

[Chuck Young]

Well, there you have it! My guess was entirely wrong. Once again we learn from a mistake. That's life.

[JD_mudbug]

So, true!

This past winter, I decided to make some different types of baits I had never made before.   I made so many mistakes including some of the epic variety.  I even managed to implode a Shop-Vac when attempting to make my first stencil with a vacuum-form stencil box.  It was a great learning experience.  Note to self: do not use plastic materials of unknown origin.

The only reason I knew about the tape was last year I noticed the different day numbers.  I had never noticed those before.  I was in the store trying to figure out which would be best for lure painting, making the same rationalization as you.  One of the employees in the store saw me looking at the different tapes and told me what the numbers meant.  

 

 

[ravenlures]

Well back to Menards for me, Thanks

Wayne