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Chuck Young

overcoat for chrome?

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I am trying to find a true chrome finish. For lure painting, some kind of epoxy or other over coat absolutely has to be applied. I have researched Spazstix, but apparently it turns dull under epoxy or any other clear coat. Does anyone have a solution for this? I am looking for a true chrome finish I can use as a base, to which water based paints and epoxy clearcoats can be applied. I am counting on you guys to come up with some real solutions. Please rate the shine on a 1 - 10 scale with both a topcoat and without. 

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8 hours ago, 21xdc said:

Where have you been? 1000's of guys ask the same thing

 

2 hours ago, MonteSS said:

Your best bet it foil tape and a heat press

 

LOL - I doubt I could have said it better myself.

Some chromes/paints maintain more of there shine if you use a spray on clear first, but brush on always kills it.

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ALSA also has drying and prep requirements that would require tons and tons of time for each lure.  I posted them maybe 6 to 12 months ago.

To be honest, the search feature for chrome on this site should light up like a Christmas Tree.

Still, to keep the research up, I talked to a person I just met that did Auto Body for years.  He is dying from the Bondo Dust, the Automotive Paint, etc., in his lungs, and he wore the "correct" respirator recommended in "the day".  Auto Paints are known for creating metallic and candy finishes, so I did ask the questions.  He is not a fan of the water based paints, but does say that they are probably healthier then the old solvent only paints.  Most "water based" automotive paints still require a respirator and do have some solvent in them.

My research to date suggest (not always tested) the following:

Base Coat Sealer -- this will provide a proper base so you get the best results with the Automotive paints.  It will adhere to almost anything.

https://airbrushpaintdirect.com/product/6001-autoborne-sealer-white/

Aluminum  -- This will give an almost chrome finish, especially if shot over a black base.  DO NOT brush, touch, dust, etc., prior to coating over it or it will lose the shine.  I have used this with a medium needle in my Talon AB (fine Aluminum) and would rate it a 8/10 after clear coated.

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Aluminum-Base-Coat-Med-4oz/productinfo/162665/

Metallic Silver -- an option to the Aluminum.

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Metallic-Silver-4oz/productinfo/163178/

Cleaner

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Cleaner-16oz/productinfo/162620/

Reducer

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Fast-Dry-Reducer-16oz/productinfo/162570/

Restorer

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Restorer-16oz/productinfo/162562/

Transparent Base

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Transparent-Base-4oz/productinfo/161224/

Metallic White - Can get metallic results from putting transparent paints over it.

http://www.airbrush.com/AA-Metallic-White-Fine-4oz/productinfo/163174/

 

  • 4012 -- Generally added 10% per volume to paint. May be added in greater quantities to achieve best viscosity for atomization of paint. Non-reactive; does not serve as a catalyst.
  • 4030 Balancing Clear | Mix Additive – Essential additive that enhances spray performance & coating durability. Mix with all Auto-Air Colors prior to use.
  • Mix 4030 Balancing Clear 10 - 25% per volume or more with Auto-Air Colors for improved performance on non-porous, hard surfaces.
  • Special mix ratio for candy2o: airbrush – 50% per vol. , spray-gun 50 to 100% per vol.
  • 4030 mixed with Auto-Air Colors paint creates an acrylic-urethane paint which greatly improves spray performance.
  • Leveling, flow and coating formation is improved when 4030 is mixed with Auto-Air Colors.
  • 4030 works as an adhesion promoter when mixed with Auto-Air Colors, perfect for painting plastics, vinyl and most any surface that is difficult for paint to adhere to.
  • Auto-Air Colors dry hard and durable quickly when mixed with 4030.
  • 4030 also works as an inter-coat when applied over Auto-Air Colors. Reduce 10% 4012 High Performance Reducer when applying 4030 as an inter-coat. 4030 DOES NOT PREVENT BLEED-THROUGH of candy2o into other candy2o colors.  Use a catalyzed clear to lock candy2o when painting successive candy colors.
  • 4030 appears milky in solution, dries clear.  Colors dry satin finish when mixed with 4030.

 

I have given you all that I can for now.  I have three other help guides from Createx Auto-Air paints, including their Hard Surface Application Guide but they are too big to attach.  PM me if you want them.

Once I move in September I hope to have a painting booth again, and will try to test some of these.  One thing that bothers me is that the paints are designed for HVLP systems, not air brushes.  To use Air Brushes, small tips are only for the Candy colors.  For Air Brushes, Large Tips, 30 PSI+ are required for pearls, aluminums, metallics, sparkle, and Sealers.  In some cases the additives 4012 and 4030 are both used and up to 50%.

I know that Automotive paints will give chrome effects, but...... I don't know that I am up to the task.

So, as Monte points out...... foils, or heat press, or perhaps even fingernail foils.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60-Colors-Nail-Art-Stickers-Tips-Wraps-Transfer-Foil-US-SELLER-BUY2GET1FREE-B/253144616357?hash=item3af0984da5:m:mh63NElr9MKgRcW_MeA7h4g

Or fingernail powders and polish

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mirror-Chrome-Effect-Nail-Powder-No-Polish-Foil-Nails-Art-Glitter-Silver-Shiny/201657004380?epid=1085536844&hash=item2ef3b1b15c:g:otcAAOSwMgdXxcHS

https://www.ebay.com/i/292197466256?chn=ps

Or, back to foams, the holographic foils by WTP are awesome.  I got their catalog and if only a picture would do them justice.  Their foils are awesome and the holographics are stretchable.  The catalog has sample pieces of each foam and  it is so much better than what you get on a screen.

http://www.wtp-inc.com/color-card/

Touch subject, I wish we had a solution to date.

 

 

 

 

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A chrome look is possible to achieve with some of these products - but the one factor not in your favor is it continuing to look like chrome after it's painted... I gave up and just use a silver metallic (or foil like mentioned above).   Most "chrome" paints and finishes do not want to be overcoated... so the second you put epoxy or anything over them - the dull out and look like a silver pretty quick.

 

And FYI on the Spazstix stuff.... it's beautiful sprayed on the inside of clear plastic parts backed/protected with black... but you can't reverse it.... ie laying down black then spraying the silver as it's VERY fragile - if you touch it you'll out a finger print on it which you CAN'T remove - so you try and  overcoat it - which dulls it and you might as well just have bought some rustolem!

 

Other options I've looked at but haven't tried are foil transfers... like gold leaf/etc.... might work depending on you lure shape.

 

   J.

 

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They are updating this stuff all the time. I have purchased some holographic silver nail art powder. It looks great on nails but you have to buff it and cannot coat it. 

Heat transfer machines are available online for $150 or so. But I question the quality I have seen videos of people applying HT foils with an iron set on "cotton". If I could find the 1/2" rubberized HT pad, I would try attaching it to a hand iron. It might work.

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7 hours ago, Chuck Young said:

They are updating this stuff all the time.

And that is the reason so many of us keep looking.  I even looked at doing small scale electroplating, but ....... environmental issues prohibit it.

7 hours ago, Chuck Young said:

I have purchased some holographic silver nail art powder. It looks great on nails but you have to buff it and cannot coat it. 

I have seen some claims that you can coat it, but must not brush the coat on.  Sally Hansen Hard as Nails clear is reported to work if you do not touch the surface with the brush.  I have my doubts (LOL) but will test it some day.

I have used chrome Krylon and found out that if I use the Hard as Nails and did not touch the surface with a  brush, or my fingers, it came out pretty well.  I then used my UV cure over that.  Still, lots more testing to do.

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I just ordered some auto air Krome that is sprayed lightly over a special gloss black.  Did I waste my $$?

I've also been using silver leaf.  Not bad, but tricky to deal with.  Not shiny as chrome.

I've used foil tape with success; but not on jointed swimbaits.  It breaks apart and the epoxy coat flakes off.  Same results with aluminum foil.  Anyone have any suggestions?

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