How do I secure screw in hardware?

[earthworm77]

I have made some small crankbaits that utilize screw in hook eyes.
The smallish nature (2 sizes-1 5/8" and 2") of these baits prevented me from using a through wire form construction.

I have drilled into the baits about half the length of the threads so that the screw will have something to grip into.
I would like to secure the screws from any movement, will devcon epoxy or Zap a Gap CA + work? Any ideas appreciated.

 

Edited August 11, 2018 by earthworm77

[AZ Fisher]

While I haven't made anything that small, I use D2T 30 for both wood and resin swimbaits.  Just dab up the excess after you run the eyescrew in. Those look cool,   mini-spy's

[BobP]

Either CA or epoxy will work.

[Chuck Young]

Personally, I would shy away from CA. Epoxies give you a longer working time. Imagine having the superglue set before the screw gets all the way in. That would not be good. Those look great by the way.

With some woods, you have to worry about the screws splitting the wood. With epoxy, you can drill all the way. It will fill the gaps and soak into the wood. This technique also allows for the perfect alignment of screws .

[mark poulson]

10 hours ago, Chuck Young said:

Personally, I would shy away from CA. Epoxies give you a longer working time. Imagine having the superglue set before the screw gets all the way in. That would not be good. Those look great by the way.

With some woods, you have to worry about the screws splitting the wood. With epoxy, you can drill all the way. It will fill the gaps and soak into the wood. This technique also allows for the perfect alignment of screws .

I've had the opposite experience.

I actually use runny super glue to reinforce the thread holes in my balsa baits.  I drill a small pilot hole, run the screw in and then back out again, to cut the threads in the wood.  Then I put a drop or two of runny super glue over the hole, using a wire to get it down in, and let it soak into the wood.   I think the glue soaks into the wood and reinforces the area around the hole.   After a minute, I coat the screw threads with brush-on super glue, which has a longer setting time, and run the screw into the hole again.  I don't have screws seize before they are in position, and the squeeze out forms a locking "faring" at the base of the screw eye, to further prevent unscrewing.   I've never had a screw eye pull out, or unscrew.

[Chuck Young]

I have used the same technique on balsa airplanes for anchoring the wing bolts.  . But I had to use a tap to cut the threads between each application of CA. With balsa, CA may penetrate better. But with harder woods, drilling the entire length of the screw eye and using epoxy (which probably fills gaps better than runny superglue) will keep you from splitting the wood. This is cat skinning territory - but it also varies from situation to situation.