Etching nickle plated spinners

[Tomchip2]

Hello to the group.  Newby here.  Name is Tom. Just thought about my hobby challenge and located this site. I purchased a large number of nickle plated spinner and willow blades from Hagens to make walleye rigs.  Have an airbrush Iwata HP Cplus and compressor on the way.  Getting nervous about what I read with the difficulty of getting paint to stick (went the powder paint route before.).  Understand I need to etch these nickle spinners. Chemicals (HCL) rather not get into if avoidable.  Was wondering is an abrasive in a rock tumbler would do the trick.  Figure someone probably has an answer - I hope.  Thanks for your input. A little bored in retirement come winter.

[BobP]

I don’t know anything about chemical etching, but any way you want to do mechanical etching should work ok.  On the blades, jigs and spoons I’ve painted, the most important step in getting a durable product has been the kind of clearcoat you use.  And for that, there’s no better clear than moisture cured urethane.  I use Dick Nite S81 MCU which is used by a commercial spoon manufacturer and sold to TU members at a discount.  It forms a thin very durable glossy coating and seems to penetrate water based acrylic airbrush paint and bond with the metal underneath.  Fine stuff.  It will not chip off of metal edges like epoxy does.  Many TU members favor KBS Diamond Coat MCU for crankbaits.  It’s less touchy to handle and the cost is equivalent to Dick Nite but I haven’t used it on metal so can’t comment on its penetrating quality in that application.  It is sold by many online auto paint outlets like Jegs, etc, as well as by the factory.  There are many TU threads on application and storage procedures of both products which you should peruse before using MCU. 

[Tomchip2]

Thank you for the info BobP.  Wow, there is really a lot of consideration in moving into this adventure. It is great to be able to reach out to this group.  I’ll be experimenting in trying to figure out some type of etching process.  In the meantime half the fun, but not necessarily the expense, is figuring out the key to success.  Looking forward to this painting process.  Thanks again.  Will keep posting.

Tom

[mark poulson]

Rustoleum sells an etching primer in a spray can that bonds to anything, and takes paint really well.  It does have fumes, so either spray outside and with the wind at your back, or inside with a box blowing past you and out an open garage door.

I use it on spinnerbait heads, before I paint them with Createx and top coat with clear nail polish, and the heads hold up to fishing through tules, weeds, and wood.  Even the occasional rock encounter doesn't seem to be a problem.  The wire on the spinnerbait will become suspect (weak from rebending)  long before the paint on the head fails.

[Tomchip2]

Thank you Mark. Started searching the internet - late, late last night and spoke to a machinest buddy of mine.  Did additional research online.  Found an interesting article on Ferric Chloride etching that was geared towards etching copper curcuit boards.  Decided to try muriatic acid with hydrogen peroxide at 2:1 ratio.  Recommended to never use HCL.  Before anyone tries this get really familiar with the ups/down cautions.  Really excited how quickly this etches nickel plated spinners and willow blades.  Turns them a darkish color and the liquid starts to turn green.  First, I used acetone to wipe clean, then dipped them into a small container (plastic food throw away container). Heated punch and poked holes to make a collander.  Found a bigger plastic dish to hold the 2 part hydrogen peroxide to 1 part acid.  Pour acid into hydrogen peroxide, not the reverse.  Use glass or plastic measuring device.  Use mask, goggles and gloves and do it outside.  After you drop the plated spinners into the mix, stir with plastic spoon.  You see things darken quickly.  Didn’t take off all the plating.  Took out collander and rinsed outside with water then set into bath of baking soda and water.  That will cease etching.  Wiped down and hand buffed with fine steel wool, wiped down and test sprayed with white epoxy. Will try and attach pictures.  Fingers crossed.

Edited August 19, 2018 by Tomchip2
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[Tomchip2]

[Josh Buck]

I don't know if this will work on nickel, but it does work on steel and aluminum.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bV-PItEcLXY

[Tomchip2]

Interesting Josh. Have at least 1000 to do.  Airbrush coming.  Will test the chemical etching run and see how that goes.  You could get really creative with those electrodes.  Thanks for the tip.