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Since everyone is talking about the kbs I dont want to start a new topic but I've never used the stuff but I am interested in trying it, so my question is one label says high solids formula the other says direct to metal formula , which do I need for plastic cranks? I'm assuming the high solids formula but I didnt know if it mattered or not! Thanks for any help!!!

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I’ve never used KBS either but generally speaking it’s better to choose a high solids topcoat whenever possible because it’s usually more durable.  Urethane finishes when cured/dried only leave behind the solids they contain.  As to “direct to metal” I assume it contains metal etching chemicals that promote better adhesion.  Do they also etch plastics?  Don’t know but I’m doubtful.

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3 hours ago, 21xdc said:

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3 hours ago, 21xdc said:

 

Then I would try these... 

 

Krylon-Matte-Finish-1311.jpg

clear-rust-oleum-specialty-general-purpo

I use Rustoleum Clear X2 Gloss as a top coat on jointed baits and crankbaits, and I love it.

But I've found that it doesn't play nicely with soft plastics.  I think the softener in the plastics actually bleeds over and softens the X2.

I would keep that in mind for any spray acrylic that you use.  This is not to say it won't work, but you do need to be careful what you leave it in contact with for an extended period, like overnight.  Do a test piece first, to see if plastisol baits will affect it.

I use clear nail polish as a barrier on baits that have soft plastics attached, like rats, in the area of attachment, and I remove the tails after I'm done fishing for the day.  I store the tails in the same plano box as the rats, but in a separate compartment, and there's no problem, so it's really prolonged direct contact that is the danger.

I also keep my rods rigged with hard baits on one side of my deck, and soft plastic rigs on the other side, to avoid problems.

An hour's contact doesn't seem to cause damage, but I'm careful not to let them lay together on the deck, anyway.

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