a good epoxy review

[ddl]

 

[BobP]

Good stuff.  But it’s worth noting that the “bubble problem” is probably over-emphasized since we apply epoxy in much thinner coats that expel bubbles more readily than a 1/2” thick hockey puck.  And brushing technique also can make a big difference compared to pouring epoxy in volume.  Otherwise it was a great experiment and none of us had to buy all those epoxy samples.

[ddl]

personally i would try the one that made less bubbles.if it make less  for something that thick there is a lot of chance it will be the same thing with a thin coat.it,s kind of an extreme test .i would be more than happy if i can  skip the torch

[sonoman]

 One thing about bubbles is that if you see them at least you know the stuff is well mixed, they are easily dealt with, a cheap heat gun from harbor freight on the low setting and a turner and the bubbles are gone, I'd rather deal with the bubbles than poorly mixed epoxy.

[eastman03]

Very interesting, good watch.  There are a lot of good products out there.  The one thing I'm not fully sure on is if there is a difference between a art resin for casting and a epoxy resin for something like bar tops (envirotex)?  Or a product like Ecopoxy liquid plastic?   Some of the resins are designed for thick pours and some are designed for thin coats.  Yea great experiment.  It would be interesting to see all these pieces left outside for yellowing testing.

I agree with BobP, with the thin coats and a small amount of heat and brushing on, we are using these products basically outside of the manufactures specs.  So, with proper precaution bubbles are usually not to much of an issue (at least for some, not myself entirely).  Now if I could only get those darn fish eyes to go away. 

[RayburnGuy]

The only thing I can add is that I read somewhere (can't remember where) that using wooden stir sticks can introduce bubbles into your epoxy when mixing. I use a metal rod bent into a shepherds stick shape and seem to have a lot lot less problems with my epoxy than a lot of guys do.

 

Ben

[MonteSS]

I was going to say what Rayburn did about stirring with wood.

I bet that thin 7050 stuff would be good with a drying turner.

[RPM]

My takeaway is this, great review. Thank you.

There are many factors to consider but the one I must look at is the  finished product, That given it would seem lure builders would want the best finish possible. Clear, hard, durable, and easy to work with is the key.  I suggest watching the video many times to make your own determination, but remember this, I have found a product that is Rock hard, bullet proof, and almost indestructible as far as a finish is concerned, the only down fall is the cost, pot / shelf life and does not lend it's self to doing a few lures at a time, to bad but if you want the very best finish you can get at all cost, look into Sherwin Williams, Rexthane Amorseal, the only problem is cost per lure. So this brings us back to how many lures are you clear coating at a time? and how many do you do in a month? if you don't do several hundered or thousands, the Rexthane will not do you any good. Seems the best products have the shortest life span, so now lets be honest and say if your looking for friendly usability you will have to compromises, thus let the battle rage on of which clear coat is the best.    

[BobP]

Good point RPM.  If it weren’t for the cost, I’d probably be using  a doming UV cured polyester like AlumiUV.  And moisture cured urethanes like Dick Nite and KBS Diamond Coat have storage requirements that shorten their shelf life.  There’s no perfect finish in terms of low cost, ease of use, shelf life, and finished product.  You just have to pick one based on your particular needs.