MJ54 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 What do you guys recommend for topwater wood type for muskie baits? I have tried a search but every topic seems to have wood in it. My plan is to use screw eyes to hang hooks and am concerned with pull outs. I tried cedar which I have confidence in the screw eyes, but what I have tried tends to run below the surface from weight. Thanks for input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 (edited) The wood needs to be light enough to support some ballast to keep the lure upright and stable, and strong enough to hold screw eyes. I suggest anything with a density of 0.35 - 0.45g/cm3. There are plenty of wood lists with this information obtained with a simple Google search. Regardless of top or sink, all my lures are built with 0.35g/cm3. Albesia is a very cheap and light construction wood that works well for me. I doubt you will find it over there. Dave Edited March 19, 2019 by Vodkaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtlebait Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 I have made a bunch just out of pine stud 2x4’s. Drilling the right size holes and using long screw eyes makes a strong fit. One thing to think about is in my experience the screw eyes will generally show wear before fully pulling out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ54 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Thanks for the comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Quote CEDAR I use White Cedar less grain. wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Read this: The PVC decking I use (Azek) is as buoyant as poplar, and plenty strong to hold screw eyes. You can reduce the risk of pull outs on the belly hanger(s) by using a strong Spro swivel as your hook hanger, and passing a piece of spinnerbait wire from side to side through the eye that's embedded in the bait. That will keep the fish from being able to use the lure's weight as leverage to rip out the trebles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 20, 2019 Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Mark - I like that 'cross pin' idea. This method can also be used with twisted wire eyes. This is especially useful on very small cranks as often the depth of the twisted eye is compromised by available body space. I will definitely be giving this a go. The pin need not be metallic, a length of bamboo 'sate stick' will amply do the job. The 3mm diameter stick will have a large bearing area. The lure will be ripped in half before the hook hanger comes out. Who's a clever boy then Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ54 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 Mark - When you mention the spinnerbait wire method, that would be with a through wire set up correct? Sorry, I am new at this. The PVC idea is a good idea. Not sure how thick they make that stuff, so not sure it would work for the topwater I am trying to build. But for thinner baits, that is great idea. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 21 hours ago, MJ54 said: Mark - When you mention the spinnerbait wire method, that would be with a through wire set up correct? Sorry, I am new at this. The PVC idea is a good idea. Not sure how thick they make that stuff, so not sure it would work for the topwater I am trying to build. But for thinner baits, that is great idea. Thanks. I install my swivels with the embedded eye parallel to a line from the front of the lure to the back. That way, I can mark where it should be on the side of the lure before I install it, and then drill a hole from one side to the other for the spinnerbait wire. I install the swivel dry first, to be sure the wire pin actually passes through the embedded eye. It's simple to do a pull test at that point. If I find I've missed (heaven forbid), I just redrill and move the pin to engage the eye. Then I carefully glue the swivel in place, making sure not to glue the hook eye part. Last, I insert the pin, and glue over the pin holes with some super glue. The pin fits so tightly that the glue really isn't necessary, but it's part of my routine now. Vodkaman Dave is right. Any really strong pin material will work. Spinnerbait wire is just what I have on hand, so that's what I use. Once I found out it worked, I never looked for anything else. Too lazy! Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 24, 2019 Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 Mark's idea with the swivels is great! I love to do that as well. If you look at popular handmade baits, a few of them implement such methods and they seem to be popular. Just a tip though; go buy your swivels in person. Ive ordered stainless a few times offline and ended up with stainless shark swivels... make sure you like the size 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salty's Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Red, White, Yellow, some Port Orford Cedar Pines, not yellow. Eastern White and Sugar. You want high buoyancy woods especially for topwater. If you use fishing lure screweyes and epoxy or ca glue them in they will not pull. If you are that concerned use through wire technique like saltwater does. Not necessary if you have the right thread taper for the screw eyes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
