hfcbaits Posted May 2, 2019 Report Share Posted May 2, 2019 anyone know any solid ways of getting a good straight lip slot without a bandsaw? i've been using my dremel moto/coping saw and its been cutting a bit crooked. i have basic handtools currently. working with lexan if it matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted May 2, 2019 Report Share Posted May 2, 2019 I cut slots and drill all holes while the blank wood is still a rectangular block. This way it is easy to see if you are going wrong. I place a steel rule in the slot, this magnifies any errors. Not only is cutting easier, but if you totally screw up, then you haven't wasted any carving time. As for tools, I have no preferences, I usually use a band saw but it is out of commission. I can't find my dremel so that too is probably in storage, so at the moment, I am using a standard hacksaw. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted May 2, 2019 Report Share Posted May 2, 2019 4 hours ago, hfcbaits said: anyone know any solid ways of getting a good straight lip slot without a bandsaw? i've been using my dremel moto/coping saw and its been cutting a bit crooked. i have basic handtools currently. working with lexan if it matters. As mentioned above cut slots when blank is rectangular. A coping, fret, or preferably a Japanese dozuki or similar is what I would use in regards to typical hand tools. Western saws usually have too much tooth set. I use a band saw as just most efficient way for me to do it and I break down most of my stock with the band saw and table saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted May 2, 2019 Report Share Posted May 2, 2019 Make a wooden miter box, a little wider than your lure body, and cut different angled slots at different points. I made mine wide enough to be able to put my thumb against the blank to keep it firmly against the far side of the miter box. That way, you can position your rectangular bait blank at whichever lip angle you want, and cut the slot at the proper angle. You still have to pay attention to keep the slot bottom even, but you can use Dave's steel rule to check how square the cut is to the bait, and adjust accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datguy.dev Posted May 3, 2019 Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 What about a coping saw? i.e manual bandsaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfcbaits Posted May 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 ive used a coping saw, im not super great with it. but i just tried a japanese pull saw and it was pretty effective. for reference, i was already cutting it before i shaped it. but i just cant get good even cuts with a coping saw haha. thanks for the advice everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted May 3, 2019 Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 The Japanese pull saw is the best, giving the most control. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted May 3, 2019 Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 What type of Japanese pull saw are you using. The Dozuki or similar will give the best results do to the thinner kerf and tooth set. The Ryoba is frequently bought but would be poor choice and some of the American versions are more like a Kataba and less than ideal. You can make a magnetic guide block if needed if you have issues with not getting a straight cut. Can be as easy and making a small 90 from scrap wood along with a recessed magnet. Use a marking knife to get a scribe a line. Most dozuki (if not all) and then even some of the other technique specific saws have a toothless front section on the blade. It will fit cleanly into that line you made and then you can slide the guide up to your saw. You will be dead on to your scribe line this way and you will get 100 percent drift free straight cuts. It doesn't take long and muscle memory will take over (well if you cut a lot) and you can whip through shallow straight cuts on a crank without issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastman03 Posted May 3, 2019 Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 I've never done it, but I've read about guys that will stack a few blades of a metal cutting hack saw together to get the same thickness of the lip. Then you can cut it all in one shot with the top and bottom being parallel. Like others mentioned, probably all best when the blank is not shaped yet. Making a lip cutting miter box also sounds like a good plan to keep it consistent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfcbaits Posted May 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 im using a suizan saw. really small kerf. pretty good saw honestly. can anyone explain the miter box a little better? or have a reference picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfcbaits Posted May 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2019 ive used guide blocks for cutting joints but not a lip. that might be a good idea to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 Once you get the proper angle set on the guide block all good. Mitre box same concept just the blank will sit in it. So for example in the box below you could cut a 45 ° lip. Easy to make a box yourself and just cut a few lip angles. It doesn't take very long to just free hand the cuts however so the guide block or mitre box may be more trouble than what it is worth. Suzian is the brand of saw then they will make several different types of saws meant for different applications (not that it is important just want to be clear in case someone decides to try a Japanese saw). https://www.suizan.net/collections/handsaw?page=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfcbaits Posted May 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 thanks guys. will upload some project pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 I see no problem using a Dremel cutting disk (thin fiber reinforced) as long as you have a clear line to cut and a steady hand. If it cuts oversize, use epoxy paste or putty to install the lip and fill any gaps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfcbaits Posted May 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 i've tried the disk but i use pretty hard maple most of the time. so it doesn't go too well. just not efficient enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD_mudbug Posted May 5, 2019 Report Share Posted May 5, 2019 I agree with Mark on a miter saw. I picked up a cheap saw at Lowe's. They had a couple of different ones between $10-15 that came with a plastic miter box. The saw has an extra piece of steel folder over the back opposite the blade. This keeps the blade from flexing during the cut which was always a problem for me with hack saws, coping saws and small razor saws. I use another rectangular block of wood or clamps to pin the lure to the inside of the box. I like the idea of making your own narrow miter box. I might try even just making a wood side fence with pins sticking out of the bottom to fit inside the plastic miter box that way I could adjust the width by putting the pins in the holes in the box. Just remember to not cut through the miter box when you get to the bottom of your cut. The saw blade is wide so I think it would work well with guide blocks too. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-14-in-Blade-x-2-5-in-D-High-Impact-Polypropylene-Miter-Box/1000595083 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-14-in-Blade-x-2-25-in-D-Abs-Plastic-Miter-Box/50207359 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
