Poseidon Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 Can anyone help me? Are the lines in my stickos from bubbles? what's the best way to get rid of the bubbles without a gas chamber. Do I just wait for them to rise to the top? I'm a bit of a newb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 I would try holding pressure for a five to ten count, and using some kind of a spray, like Pam, before each shoot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poseidon Posted September 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 3 minutes ago, mark poulson said: I would try holding pressure for a five to ten count, and using some kind of a spray, like Pam, before each shoot. Holding pressure? On what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass-Boys Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 are you injecting or hand pouring ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 I assume you are doing open pour. Do you have see any bubbles in the plastisol before you pour? How far above the mold do you hold your container? Do you use spru extenders when pouring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poseidon Posted September 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 Hand pour, 3-5 inches, no extenders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallyc14 Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 If I had to take a guess I would say it’s micro bubbles in the plastisol. If you really don’t wanna spend the money on a degassing. Chamber the best way is to let it sit in the microwave for a couple of minutes after it’s been heated up . You may have to heat it up again. It’s the best way I found to do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted September 28, 2019 Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 3 hours ago, wallyc14 said: If I had to take a guess I would say it’s micro bubbles in the plastisol. If you really don’t wanna spend the money on a degassing. Chamber the best way is to let it sit in the microwave for a couple of minutes after it’s been heated up . You may have to heat it up again. It’s the best way I found to do it. Agreed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 In my experience, the marks are caused by pouring hot plastic in a cold mold. If it were bubbles you would have bubbles throughout the bait, not on the surface. Try warming your mold up and see what happens. You may have to vary your plastic temp too as well as vary how fast you're filling the mold. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bass-Boys Posted September 29, 2019 Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 I agree, could be cold cracks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McLuvin175 Posted September 30, 2019 Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 Open pour or hand injection? 2 piece aluminum mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poseidon Posted September 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 Hand pour 2 piece aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McLuvin175 Posted September 30, 2019 Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 If you are pouring out of a Pyrex or something like that into a two piece aluminum mold of that body design I think you will always have bubbles with or without a degasser. Those ribs in that stick bait will naturally trap air in a hand pour situation. I imagine some of them are being released and and becoming entrapped in the body as well as making the surface pock marks. Warming the mold, pouring hotter, and pouring slowly may help and reduce these bubbles. But in my opinion if you only hand pour and not hand inject that mold you will always have issues with air entrapment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted September 30, 2019 Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 I hand pour with a 2 piece aluminum. I use silicone cups and 1” copper tubes as spru extenders. The copper tubes are cheap from hdw store. You might give them a try. They have solved some problems for me. Maybe they would for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBuff Posted October 12, 2019 Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 By the photos those are cold cracks caused by not heating the mold first and you didn't hit the center of the gate when you first start pouring. Try heating the mold and pour until you get the pour stream and center consistent, once you have those down you can go with a cold mold. It's all about repetition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 On 9/30/2019 at 4:30 AM, McLuvin175 said: If you are pouring out of a Pyrex or something like that into a two piece aluminum mold of that body design I think you will always have bubbles with or without a degasser. Those ribs in that stick bait will naturally trap air in a hand pour situation. I imagine some of them are being released and and becoming entrapped in the body as well as making the surface pock marks. Warming the mold, pouring hotter, and pouring slowly may help and reduce these bubbles. But in my opinion if you only hand pour and not hand inject that mold you will always have issues with air entrapment. I had the same thing happen on a worm mold from BTS. The mold had horizontal and diagonal ribs. The diagonal ribs came out just fine as the air would rise and escape to the next rib and so on. The horizontal ribs would always trap air. Slowly pouring a very hot stream down the center of the hole helped a lot, but did not eliminate the problem. Hand injection molds are set up with the cavities horizontal with the ribs vertical eliminating the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBuff Posted October 15, 2019 Report Share Posted October 15, 2019 What appears to be bubbles is actually the contraction of the plastic when you drip or miss center. By design the "rings" are cut to prevent capturing bubbles, I've poured thousands and can honestly say I've never had an air bubble in a ring. One thing though if you fill too fast you may see some air trapped at the top just below the reservoir. It should take in a 5" about 5-6 seconds to fill the cavity, fill backup and top off the previous pour (eliminates dents). As I posted previously practice hitting the center and you'll see this go away with repetition. A tip for success is to get in the habit of always holding your pyrex at the same height and always start with a narrow stream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Posted October 15, 2019 Report Share Posted October 15, 2019 If you are having trouble centering the stream, find a Lee's pot to try pouring with. (Haha, some of us older guys aren't so steady these days.) 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
