johncaldwell Posted January 5, 2020 Report Share Posted January 5, 2020 Would dipping lures into enamel paint work anywhere close to epoxy as an initial coat, prior to paint? Curious to know if any one has any experiences with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 5, 2020 Report Share Posted January 5, 2020 Yes it will work in regards to a base coat for lures. Only consideration is your process in regards to painting and top coat selection and compatibility In regards to strength, toughness, etc.. no it isn't going to perform like the epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 5, 2020 Report Share Posted January 5, 2020 Nobody can know unless they try it. But I’m skeptical. Enamel doesn’t play well with solvent based topcoats. It also doesn’t dry as quickly as many other coatings. I just don’t see the advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 5, 2020 Report Share Posted January 5, 2020 22 minutes ago, BobP said: Nobody can know unless they try it. But I’m skeptical. Enamel doesn’t play well with solvent based topcoats. It also doesn’t dry as quickly as many other coatings. I just don’t see the advantage. In my experience from residential construction, enamel paints are very high on solids, so they might tend to just provide a film, instead of penetrating, unless you thin them. They really aren't designed to be a penetrating sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 5, 2020 Report Share Posted January 5, 2020 No advantage except meeting the quick and little effort method that is cheap. I wouldn't use it but then can say that about a lot of products some use. If wanting to dip Zinsser Bulls eye primers (shellac or water based) are a much better option. I used it for a short period on baits just didn't like the results (similar to the Poe's undercoat) but did allow for less finishing of the blank as filled in imperfections. I should have expanded on "only consideration" I mentioned to point out a lot of factors that can eat up a lot of time and be very frustrating. A few of them have been mentioned above. Nothing better than getting a bunch of lures done to find them bubble and peel away from the lure when the top coat is applied. Better yet it typically does't happen right away and all looks good so you end up top coating more lures during that time to find out 20 to 30 minutes later you have a bunch of jacked up baits. Now probably some expensive enamel products have been designed for this sort of application but not something you are going to have laying left over in your garage. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 I had a similar problem when I started painting. Clean blank, gloves, priming (either O white or clear base for ghost) very thin coats should solve the problem. Now I only spray with a fine head / needle assy often below 10 psi. These thin coats will preserve any surface details like scales and gills. It takes 3 seconds or less to cure a coat with a hair dryer set on high. I never used Dick Lites, but found that a few lures had the MCU soak beneath the paint and wrinkle it. Now I use 2 coats of E-tex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted January 6, 2020 Report Share Posted January 6, 2020 I start with Zinsser Bulls eye primers sprayed, then a quick sanding and then dip in enamel and let dry, then finish with createx paints and KBS coating, I am doing this to cedar top water. Wayne 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
