CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 I've been reading a lot of the posts on here the past few months as I tried to decide whether to start trying to make some baits of my own. I finally took the dive and decided to start by making some squarebills from PVC trimboard. So far I've only made two and I feel the baits themselves have come out pretty well for my first attempts. However, one area I decided to wait on was airbrushing, so the first two baits I have used finger nail polish on since my wife and daughter have plenty around. I just had a couple questions...first, I know I don't need to seal a PVC bait before painting, but is there an advantage to putting epoxy or sealer on it prior to painting? Also, one item I have not invested in yet, because I'm really only building one bait at a time right now, is a lure turner. So with regards to a topcoat, I'm looking for something that I can dip & hang. What is going to be a good clear topcoat for doing this? Any help is appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcromerangler Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 KBS diamond clear is the best dip and hang option. by far. use it for my balsa cranks. no problem... 3 coats. waiting around 2-3 hrs between coats. I use a blow dryer to make sure there are no air bubbles anywhere they hang. Just a light pass over the bait with air dryer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks for the suggestion. Do you purchase directly from KBS, somewhere online, or do they carry it at the big box stores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcromerangler Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 i buy directly from KBS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 A sealer is a good idea in my opinion with respect to creating a primer/base coat but definitely not needed. The PVC I have used does have some texture after sanding but very minimal and not an issue. Scratches much more noticeable so the sealer just helps to fill these areas and I think give a more consistent end product. A spray shellac or shellac (sanding sealer Zilnser dewaxed) for dipping is what I typically use as easy to apply, as both evaporates/cure quickly, easy to clean up, and good paint adhesion. Can just go straight to paint but it takes a lot more coats of paint through an airbrush compared to spraying on some shelllac from my experiences but far from a pro with the airbrush. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 What I have noticed is that the bait feels really smooth after I have finished sanding (with 150 grit paper), but when I go to paint it there's still some texture there, so the bait isn't completely smooth when painted. Do I need to go to an even finer grit paper, or simply use the sanding sealer to create the smooth finish? Also, with the sanding sealer, does it need to be brushed on or can the bait be dipped? I'm just always worried about seeing brush strokes or the bait not being coated evenly and it seems like by dipping it ensures both of those problems are fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcromerangler Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 i would dip for sure. Can always lightly sand away any uneven portions.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 I typically use spray shellac over dipping the sanding sealer. Dipping is quicker but really not a huge time saver unless we are talking a lot of baits. Sanding PVC can end up being a game of chasing your tail as PVC is soft and you can scratch it pretty easy depending on the paper and technique. Circular sanding motion, with 150 should be fine. Often just rubbing a finger with some wood putty over the bait followed by light sanding much easier way to go. Dipping in something like Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 primer will take care of deeper scratches and decrease sanding due to its thicker nature but add drying step. Building up a coat of shellac will take a few dips depending on what pound cut you are using. Brushing on a shellac sanding sealer is not an issue as water thin and won't leave brush marks unless you start dry brushing. Can simply just spray on a few layers of base coat also but seams about the slowest method to build up. Basically will boil down to what you prefer to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks for the info. It must be the particular PVC trimboard I am using but I have found that it cuts, carves, and sands much easier than the basswood I tried. There's no grain to deal with and the basswood seemed like the sander would take so much so quickly (80 grit sanding disc) that I wound up ruining my bait profile. I only tried one with basswood, so I'm sure if I tried again I could do better, but I've enjoyed working with the PVC so far. I'll try dipping with the shellac to see if that helps with the texturing and smoothness. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Just remember when sanding PVC board to use a mask also with Cedar, I know. I think 80 grit is to rough go up to a 120 with a disk cleaner they really work. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Just one more thing I make resin baits but PVC is about same. I dip my lures after sanding into acetone let set overnight then 2X rust-oleum primer let stay overnight then airbrush. Wayne 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks, will try 120 grit and see how it works. I've been using the 80 grit instead of the scroll saw to take the edges off and roughly shape the bait. Thanks for the pointer about wearing a mask. I have them but haven't been using one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Why dip in acetone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 I also use nail polish on my PVC trimboard baits sometimes, and there is no need for a sealer with that, since it's thicker and doesn't get absorbed. If I'm airbrushing my bait, then I finger on a couple of coats of runny super glue first, to harden the surface a little, and to keep any solvents still trapped in the PVC from bubbling up if I overheat it while drying the paint. PVC isn't without it's problems, but it's perfect of how I like to build and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 So that's why I got bubbles when I added a little heat with a hair dryer! I wondered what I was doing wrong. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 22 minutes ago, CoreyH said: So that's why I got bubbles when I added a little heat with a hair dryer! I wondered what I was doing wrong. Thanks! Yeah, that happened to me, too. That's why I started coating with the super glue. It's not perfect, but it helps. I've also found that heating the bait and then letting it cool back down before I coat it helps, too. I think it helps any left over solvents offgas. Lastly, I have begun using Rustoleum white primer (rattle can) as a sealer. It fills in the surface defects from sanding, and gives a smoother surface to paint over. I let it dry/cure overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Thanks for that info. I’ll try the white primer and see how that works for me. I appreciate the help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 1 minute ago, CoreyH said: Thanks for that info. I’ll try the white primer and see how that works for me. I appreciate the help. Good luck. Name you next 10 lber after me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly voodoo Posted January 28, 2020 Report Share Posted January 28, 2020 2 hours ago, CoreyH said: Why dip in acetone? I do the same process with my resin baits. Dipping in acetone is to clean the bait of dust, oil’s and any other residue. That way your paint sticks well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted January 28, 2020 Report Share Posted January 28, 2020 I also noticed that dipping in acetone seems to help smooth out the surface on resin lures anyway. Wayne 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2020 4 hours ago, mark poulson said: Good luck. Name you next 10 lber after me! Will do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2020 1 hour ago, ravenlures said: I also noticed that dipping in acetone seems to help smooth out the surface on resin lures anyway. Wayne Gotcha! I’ll have to try it and see. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted January 29, 2020 Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 (edited) Acetone or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) are both commonly used with PVC trim when doing exterior work to melt and close the open cells. It reduces the mold/mildew issues. Didn't even think about just dipping the baits in it. Typically I start a bait with the PVC trim and then within minutes think yep still hate the stuff and chuck the bait in a too be finished later drawer and put the trim back in the "rarely" used upper shelving storage area in the shop. I did start and finish two however while on Christmas vacation. . Edited January 29, 2020 by Travis 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoreyH Posted January 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2020 11 hours ago, Travis said: Typically I start a bait with the PVC trim and then within minutes think yep still hate the stuff and chuck the bait in a too be finished later drawer and put the trim back in the "rarely" used upper shelving storage area in the shop. Any particular reason why you hate using it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
