Trokar swim jig mold modification

[jmill]

As any one on here modified this mold to accept a wire bait keeper and if so have any pointers on how to do so. Thank you 

[cadman]

Yes,

    I just did the Trokar Pro Arky Jig.  File out about .013 on one side of the hook shank slot in the cavity and about .013 on the other side. This will keep the .026 dia wire keeper centered in the cavity. I have mine set up on the bottom. This works really well. You must have a hot mold and hot hooks and wire keepers to have everything fill all the way down to the bottom of the jigs. I am in the process of pouring them right now. I will take some pics and post here in about 3 or 4 hours. It was a request by one of my customers, as he did not like the  rounded collar keepers. Hope this helps.

Just remember  once you put your trailer on the jigs, and you decide to take it off, it will rip them open. However there is always Med-It which will fix that issue.

[jmill]

35 minutes ago, cadman said:

Yes,

    I just did the Trokar Pro Arky Jig.  File out about .013 on one side of the hook shank slot in the cavity and about .013 on the other side. This will keep the .026 dia wire keeper centered in the cavity. I have mine set up on the bottom. This works really well. You must have a hot mold and hot hooks and wire keepers to have everything fill all the way down to the bottom of the jigs. I am in the process of pouring them right now. I will take some pics and post here in about 3 or 4 hours. It was a request by one of my customers, as he did not like the  rounded collar keepers. Hope this helps.

Just remember  once you put your trailer on the jigs, and you decide to take it off, it will rip them open. However there is always Med-It which will fix that issue.

Thank you. Did you do this with a dremel or a cnc machine?

[cadman]

Ok , so here is the rest of the info and some pics. First of all take a look at the pic of the jig. If this is what you are after read on. If not then I did not understand what you are looking for. On the pic of the jig, you can put that keeper on the top side of the jig or like I have it on the bottom side. I tried it and it really holds plastic. The wire keeper is even more beneficial when the jig is painted, because the plastic trailers have a tendency to want to slide off of a painted jig, since the paint is slippery especially when wet.

   Now onto the mold. I only modified the 1/2 oz cavity and I only modified 1/2 of a mold side. Reason being if you modify both sides, the keeper may be too loose and it may want to slip down while pouring. This still may be the case with one side modified, however, you can put a piece of masking tape to hold the keeper in place while you pour. When the you pour the jig, the masking tape will stay on the mold and the jig will release. If you look closely on the 1/2 oz cavity all the way at the bottom where the hook shank exits the mold you will see a shiny spot. That is the material I too out (.013 per side) of the mold to make room for the wire keeper. Now there is no need to get fancy here.  No CNC and definitely no Dremel. I took a small hobby file and filed out the groove to the right and to the left. These are aluminum cast molds, and a small file will cut quickly. Now if you want to use a Dremel go ahead, but they have a tendency to cut fast and if you make a mistake and cut too much  well there you go. Just take your time about 10-15 minutes with a small file, put your hook in and your keeper, check fit to see if it closes and there you go. I will tell you the when you pour these, the lead wants to hang up by the ringed collars and not completely pour. Just get your mold hot, put your hooks and keepers on a plate under a 100 watt bulb and have at it. All my pours came out flawlessly.  If you have any other questions ask away. Good luck.

[kingmfg]

Any advice on adding a screwlock

[jmill]

4 hours ago, cadman said:

Ok , so here is the rest of the info and some pics. First of all take a look at the pic of the jig. If this is what you are after read on. If not then I did not understand what you are looking for. On the pic of the jig, you can put that keeper on the top side of the jig or like I have it on the bottom side. I tried it and it really holds plastic. The wire keeper is even more beneficial when the jig is painted, because the plastic trailers have a tendency to want to slide off of a painted jig, since the paint is slippery especially when wet.

   Now onto the mold. I only modified the 1/2 oz cavity and I only modified 1/2 of a mold side. Reason being if you modify both sides, the keeper may be too loose and it may want to slip down while pouring. This still may be the case with one side modified, however, you can put a piece of masking tape to hold the keeper in place while you pour. When the you pour the jig, the masking tape will stay on the mold and the jig will release. If you look closely on the 1/2 oz cavity all the way at the bottom where the hook shank exits the mold you will see a shiny spot. That is the material I too out (.013 per side) of the mold to make room for the wire keeper. Now there is no need to get fancy here.  No CNC and definitely no Dremel. I took a small hobby file and filed out the groove to the right and to the left. These are aluminum cast molds, and a small file will cut quickly. Now if you want to use a Dremel go ahead, but they have a tendency to cut fast and if you make a mistake and cut too much  well there you go. Just take your time about 10-15 minutes with a small file, put your hook in and your keeper, check fit to see if it closes and there you go. I will tell you the when you pour these, the lead wants to hang up by the ringed collars and not completely pour. Just get your mold hot, put your hooks and keepers on a plate under a 100 watt bulb and have at it. All my pours came out flawlessly.  If you have any other questions ask away. Good luck.

Thank you this will help tremendously