Inline spinner, blades won't spin

[LionsFanCharlie]

Hello, rookie at rigging inline spinners here. Problem is the blades didn't spin when I field tested my creations. Tried clevis/no clevis, beads in front of and behind the clevis different size beads as well. Not sure which way to go at this point, need to start learning the science behind the lure. Any help will be appreciated..... Thanks in advance!

[cadman]

Are you sure you have the correct clevis size and is the blade on correctly (cupped side to the back)?

[LionsFanCharlie]

I'll admit that I'm not sure of the blade size to body weight ratio. I'm using standard clevis #3 with a #3 Colorado blade and/or a #3 Willow blade. The lure body is molded lead at 1/8 oz approx 3/4" long. But I am sure that the blade direction is correct.

[toadfrog]

[toadfrog]

The bottom pic has one of the few blades that do not need a clevis. It is almost infallible. Unless specified by someone I almost always use a folded clevis.

[LionsFanCharlie]

What size blades are those? #4? I've heard that folded clevises perform more consistent than standard and will probably invest in them when I prove out the design....

[mark poulson]

I think you may need to add a couple of spacer beads behind the clevis so your blade can spin more freely.

[toadfrog]

Yep #4 on second pic . 3.5 on first pic. I've had fewer issues with folded clevis . No issues on the inline blade . Amother often overlooked blade is the June bug blade and various prop type blades. Prop blades are more common on bait rigs .

 

[Hillbilly voodoo]

2 hours ago, mark poulson said:

I think you may need to add a couple of spacer beads behind the clevis so your blade can spin more freely.

What Mark said

you need a clevis with those blades. You need smaller beads to space the blade away from the larger bead. The large bead is robbing the spin

the spinner in the top pic toadfrog posted gives and example on what you need to do. He used the smaller beads to space the blade away from the bell body

 

[LionsFanCharlie]

Here is what I came up with today. The small #3 willow blade didn't spin at all. The colorado blade kinda spun, maybe better if it was bigger. The size #4 willow blade spun well. There was a similarity between the colorado and large willow, I couldn't really tell if it was the blade spinning or the entire lure....

[LionsFanCharlie]

I realize I'm doing this in an unconventional manner. I'm just trying to challenge myself to create something original and unique. In the end I may just go with the flow, and do this the proven way....

[Hillbilly voodoo]

So even reeling at high speed no spin?

are they riding on a steep angle hook down?

willow leaf in lines can be picky unless they are a wide version 

[LionsFanCharlie]

Yeah, high speed reeling and against heavy river current, colorado kinda spun big willow spun well but on those 2 I couldn't tell if it was just the blade or if the entire bait was spinning. The small willow had no spin at all. They all looked really close to horizontal retrieve.

[Hillbilly voodoo]

Been a long time since I have made in lines that small but if I remember correctly if your clevis is too large you are going to have issues. Here is a screenshot of a chart to match sizes

at this moment the clevis is the last issue I can think of 
 

 

[LionsFanCharlie]

Thanks for the chart!! Where can I find the full version of that? I ordered some #4 folded clevises, #4 colorado & french blades. Along with some #5 inline blades. The clevises on these lures are #3 easy spins so I don't think they're too big. I think from everyone here and other info I found around the net that my blades were too small and incorrectly spaced. I'd like to take a second and thank you guys so much for your assistance here, this issue has plagued me for a week or so now.... Any other reference charts or technical information would be awesome!

[Hillbilly voodoo]

The chart is from the website of one of the lure part suppliers I use here in Canada. Names in the screen shot. You will find the chart in the clevis section

[smalljaw]

You are using the wrong kind of beads behind the clevis, that is one problem. The beads behind the clevis aren't just a spacer, they act as a bearing for the clevis to spin on. The second part of the problem is your design, you have the weight way to far behind the blade placement. 

[LionsFanCharlie]

Both true smalljaw, I was trying to do this with stuff I have laying around from my other spinnerbaits and my wife's craft supplies.... I have solid brass beads,  appropriately sized blades and folded clevises, along with a do-it inline mold on the way from LPO. Thanks for all the input guys! I'll post a pic when I get one made.

[Hillbilly voodoo]

2 hours ago, smalljaw said:

You are using the wrong kind of beads behind the clevis, that is one problem. The beads behind the clevis aren't just a spacer, they act as a bearing for the clevis to spin on. The second part of the problem is your design, you have the weight way to far behind the blade placement. 

Good catch I completely missed those beads have a flat top and bottom 

[kevin24018]

I've made the exact same spinner only changing one thing at a time to see if I can isolate the issue as to why one won't spin, bottom line, I have no freakin idea.  Changing the number or size of the beads didn't matter.  My only guess is it's the blade itself.  In my frustration I've bent or otherwise "modified" the blade to get it to spin, sometime it worked sometimes not.  Eventually I would just cut the wire and reuse the components.

I haven't put all of these in the water yet, but the ones with hooks do work.

 

[LionsFanCharlie]

Thanks Kevin, those look great. Are those metal beads directly before and after the clevises?

[kevin24018]

5 hours ago, LionsFanCharlie said:

Thanks Kevin, those look great. Are those metal beads directly before and after the clevises?

yes they are metal (spacer beads)  Though I may try something different like coiling some wire where the beads are.  My thought is the less surface area the less friction, however it could be that I am at a point of diminishing returns, it doesn't/won't matter.  Anything worth engineering is worth OVER engineering haha

[gaspumper]

I would make the shaft a wee bit longer at least 1/4 to 3/8 longer

 

[kevin24018]

the wire I use, it's on amazon, very springy so be careful taking it off the roll or the whole thing will unravel very quickly(Aircraft Tool Supply Safety Lock Wire (.032))

I also use a Worth Wire Forming Tool and a variety of loop forming pliers, cutters etc

 

[Apdriver]

There are a lot of guys that have forgotten more about making inlines than I know and some of those have already made a few suggestions in this thread. One thing that hasn’t been discussed and  one of the elements or variables on an in-line is the type of blade used. I noticed Kevin has used quite a few Colorado blades. On an in-line, a Colorado doesn’t spin well. The French blade or Indiana blade is a much better choice for inlines with a clevis. As suggested, they need to be sized correctly. Please look at Toadfrogs first post with the pics of his inlines. Notice how the end of his French blades would come about to the end of the brass weight on the in-line. That’s sized correctly. Now, I’m not saying you can’t make an in-line with just wire and beads because you can. I’ve had success using an Indiana blade and no weight.