Inline spinner, blades won't spin

[kevin24018]

9 hours ago, Apdriver said:

There are a lot of guys that have forgotten more about making inlines than I know and some of those have already made a few suggestions in this thread. One thing that hasn’t been discussed and  one of the elements or variables on an in-line is the type of blade used. I noticed Kevin has used quite a few Colorado blades. On an in-line, a Colorado doesn’t spin well. The French blade or Indiana blade is a much better choice for inlines with a clevis. As suggested, they need to be sized correctly. Please look at Toadfrogs first post with the pics of his inlines. Notice how the end of his French blades would come about to the end of the brass weight on the in-line. That’s sized correctly. Now, I’m not saying you can’t make an in-line with just wire and beads because you can. I’ve had success using an Indiana blade and no weight.

I've got some other blade styles coming, basically I used what I had.  The larger size colorado blades I have not had any issues with, the smaller ones I've had some difficulty getting them to spin but I couldn't really narrow down the reason.  The panther martin I heard are practically never fail, though they don't lay nice and flat like clevis attached blades will.  They should be coming in a couple of days and hopefully I'll get a chance just to try them out and see if I can tell any difference.

[A Milton]

On 4/2/2020 at 2:14 AM, kevin24018 said:

I've got some other blade styles coming, basically I used what I had.  The larger size colorado blades I have not had any issues with, the smaller ones I've had some difficulty getting them to spin but I couldn't really narrow down the reason.  The panther martin I heard are practically never fail, though they don't lay nice and flat like clevis attached blades will.  They should be coming in a couple of days and hopefully I'll get a chance just to try them out and see if I can tell any difference.

Hi, greetings from Masterton, New Zealand.  I've had a lot of success with size 2 and size 3 colorado blades and recently got some size 1 blades to try making some tiny dressed spinners but am having trouble getting them to spin. I'm wondering if it is a weight issue? The last ones I trialed had 2 tungsten beads for weight, balanced out along the shaft with a glass bead in between. They spin but not well.  Making a couple to trial now with only a single tungsten bead but getting almost too light to cast effectively. I was wondering if you worked out a solution with your ones Kevin?

[A Milton]

Tungsten beads are 0.75g each so 1.5g total currently.

 

[mark poulson]

On 4/1/2020 at 6:14 AM, kevin24018 said:

I've got some other blade styles coming, basically I used what I had.  The larger size colorado blades I have not had any issues with, the smaller ones I've had some difficulty getting them to spin but I couldn't really narrow down the reason.  The panther martin I heard are practically never fail, though they don't lay nice and flat like clevis attached blades will.  They should be coming in a couple of days and hopefully I'll get a chance just to try them out and see if I can tell any difference.

If you've found that the larger blades work better, I'd use that as a starting point in trying to figure out how to get the smaller ones to work.  I'd look at the ratio of blade length to bait length, distance from back end of blade to lure body, wire diameter, rear treble size, basically every variable, and change them one at a time until I got something that worked.  Fortunately you can salvage and reuse just about everything except the wire, so do some experimenting in the bathtub, but not while you're in it.  Hahaha

[Big Epp]

Question, is there a way to keep the whole spinner from spinning? I've got some that work well, but I'm worried about line twists. 

[Hillbilly voodoo]

49 minutes ago, Big Epp said:

Question, is there a way to keep the whole spinner from spinning? I've got some that work well, but I'm worried about line twists. 

Using a swivel is the only answer I know 

[azsouth]

3 hours ago, Big Epp said:

Question, is there a way to keep the whole spinner from spinning? I've got some that work well, but I'm worried about line twists. 

you can use a bend in the front of the spinner and it will act like a keel.

[Big Epp]

Good ideas. I'm using a clevis, I wonder if it was larger (or ny wire smaller) the blade would spin more freely.

[toadfrog]

I use folded clevises only on inline spinners . If you put a bead above the clevis it can be plastic . Below the clevis I use a metal bead to act as a bearing . The metal won't wear and hang like a plastic one can . Part of your lure body spin can come from restriction on the blade being able to turn.

 

[otsismi]

On 7/4/2021 at 2:17 AM, A Milton said:

Hi, greetings from Masterton, New Zealand.  I've had a lot of success with size 2 and size 3 colorado blades and recently got some size 1 blades to try making some tiny dressed spinners but am having trouble getting them to spin. I'm wondering if it is a weight issue? The last ones I trialed had 2 tungsten beads for weight, balanced out along the shaft with a glass bead in between. They spin but not well.  Making a couple to trial now with only a single tungsten bead but getting almost too light to cast effectively. I was wondering if you worked out a solution with your ones Kevin?

I'm trying to do the same thing and I fear that the issue is that there aren't small enough clevises available for these small blades. The smallest size available, Size 1, I believe are too big for Size 1 blades. I've gotten some small colorados to spin, but it's really hit or miss. 

[mark poulson]

You might try flattening the clevis a bit, so the blade rotates tighter to the shaft.  I'm guessing you can bend the ends back to the right angle and still have room for the blade to swing.

[toadfrog]

Have you got a pic of one made up . When you cast it do you just start reeling when it hits the water? Because if you do a lot of in lines don't get going by doing that . As it sinks pop the rod tip . This causes the blade to move farther from the shaft. Then real quickly . You should feel resistance as the blade spins. After that you can slow your retrieve to the desired speed and the blade should continue to spin.

[otsismi]

On 8/25/2021 at 1:15 AM, toadfrog said:

Have you got a pic of one made up . When you cast it do you just start reeling when it hits the water? Because if you do a lot of in lines don't get going by doing that . As it sinks pop the rod tip . This causes the blade to move farther from the shaft. Then real quickly . You should feel resistance as the blade spins. After that you can slow your retrieve to the desired speed and the blade should continue to spin.

Here you go. None of them spin. Assorted blades and weights and bearings. None of them spin even with the rod tip trick. 

[azsouth]

A couple of things stand out right off the bat. 

1. your blades are fighting each other...clevis on top of clevis I have never got it to work. scrap the double blade for now.

2.add 2 beads minimum for ease of blades turning

3. true inline blades have a whole in them and do not require a clevis. 

4. your wrap at the bottom of your spinner is not sufficient... at least 2 full wraps. 

so ditch the double blades for now, always use at least 2 beads and always at least 2 full wraps top and bottom.

[azsouth]

In the future if you are going with a double blade design, the clevis will have to be separated to allow for clearance depending on blade size and style.

[otsismi]

27 minutes ago, azsouth said:

In the future if you are going with a double blade design, the clevis will have to be separated to allow for clearance depending on blade size and style.

What about the Mepps Agila? They are stacked. I've gotten double blades to work really well on some cheap french blades but that is the only blade I've gotten it to work on.

[azsouth]

AGAIN YOU SHOULD WALK BEFORE YOU RUN, different blades require different spacing to allow flow without disrupting the other blades flow....I am not saying it can't be done but you need to build some regular blades that actually work before you take on more complex spinners.

I would suggest that you use the search tab above and see the different path and angle that each blade uses.

Just because someone else made it work does not insure that you can right out of the gate.

[toadfrog]

OTSISMI is correct . There is a double clevis designed for running 2 blades. I've been out of the business so long I can't remember who makes it. But it would be Hagen's or Lakeland I think.

[mark poulson]

On 9/1/2021 at 7:04 PM, toadfrog said:

OTSISMI is correct . There is a double clevis designed for running 2 blades. I've been out of the business so long I can't remember who makes it. But it would be Hagen's or Lakeland I think.

I think LPO has them.

[toadfrog]

I was thinking if someone tries to stack a Colorado style blade it might be effective only if it was a deep cup blade. The operative word is might. I've made inlines for a long time but I never had a need to use one with double blades . 

[JD_mudbug]

LPO and Jann's have the double clevis. They are quite large and thick in gauge. I have some and they are the size of two size 6 clevises attached end to end. They are made for larger in-lines typically size 5 blades and up. I have gotten two size 4 French blades to spin on them. I have not tried anything smaller on them because the gauge is thick. They are just a hair under 3/4" long (between 11/16 and 3/4) which will add a lot of length to a small spinner. I have not seen a double clevis in a smaller size for sale.

https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Double-Clevises?quantity=1&keywords=clevis&page=1

https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/lure-clevises/320915.aspx

Stacked or nested clevises work better with larger blades. You can get the easier-to-spin French blades to work on a stacked set up in smaller sizes. I have size 3 French blades from LPO stacked and they work. I have a stacked size 4 swing blade spinner and a stacked size 5 Colorado and that spin fine. The Colorado spinner is two of of the flat Colorado blades. I mostly use 2 blades on larger spinners for bass/pike/musky. I have not tried smaller stacked blades.

 

 

[Big Epp]

I have been able to stack French blades as well, but not had the same success with Indiana or Colorado. This one uses either size 1 or 2 French blades. I had one with 2 size 1 Colorado blades that would spin some if I bounced them like @toadfrogsaid. The one I made with 2 size 1 Colorado blades wouldn't spinn no matter how many beads I put under it. I'm going to try it again with stacked French blades.

I've used the double clevis from LPO. They are sized well for muskie spinners, but nothing smaller than that. I might try them with some size 4 blades for bass, but they'll probably look silly. Blade style makes a big difference there too though. I tried one with double fluted Indiana blades (size 7 I think) and couldn't get it to spin no matter what I tried. Must be a physiological impossibility.

Also, I saw a guy makes a clevis holder that looks sort of like .22 brassica slots cut on both sides. I don't have a picture though, so you'll have to use your imagination.

[Big Epp]

@otsismi, you and I both used the solid metal clevises and Colorado blades, whereas the Mepps pictured uses a folded clevis and French blades. I added more beads with a smaller weight (1/16th oz.), but mine still didn't spin. Maybe there's something to that. I'll try double French blades soon and report back.

[Phil UK]

I'm a little late to this discussion, but might be able to add something. What I noticed in Mepps and Blue Fox Vibrax lures, which both spin extremely well, is that they don't use beads below the blade - they use irregular-shaped jewellery spacers. When I used these rather than beads, I found my blades spun perfectly.

Perhaps the irregular shapes beneath the blade disrupt the flow of water and kick the blade out, helping it to spin better, whereas beads do not. I use a variety of saucer and cone-shaped spacers, which can be obtained very cheaply on eBay.